How big of a firebox should I upgrade to?

[FPX Dude]

Looks great on the break-in, can't wait to hear how you luv da' heat!

 

[weee123]

Dude, you are spouting a bunch of crap that you know little about.

Oh believe me I know he has no idea what he’s talking about with these stoves. I’m just trying to be polite on this public forum and not tell him off since he has no idea of my heating needs that I’ve already described earlier in said thread.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Oh believe me I know he has no idea what he’s talking about with these stoves. I’m just trying to be polite on this public forum and not tell him off since he has no idea of my heating needs that I’ve already described earlier in said thread.

Congrats on the new stove, I believe you will be satisfied. Englander used to be a little independent stove company that was acquired by a big family owned Canadian stove company (SBI). My experience with my SBI stoves and the company has been excellent. I regularly get 12 hr burns in my 2.4 cubic ft stove using a mix of PA hardwoods and softwoods.

Ignore that guy from CO whose poo pooing tube stoves. He's likely burning CO softwoods, and he honestly doesn't know what he's talking about.

Nos Marques

www.sbi-international.com

 

[weee123]

The quality on this new englander I’m finding is it seems to be just as solidly built as my 30 year old osburn and in some areas more solidly built.

Here it is all installed, also some pics of the shop barrel burner to freak some people out😉 inside bottom is lined with firebrick to protect it from burn through.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

The quality on this new englander I’m finding is it seems to be just as solidly built as my 30 year old osburn and in some areas more solidly built.

Here it is all installed, also some pics of the shop barrel burner to freak some people out😉 inside bottom is lined with firebrick to protect it from burn through.

View attachment 306683 View attachment 306684

Beauty of a setup and your new stove fits right in. Another bonus, you'll find tons of good threads on here about the little details that you'll want to know about the 30nc , as you figure out how to get it tuned in.

 

[TomMcDonald]

Congrats on the new stove, I believe you will be satisfied. Englander used to be a little independent stove company that was acquired by a big family owned Canadian stove company (SBI). My experience with my SBI stoves and the company has been excellent. I regularly get 12 hr burns in my 2.4 cubic ft stove using a mix of PA hardwoods and softwoods.

Ignore that guy from CO whose poo pooing tube stoves. He's likely burning CO softwoods, and he honestly doesn't know what he's talking about.

Nos Marques

www.sbi-international.com

What make and model is your stove? I'm looking for a new one and 12 hour burn times sound very attractive to me.
Thanks.

 

[weee123]

Well, since the OP is already burning the oily rags, I think it would be better to burn them in a secondary stove to catch more pollutants, instead of in an oil-drum rig. 😏

Well when I say oily rags, they are more like cloth paper towels that have oil soaked in em. They make beautiful fire starters. Would never burn them in my house though for obvious reasons. I also wouldn’t suggest anyone else do this.

But I usually toss big splits and scrap lumber that wouldn’t fit in the actual stove inside the barrel burner as that has the ability to fit any size piece of wood I would consider burning in it, which is why I plan to stick with it out there.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

What make and model is your stove? I'm looking for a new one and 12 hour burn times sound very attractive to me.
Thanks.

It's a Flame Energy 1.9i. It's functionally identical to the Drolet 1800i.

SBI acquired Flame Energy, then changed Flame Energy stoves to be built on the same 2.4 cu ft engine as Drolet, Century, Enerzone, Osbourn, etc. Then they retired the Flame Energy brand. I suspect they'll do the same thing with Englander in the coming years. It's their business model.

Anyway, think Drolet 1800. Mine required some tweaking to get the 12 hr. burn times. Just some simple blocking of the air intakes with some sheet metal. If you end up with one of these SBI stoves, and want some help tuning it in, just ping me and I can share some experience.

 

[TomMcDonald]

It's a Flame Energy 1.9i. It's functionally identical to the Drolet 1800i.

SBI acquired Flame Energy, then changed Flame Energy stoves to be built on the same 2.4 cu ft engine as Drolet, Century, Enerzone, Osbourn, etc. Then they retired the Flame Energy brand. I suspect they'll do the same thing with Englander in the coming years. It's their business model.

Anyway, think Drolet 1800. Mine required some tweaking to get the 12 hr. burn times. Just some simple blocking of the air intakes with some sheet metal. If you end up with one of these SBI stoves, and want some help tuning it in, just ping me and I can share some experience.

Thanks. Been looking at the 1800. What's the longest log you can fit in north south?

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Thanks. Been looking at the 1800. What's the longest log you can fit in north south?

You can fit 16" n/s. I cut all mine to 15.5" to avoid nasty surprises when loading a hot stove at 3 am, you know what I mean.

My heat output and burn times are not impacted by that missing 1/2 inch.

N/S loading is necessary if you want to break the 8 hrs. you can coax out of an E/W load.

 

[mdocod]

Ignore that guy from CO whose poo pooing tube stoves. He's likely burning CO softwoods, and he honestly doesn't know what he's talking about.

Nos Marques

www.sbi-international.com

Good job reading what I said.

 

[mdocod]

It's a Flame Energy 1.9i. It's functionally identical to the Drolet 1800i.

SBI acquired Flame Energy, then changed Flame Energy stoves to be built on the same 2.4 cu ft engine as Drolet, Century, Enerzone, Osbourn, etc. Then they retired the Flame Energy brand. I suspect they'll do the same thing with Englander in the coming years. It's their business model.

Anyway, think Drolet 1800. Mine required some tweaking to get the 12 hr. burn times. Just some simple blocking of the air intakes with some sheet metal. If you end up with one of these SBI stoves, and want some help tuning it in, just ping me and I can share some experience.

So the default configuration of this secondary-only-combustion stove didn't produce super long burns until the minimum air setting was modified. There should be a line of clipboard warriors here to tell you why you shouldn't do that, but they can't in this thread, because they're all backing a different narrative right now.

Sort of the point I have been making about secondary-only combustion stoves. Their factory minimum burn rate is often set pretty fast. Common on many stoves like this for good reason. It makes them burn cleaner and more efficient. We can probably make a huge list of similar looking steel stoves that can't be throttled down very far. The Englander appears to be a rare exception to the norm among stoves like this unless they are modified, but it does sacrifice efficiency and emissions to get there as evidenced by test results.

 

[mdocod]

Oh believe me I know he has no idea what he’s talking about with these stoves. I’m just trying to be polite on this public forum and not tell him off since he has no idea of my heating needs that I’ve already described earlier in said thread.

The heating needs you described were longer burn cycles and more BTU's.

The stove you bought, will give you one or the other, but not both. It doesn't matter through, I didn't chime in till after you had already bought it so it doesn't matter what I say. Some people get very defensive about their purchase decisions.

I'll happily list everything stupid about the stoves I own. Will you?

 

[begreen]

Go back and do some homework. Most stoves or their flue systems do not need modification unless the draft strength is out of specification. None are secondary only. They are at least primary and secondary combustion stoves.

 

[begreen]

The heating needs you described were longer burn cycles and more BTU's.

The stove you bought, will give you one or the other, but not both.

The need for heat varies with the heat loss of the house depending on outdoor conditions, as it does with any stove configuration. His stove can deal with both with proper user operation.

 

[Woody Stover]

There should be a line of clipboard warriors here to tell you why you shouldn't do that,

I'd try a flue damper or two to slow things down a bit, before I'd mess with how the stove is engineered..

 

[begreen]

I'd try a flue damper or two to slow things down a bit, before I'd mess with how the stove is engineered..

I'm not opposed to blocking the boost air if the draft is over spec. It is mostly to assist in starting a fire which is not needed if the draft is strong and the wood is dry. But this is just a deflection and probably not relevant to the OP's installation.

 

[Woody Stover]

I think a flue damper would still run the stove within the draft range it's designed for, especially if the 21' chimney is lined all the way up.
And it's apparently the easy-breathing stove ever...it only required 15" of chimney! 😲😉

 

[bholler]

So the default configuration of this secondary-only-combustion stove didn't produce super long burns until the minimum air setting was modified. There should be a line of clipboard warriors here to tell you why you shouldn't do that, but they can't in this thread, because they're all backing a different narrative right now.

Sort of the point I have been making about secondary-only combustion stoves. Their factory minimum burn rate is often set pretty fast. Common on many stoves like this for good reason. It makes them burn cleaner and more efficient. We can probably make a huge list of similar looking steel stoves that can't be throttled down very far. The Englander appears to be a rare exception to the norm among stoves like this unless they are modified, but it does sacrifice efficiency and emissions to get there as evidenced by test results.

He had to modify things because his draft greatly exceeded the specified draft. Not because of the design of the stove.

 

[mdocod]

Go back and do some homework. Most stoves or their flue systems do not need modification unless the draft strength is out of specification. None are secondary only. They are at least primary and secondary combustion stoves.

You knew what I meant. You're trolling.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

The heating needs you described were longer burn cycles and more BTU's.

The stove you bought, will give you one or the other, but not both. It doesn't matter through, I didn't chime in till after you had already bought it so it doesn't matter what I say. Some people get very defensive about their purchase decisions.

I'll happily list everything stupid about the stoves I own. Will you?

I had a problem going through wood way too fast (6 hrs), and much of my heat was going up the chimney. This was caused by too much draft. The company will send you little steel disks with small holes that look like washers to insert into the tubes to slow airflow, if you call them and tell them you have overdraft issues. Rather than this, I just used some sheet metal to partially block off the air intakes. The sheet metal is a baking sheet wedged against the side of the stove where the air intakes are. No actual physical modification required. Just slowing the air to account for how my setup has more draft than the lab testing environment.

Also, I burn clean and long. The clean part is very important to me. My neighbors don't even know I have a fire, except for a very short period of smoking at reload time. Dry wood, a good working knowledge of how the stove operates, and paying attention for the first 30 minutes or so, gets me clean 12 hr burns that easily relight on coals upon reloading.

Nobody is trolling you. You are saying chit that ain't right, and you are being corrected. These guys take a lot of pride in keeping misinformation in check on here, and you are the one providing the misinformation.

 

[mdocod]

I had a problem going through wood way too fast (6 hrs), and much of my heat was going up the chimney. This was caused by too much draft. The company will send you little steel disks with small holes that look like washers to insert into the tubes to slow airflow, if you call them and tell them you have overdraft issues. Rather than this, I just used some sheet metal to partially block off the air intakes. The sheet metal is a baking sheet wedged against the side of the stove where the air intakes are. No actual physical modification required. Just slowing the air to account for how my setup has more draft than the lab testing environment.

Also, I burn clean and long. The clean part is very important to me. My neighbors don't even know I have a fire, except for a very short period of smoking at reload time. Dry wood, a good working knowledge of how the stove operates, and paying attention for the first 30 minutes or so, gets me clean 12 hr burns that easily relight on coals upon reloading.

Nobody is trolling you. You are saying chit that ain't right, and you are being corrected. These guys take a lot of pride in keeping misinformation in check on here, and you are the one providing the misinformation.

Aside from my initial mischaracterization and rapid correction of that mischaracterization of the Englander, in assuming its combustion rate would be tuned from the factory to be like the laundry list of other stoves built in a similar way, including yours, and the Osburn the OP has, and the AW2520E that I have, and so many more like these, what specific "misinformation" is needing to be corrected here? Can you quote something I've said here that is clearly wrong, because there's no actual "correction" taking place in this thread, there's just a bunch of "don't listen to the moron from Colorado.." That's how CNN handles misinformation. ANYBODY can do better than that but nobody here actually is.

I think the real problem here, is that everyone in this thread wanted the Englander to be the answer to the problem, but in reality, if the OP had spent his money on insulation/sealing up the house, and then perhaps done a modification to his stove system similar to the way you did yours, he'd probably be able to get his 8+ hour burn cycles on the smaller stove, use less wood, and be in better shape for the long haul. It's no fun to have someone point this out after the fact, so it's all just going to go in the "misinformation" bin and really seal it in there with a bunch of empty insults.

 

[weee123]

Aside from my initial mischaracterization and rapid correction of that mischaracterization of the Englander, in assuming its combustion rate would be tuned from the factory to be like the laundry list of other stoves built in a similar way, including yours, and the Osburn the OP has, and the AW2520E that I have, and so many more like these, what specific "misinformation" is needing to be corrected here? Can you quote something I've said here that is clearly wrong, because there's no actual "correction" taking place in this thread, there's just a bunch of "don't listen to the moron from Colorado.." That's how CNN handles misinformation. ANYBODY can do better than that but nobody here actually is.

I think the real problem here, is that everyone in this thread wanted the Englander to be the answer to the problem, but in reality, if the OP had spent his money on insulation/sealing up the house, and then perhaps done a modification to his stove system similar to the way you did yours, he'd probably be able to get his 8+ hour burn cycles on the smaller stove, use less wood, and be in better shape for the long haul. It's no fun to have someone point this out after the fact, so it's all just going to go in the "misinformation" bin and really seal it in there with a bunch of empty insults.

I have tried to modify my stove like his. It only did so much. I was barely able to eek out an overnight burn on a mild night. Not even close to what I need to last until I get home from work.

The fact of the matter is, is that the Osburn was a 30 year old stove, and stove tech has come a long way since then. It was a pita for me to deal with trying to load in N/S, as it was an E/W loading stove, to get the heat and longer burn times. Also any stove will give you one or the other in terms of longer burn time vs BTU’s, including cat stoves. Sure I can get a 30 hour burn out of BK30 but it won’t give me the heat I need.

As for I should’ve insulated, I like the fact that my bottom half walls are cold as was stated earlier in the thread, it greatly helps during the summer with the A/C costs. It also feels great coming from working outside all day to a nice cold downstairs in the summer.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Aside from my initial mischaracterization and rapid correction of that mischaracterization of the Englander, in assuming its combustion rate would be tuned from the factory to be like the laundry list of other stoves built in a similar way, including yours, and the Osburn the OP has, and the AW2520E that I have, and so many more like these, what specific "misinformation" is needing to be corrected here? Can you quote something I've said here that is clearly wrong, because there's no actual "correction" taking place in this thread, there's just a bunch of "don't listen to the moron from Colorado.." That's how CNN handles misinformation. ANYBODY can do better than that but nobody here actually is.

I think the real problem here, is that everyone in this thread wanted the Englander to be the answer to the problem, but in reality, if the OP had spent his money on insulation/sealing up the house, and then perhaps done a modification to his stove system similar to the way you did yours, he'd probably be able to get his 8+ hour burn cycles on the smaller stove, use less wood, and be in better shape for the long haul. It's no fun to have someone point this out after the fact, so it's all just going to go in the "misinformation" bin and really seal it in there with a bunch of empty insults.

Take note at 1:05, and I think it will all come into focus for you.

 

[mdocod]

I have tried to modify my stove like his. It only did so much. I was barely able to eek out an overnight burn on a mild night. Not even close to what I need to last until I get home from work.

The fact of the matter is, is that the Osburn was a 30 year old stove, and stove tech has come a long way since then. It was a pita for me to deal with trying to load in N/S, as it was an E/W loading stove, to get the heat and longer burn times. Also any stove will give you one or the other in terms of longer burn time vs BTU’s, including cat stoves. Sure I can get a 30 hour burn out of BK30 but it won’t give me the heat I need.

As for I should’ve insulated, I like the fact that my bottom half walls are cold as was stated earlier in the thread, it greatly helps during the summer with the A/C costs. It also feels great coming from working outside all day to a nice cold downstairs in the summer.

The heating demands of most structures in the civilized western world are significantly greater than the cooling demands. New Jersey energy use statistics show 50% of energy consumption for heating, 3% for cooling. This makes sense, as the average temperature there is about 53F. Insulating your basement might cost you more in A/C, but not insulating is probably going to cost about 10X more than what you're currently saving on A/C in terms of how much energy (of some form) has to go into the system for heating.

Ultimately, it's your house, your choice on what to prioritize around. The Englander firebox will no doubt be easier to work in. I'm excited to hear your impressions of the stove once you get it running in the house! I agree that a box that loads N/S is far easier to work with. load N/S about 70% of the time in mine.