Hudson River Saranac -- Auger Help Please

[tevroc78]

Hi All,

I have a HR Saranac insert that has been great over the last two seasons. Fired it up last week and it worked fine for two days and then the auger stopped working. I tested it by applying 120V directly to the auger motor and it spun fine so I figured it was something in the control board. I tested the pin on the board with a voltmeter as the board called for auger function and received no voltage change coming out of the control board so I figured that the switch on the board was bad. I ordered a new board from Amandas Fireplace, HRSP 137S. I set the jumper to the right hand two pins which I think should be the setting for 50k BTU's.

The problem is that when I fire up with the new board I get exactly the same issue, auger does not rotate and I am reading no voltage out of the pin (measuring directly on the control board) going toward the auger motor. I am hoping that one of the gurus on this site can help me as I am stumped at this point.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[IHATEPROPANE]

Maybe vacuum issue?

 

[imacman]

When was the insert last removed from the fireplace and COMPLETELY disassembled and thoroughly cleaned..... Ash traps cleaned, combustion motor removed & cleaned, liner cleaned, etc, etc? It sounds like there isn't enough vacuum to close the vacuum switch, which controls the auger operation.

An easy check of this is to disconnect the wires to the vacuum switch and connect them together (bypassing the switch).

If the auger spins, then you know you have a blockage in the stove, exhaust system, the vacuum line, all the above, or a bad vacuum switch (doubtful).

 

[Bioburner]

Recent Santa fe operator had similar issues and it was exaust related causing intermittent feed- vacuum headache

 

[tevroc78]

Thanks Guys, the stove was completely cleaned last season and I did not think to check the vacuum operation, I will test that tonight by bypassing the switch as imacman suggested and take it from there, thank for the tips I will let you know what I find.

 

[pell it]

Is there an interlock switch on the hopper door? There is on my 5660 and it stops the auger from turning. Try jumping that if the vacuum switch dosen't do it.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

You might also want to reset the high temperature limit switch, do so with the unit off and unplugged then plug it back in and turn it on.

Does the combustion blower start and spin up?

 

[kykel]

when you tested motor with 120 v the motor and auger spun? There is a pin at the bottom of the auger shaft that goes through the auger motor shaft. Mine had sheared so the motor would turn but the auger wouldn't. Not sure if this is your issue but I figured i'd throw it out there.

 

[Don2222]

Hi All,

I have a HR Saranac insert that has been great over the last two seasons. Fired it up last week and it worked fine for two days and then the auger stopped working. I tested it by applying 120V directly to the auger motor and it spun fine so I figured it was something in the control board. I tested the pin on the board with a voltmeter as the board called for auger function and received no voltage change coming out of the control board so I figured that the switch on the board was bad. I ordered a new board from Amandas Fireplace, HRSP 137S. I set the jumper to the right hand two pins which I think should be the setting for 50k BTU's.

The problem is that when I fire up with the new board I get exactly the same issue, auger does not rotate and I am reading no voltage out of the pin (measuring directly on the control board) going toward the auger motor. I am hoping that one of the gurus on this site can help me as I am stumped at this point.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hello
You did order the right board and you did set the jumper correctly.

The way I test the auger portion of the control board is to make up 2 - 3 prong jumpers. Each jumper has One male and one female spade connector then I add an additional male connector for the meter probe. This way I pull apart the auger connectors and connect the male and female portion for the jumper. The additional male can be used for the meter. Simple but works great as long as you set the meter to the AC 240 v scale and it should read half way or a digital meter would read 117vac or so.

So it looks like you found out the hard way it is not the control panel. The most likely part to go bad is the Hi Limit switch. The Hi Limit snap disc is located on the back of the fire box behind the right side door. That should read as a closed circuit on the meter or zero ohms. If it does not then press the small reset button in the middle between the wire contacts. The disc should be rated for 250 Def F, if not you will always have that trouble!

 

[DexterDay]

Sounds vacuum related to me to.

Either a dirty stove, bad gaskets, cracked vacuum line, or plugged termination cap.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

The Saranac has a lovely blinking #2 light for most vacuum related issues.

 

[Don2222]

Good point Smokey!

Page 34 in the Sarnac Manual also suggests Hi Limit snap disc.

Condition 6: The auger motor does not function normally.
• If the auger shaft does not turn but the motors armature tries to spin then this is a
sign your auger is jammed. Try to remove the blockage by poking at the fuel in
the drop tube. If this does not work then empty the hopper and remove the auger
cover and clear the blockage (Note: Before removing the auger cover
disconnect power to the unit).
• Check for voltage at the auger motor, if none check circuit board fuse.
• Ensure the exhaust blower is operating.
• Check the vacuum hose is connected or damaged.
• Bypass the vacuum switch by placing a jumper wire on the two electrical
connections. If the auger motor starts to function normally replace the vacuum
switch.
• Check the manual reset on the 250° F high limit switch. If the switch has been
tripped, check for the cause of the overheating, reset the switch and check if the
auger operates normally.
• Bypass the 250° F high switch by placing a jumper wire on the two electrical
connections. If the auger motor starts to function normally replace the high limit
switch.
• If the auger is not jammed and you have tried the other possible causes, connect
120 volts directly to the auger motor. If the auger motor does not work replace
the auger motor.

 

[tevroc78]

I just wanted to thank everyone who responded, the high limit switch is bad, it does read 0 Ohms when I test with an ohmeter but the auger still wont turn with it in the circuit. When I shunt the switch leads everything works perfectly. I will replace the switch and be back in business. I guess I will also be well prepared if my control board ever goes bad as well as I now have a spare!! Thanks again guys.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Err, only should take a OHM READING OFF THAT SWITCH IF YOU TAKE ONE OF THE LEADS OFF THERE IS POWER ACROSS THAT SWITCH.

 

[Don2222]

Hi

That is correct Smokey, an ohms measurement of a device should always be done out of circuit! In circuit readings are not the same!

 

[tevroc78]

Hi Guys,

I did measure out of the circuit as smokey indicated, then I tested it in circuit again. Anyway I was able to get a new switch and I am back in service, thanks again for all the help. I wish I would have asked before buying the new control board but at least I have a spare now!!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I'm surprised that switch is actually bad. I once thought mine was but it wasn't I just needed to actually press the switch in.

I have big fingers on my paws and discovered that I can't really reliably reset those switches so now I use a small Phillips head screwdriver.

Watch your stove a bit closer than you might normally, something else may be taking place, like the convection fan shutting down or being plugged up.

 

[ArthurBrownFire]

Hi All, Newbie here. Longtime wood burner but just bought my first pellet stove, a 3 yr old Saranac unit. Convection fan stuck, not running. igniter dead.

This site has been great, wouldn't have bought it without reading all the troubleshooting info here first. So far problems noted were the convection fan full of dust bunnies, now cleaned oiled and spinning like new. Vacuum hose disconnected but intact. Vacuum switch was sticking but a good puff-suck session and all is good and reliable now. The 250F safety switch was tested and works. Ditto exhaust temp switch. combustion fan and auger motor both working fine.

Here's where I get lost. The control board says version 1.1 and at the top has a jumper J1 with 3 settings labelled A/B/C. Meaning there are 4 pins on the jumper. The jumper is across pins 2-3 meaning setting B. The manual says it's a 40,000btu unit. Can anyone tell me if this is the correct jumper location for 40Kbtu?

And on the dead igniter, should it stick out of its holder tube into the pellet basket? Mine is flush with end of tube, can't see how that could start a burn. Maybe the igniter isn't really dead, just needs pushing out further (or maybe it's wrong igniter, too short. Testing it shows open circuit/infinite ohms so I figure it is dead.

Finished totally cleaning it out, wire brushed and all and about to reassemble since everything checks out fine so wish me luck!! Oh, best place to get an igniter since I'd like to run this on TStat, bye

 

[IHATEPROPANE]

Hi All, Newbie here. Longtime wood burner but just bought my first pellet stove, a 3 yr old Saranac unit. Convection fan stuck, not running. igniter dead.

This site has been great, wouldn't have bought it without reading all the troubleshooting info here first. So far problems noted were the convection fan full of dust bunnies, now cleaned oiled and spinning like new. Vacuum hose disconnected but intact. Vacuum switch was sticking but a good puff-suck session and all is good and reliable now. The 250F safety switch was tested and works. Ditto exhaust temp switch. combustion fan and auger motor both working fine.

Here's where I get lost. The control board says version 1.1 and at the top has a jumper J1 with 3 settings labelled A/B/C. Meaning there are 4 pins on the jumper. The jumper is across pins 2-3 meaning setting B. The manual says it's a 40,000btu unit. Can anyone tell me if this is the correct jumper location for 40Kbtu?

And on the dead igniter, should it stick out of its holder tube into the pellet basket? Mine is flush with end of tube, can't see how that could start a burn. Maybe the igniter isn't really dead, just needs pushing out further (or maybe it's wrong igniter, too short. Testing it shows open circuit/infinite ohms so I figure it is dead.

Finished totally cleaning it out, wire brushed and all and about to reassemble since everything checks out fine so wish me luck!! Oh, best place to get an igniter since I'd like to run this on TStat, bye

I can help you with the igniter. It should be recessed in the tube about 1/8 of an inch. You can get replacements at Grainger or Amazon for about 35 bucks.

 

[Bioburner]

Its the super heated air that's coming by the igniter that starts the fire, not contact with the pellets. Welcome to the site.

 

[ArthurBrownFire]

Wow! you guys are fast! tx for igniter source and how it works info. Suspect the manual I was given with it isn't quite right as it shows a different control panel. The label inside the side door says model "Tasman 40,000" maybe the Canadian model name.

 

[Bioburner]

Wow! you guys are fast! tx for igniter source and how it works info. Suspect the manual I was given with it isn't quite right as it shows a different control panel. The label inside the side door says model "Tasman 40,000" maybe the Canadian model name.

Might have to slow down and let you get cold, Women's hockey team beat US.

 

[ArthurBrownFire]

Might have to slow down and let you get cold, Women's hockey team beat US.

Ooops, wasn't me! You had us 2-0 until the last few minutes, took overtime to clinch it. Was listening to the game while cleaning it out, I'm not a hockey fan except for Olympics or Worlds.
Back to stoves, need combustion motor gaskets. Looks like they were fiberglass paper type. Is there a silicone goop substitute or do I have to find some paper and cut my own? OEM seems to be $30 each and I'm a cheap pr!ck. Tx!

 

[IHATEPROPANE]

Ooops, wasn't me! You had us 2-0 until the last few minutes, took overtime to clinch it. Was listening to the game while cleaning it out, I'm not a hockey fan except for Olympics or Worlds.
Back to stoves, need combustion motor gaskets. Looks like they were fiberglass paper type. Is there a silicone goop substitute or do I have to find some paper and cut my own? OEM seems to be $30 each and I'm a cheap pr!ck. Tx!

Look around for the gasket. The gasket is standard on many stoves. One dealer near me quoted me 35 for it, the other 7.

 

[Bioburner]

You could try high temp automotive gasket material from auto parts store and cut your own.