How do you mark your cut lines?

[notshubby]

I use this little guide thing I bought at my local stihl dealer clamps securely on handle with rubber strap type mount. swings out of way when not needed. it was actually longer and the little rubber pointer slid along it but since I only cut 16 inch I just cut the extra off. most of the time I will start at butt end mark along tree and do the limbing with this small saw then when I get back to where the tree gets bigger set this saw down and grab one of the big boys.

I used to have an old 83 year old neighbor who had the end of an old fishing pole hose clamped to the bottom of his handle worked good for him. I would say worked just as well as mine except he couldn't swing it back out of the way when trimming limbs.

 

[BrotherBart]

I have a tape measure with the 18" inch part totally covered with paint but that is where I know that is where to spritz the mark.

 

[Vikestand]

18" bar. I make a cut, turn the saw parallel to the log tip the bar forward make a little cut then cut at that mark. It works really well for me. Lengths are always within a tight tolerance of each other. May not work well for others. But I can't imagine worrying myself with a tape measure.

 

[Grateful11]

I just cut a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" out of a 2x4 about 24" long and drove a couple nails through at 18" center to center and just make nice visible scratches into the bark all down a log, nothing high tech.

 

[Mag Craft]

I use a tape measure and the side walk chalk that kids use to draw with. It comes in a variety of colors and is nice and large.

 

[mikes67]

I also use the mingo, I have had it around four years now. Maybe around fifty cords on it now, money well spent

 

[Wooddust]

The Mingo is awesome.

 

[Highbeam]

The Mingo is awesome.

It is awesome. You do have to buy the more expensive upside down paint can and the tip on those clogs up a lot if you don't use it often.

I recovered my plugged cap last night after a 24 hour soak in Xylene.

 

[Mag Craft]

I looked at those Mingos and I cannot justify the expense of another gadget. Plus the paint and fussing around with it.

I will just continue with simplicity. Chalk and tape measure.

 

[Oldman47]

I looked at those Mingos and I cannot justify the expense of another gadget. Plus the paint and fussing around with it.

I will just continue with simplicity. Chalk and tape measure.

Ditch the tape. Cut a stick to length at zero cost and not have to worry about your tape.

 

[Mag Craft]

Ditch the tape. Cut a stick to length at zero cost and not have to worry about your tape.

Yea that would make it even more simple. I like that.

 

[TreePointer]

I've have a Mingo and, for the most part, I like it. It excels with straight wood but sometimes isn't worth using on wood with lots of angles or very bumpy bark.

 

[Babaganoosh]

I've just got a piece of wood that's about the same size as a yardstick. I measured 18 on it and drew a line in marker. Then I got a can of line marking paint. Works well for me.

I find it so much faster to mark the logs first. It's a lot faster and probably safer since you aren't worrying about anything but cutting. I like doing everything in stages though. I'll fell a tree or two, then delimb them all, then mark them all, then buck them all. Then I prefer to split out of the trailer unless I have multiple trailer loads.

 

[CaddyUser]

Looks like it is just a T made out of PVC with a thin slit cut in one end and filled with chalk line chalk. A tap will leave behind a line.

Exactly. Made one myself awhile ago. I'll snap a few pics next time I'm up to the woodlot.

 

[deranged]

I have a Fiskars hatchet that is a smidge over 18" overall length, and I take some lumber crayons with me, just work my way down the log and get it all marked, then commence cutting.

 

[Little Digger]

I use a "Firewood Buddy" I picked up off of Amazon which is a nice sized magnet on a fiberglass rod which attaches to your bar. Kind of like a mechanics magnet but not adjustable. Even though it is 16 inches, I trimmed off an inch for the line of sight due to the way I cut. Otherwise I was getting 17 inch rounds instead of 16. Just walk down the log, make a small cut in the bark, and move to the next spot. Then pocket the device and cut my rounds on the way back.

 

[maple1]

I'm still not getting the need to carry extra tools to the woods or log pile.

Just start at the butt & rest your saw on the top of the log sideways with the end of the bar lined up with the end of the log. Eyeball the 18" mark (or whatever your length) you previously designated or marked on the side of your bar or saw, and start a new cut there. Repeat as you step down the log/tree for the next cut, resting the saw on top as you step. Almost flows with natural stepping down the tree as you go.

I'd be constantly losing the little measuring sticks or tape measures or chalk or markers, or dropping them & having to find & pick them up again. Or breaking them. Or forgetting them.

 

[rowerwet]

One saw has an 18" bar. The other I filed a mark at 18", nothing to loose or forget

 

[NoMoreCityForMe]

I keep a tape measure and sidewalk chalk (and plastic wedges) in a little pouch that hooks to my chaps - for me, trying to use my saw would be too awkward. I also like that as I get to the end I can adjust my last few marks to get some slightly shorter cuts instead of one really short cut. Plus, I bought a large pack of the chalk at the dollar store so it can get lost/stepped on/otherwise destroyed and I won't care! The tape measure is also cheap. Also, I have a terrible sense of scale. I would end up with anything from 10-24" logs if I tried to eyeball it.

I too like to mark my cuts before I start cutting. I lock the tape measure open at my chosen length and hold it with one hand, the chalk in the other, and basically slide down the log marking as I go. The tape collapses, I'd think carrying a stick would be awkward.

 

[hoverwheel]

I'm still not getting the need to carry extra tools to the woods or log pile.

Just start at the butt & rest your saw on the top of the log sideways with the end of the bar lined up with the end of the log. Eyeball the 18" mark (or whatever your length) you previously designated or marked on the side of your bar or saw, and start a new cut there. Repeat as you step down the log/tree for the next cut, resting the saw on top as you step. Almost flows with natural stepping down the tree as you go.

I'd be constantly losing the little measuring sticks or tape measures or chalk or markers, or dropping them & having to find & pick them up again. Or breaking them. Or forgetting them.

That's pretty much what I do. Not sure how consistent I am but it seems to work

 

[nosinjcted]

I just cut a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" out of a 2x4 about 24" long and drove a couple nails through at 18" center to center and just make nice visible scratches into the bark all down a log, nothing high tech.

That's exactly what I did, it even fits in my chainsaw case so I always have it with me.

 

[Monaco]

I measure two quick hand-spans... which is 20"