Inside or outside chimney flue? Please help me make a decision.

[mud_season]

Hey all,

I've scrubbed and read quite a few posts, however I decided to create my own so please bare with me. We have a Manchester stove and a hearth we've purchased, and are now waiting for a chimney to be installed. We are definitely leaning towards an inside-the-home chimney. It would be against a centered wall, between the kitchen and living room(open space), with the heat rising to the 2nd floor, into the cathedral ceiling(got a fan at the top) and hopefully the other two bedrooms there. Our installer told us that if he were in our situation, he would do an up-and-out with the chimney, run it along the house, and we could, if we wanted to, put a chase over it. I've read so much about chimneys in the last few days, and it seems inside is the preferred method. I am open to either as long as it's the better choice. This is all happening in VT, and the install should be taking place this coming weekend. I am leaning more towards the inside install since I don't want to have to deal with cold chimney syndrome, creosote building up in the elbows of the chimney, and a few other things I've read about such as the risk of CO2 build up tending to be higher than with a straight up flue. We would use it consistently, especially since we are in a very rural area and the power grid we are on has failed during heavy snow before, up to a week. I will attach some photos if anyone wants to get a general idea of what this would look like in either scenario. Thank you for your time, I'll welcome all pieces of advice!

 

[Newbie78]

Inside, straight up, exiting very near the highest ridge of the roof is the best. I don't know much, but I do know this.

Oh, and it's not CO2 you need to be concerned about, it is CO; carbon MONoxide

Photos are always helpful for the experts on here, which I am not.

 

[Wildflush]

Straight up is best. We have a Cape and had to go up and out with our Class A insulated chimney. Even with bends our Vista gets great draft and no creosote build up since I burn hot with -20% MC wood.

 

[begreen]

Inside, straight up is the best, preferably in a central location. This site has a good primer on chimneys:

A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood - All About Chimneys

The Wood Heat Organization was formed to support the public in the responsible use of wood energy in the home. We fulfill our mandate by providing reliable information, by conducting research into wood heating-related issues and by representing the public interest in discussions of policies that...

www.woodheat.org

 

[mud_season]

Inside, straight up, exiting very near the highest ridge of the roof is the best. I don't know much, but I do know this.

Oh, and it's not CO2 you need to be concerned about, it is CO; carbon MONoxide

Photos are always helpful for the experts on here, which I am not.

Ah, silly old me. It is CO, my mistake.

 

[mud_season]

Ok, these drawings are terrible, but I'm using a Mac and somehow having a really hard time drawing on them. The first picture shows where the chimney would go through one of our kiddo's bedroom, it'd be somewhere behind their door. Wondering if that's safe, she'd definitely know not to mess with it. The second pic shows where the outside chimney would come out through the house wall, it's that black line. Third shows where the stove would go with an inside chimney, smack in the middle of the 1st floor. And last pic shows the stove if we were to take the chimney outside.

 

[begreen]

When a chimney pipe passes thru an upstairs room it must be protected. Typically it's chased (boxed). There should be no worry about the child touching it.

 

[mud_season]

When a chimney pipe passes thru an upstairs room it must be protected. Typically it's chased (boxed). There should be no worry about the child touching it.

I asked about that and the contractor told me it would not need a chase. I'll have to find a solution for that then. Thank you !

 

[begreen]

The chimney pipe can not be unprotected. They also need a fire stop when passing through the 2nd story ceiling and an attic insulation guard in the attic.
NFPA 211 states:
“Factory-built chimneys that pass through floors of buildings requiring the protection of vertical openings shall be enclosed with approved walls having a fire resistance rating of not less than one hour when such chimneys are located in a building less than 4 stories in height, and not less than 2 hours when such chimneys are located in a building more than 4 stories in height.”

 

[mud_season]

The chimney pipe can not be unprotected. They also need a fire stop when passing through the 2nd story ceiling and an attic insulation guard in the attic.
NFPA 211 states:
“Factory-built chimneys that pass through floors of buildings requiring the protection of vertical openings shall be enclosed with approved walls having a fire resistance rating of not less than one hour when such chimneys are located in a building less than 4 stories in height, and not less than 2 hours when such chimneys are located in a building more than 4 stories in height.”

View attachment 319017

I agree, and I have learned about fireboxes today as well. I think this could be the reason he told us that if he had a choice, he'd just take the chimney straight out through the wall behind the stove, a lot less insulation and holes to worry about. I feel like I'm at a loss now, I wonder what key questions I should ask him. The fire protection when passing through floor and ceiling is definitely something I'll bring up. Thank you!

 

[begreen]

Another thing to think about is clearance to combustibles. The sofa may need to be moved and the curtains may not work out in the wall location. Also, the eave may need to be notched to clear the chimney pipe or custom brackets fitted outside. Usually offsets are only for indoor use.

 

[Wildflush]

Another thing to think about is clearance to combustibles. The sofa may need to be moved and the curtains may not work out in the wall location. Also, the eave may need to be notched to clear the chimney pipe or custom brackets fitted outside. Usually offsets are only for indoor use.

I have 2x 30’s to clear my eave/gutters with my Excel on the back of the house. My installer said this was perfectly fine since you can’t notch along the gutters. With 23’ of chimney no issues with draft.

 

[Newbie78]

Do you want a big, shiny steel pipe going up the front of your house? If it's in a chase, is there room between the windows for an attractive chase?

I also wonder why people are so opposed to running a chimney through the eve, where it belongs..

 

[begreen]

I have 2x 30’s to clear my eave/gutters with my Excel on the back of the house. My installer said this was perfectly fine since you can’t notch along the gutters. With 23’ of chimney no issues with draft.

Some companies forbid this and some simply omit it from their instructions. Excel is the latter. If one does this they must be sure to properly support the offset elbows.

 

[mud_season]

Do you want a big, shiny steel pipe going up the front of your house? If it's in a chase, is there room between the windows for an attractive chase?

I also wonder why people are so opposed to running a chimney through the eve, where it belongs..

Good point, I wonder if it would have enough room between the windows to cover it up properly.

 

[mud_season]

Another thing to think about is clearance to combustibles. The sofa may need to be moved and the curtains may not work out in the wall location. Also, the eave may need to be notched to clear the chimney pipe or custom brackets fitted outside. Usually offsets are only for indoor use.

none of the items in the photo are ours, this is all from Zillow. but yeah, we'd have 36" space or more between the stove and anything else.

 

[gthomas785]

Building a chase around an interior chimney pipe is not a big deal. A few studs, some sheetrock, joint compound. It can be built in a day and painted the following day. You do need to build it though, otherwise furniture or laundry could end up piled against the pipe which would be a problem.

 

[mud_season]

Building a chase around an interior chimney pipe is not a big deal. A few studs, some sheetrock, joint compound. It can be built in a day and painted the following day. You do need to build it though, otherwise furniture or laundry could end up piled against the pipe which would be a problem.

I think until that is built, I might throw a tall metal doggy gate around it. need to start buying the materials.

 

[Bill S]

Chiming in in support of an interior chimney - better draft, less chance of creosote (though you've got a nice, clean burning stove there!). I'd also suggest you think about how your placement will effect cleaning (accessibility). Also, because we Vermonter's might get a little snow now and then - will chimney placement be effected by snow slide (looks like you don't have a metal roof) or build up with asphalt? Hope this helps and, btw, I love Hearthstone stoves - burning a Castleton I, had a 1984 Hearthstone II for years. Vermont Castings before that which were also wonderful - but ahhhh, that soapstone!

 

[mud_season]

Chiming in in support of an interior chimney - better draft, less chance of creosote (though you've got a nice, clean burning stove there!). I'd also suggest you think about how your placement will effect cleaning (accessibility). Also, because we Vermonter's might get a little snow now and then - will chimney placement be effected by snow slide (looks like you don't have a metal roof) or build up with asphalt? Hope this helps and, btw, I love Hearthstone stoves - burning a Castleton I, had a 1984 Hearthstone II for years. Vermont Castings before that which were also wonderful - but ahhhh, that soapstone!

I appreciate the input, I really do. I am so nervous of making this switch, but we have the hearth and stove so no backing away from this. Plus I'd hate to be without heat if/when the power goes out. I have never used fire to warm up, just use oil and that can get pricey. The first chunk of $ used to start and finish a project like this can be so discouraging. Alas, I am neck deep in this. I doubt the chimney will be affected by snow, that's a question to ask the installer I guess. If you can think of any more questions I can fire his way, please let me know. I don't want a half a$$ed project.

 

[Wildflush]

Another thing to think about is clearance to combustibles. The sofa may need to be moved and the curtains may not work out in the wall location. Also, the eave may need to be notched to clear the chimney pipe or custom brackets fitted outside. Usually offsets are only for indoor use.

Thank you, the site friendlyfires.ca that sells ICC Excel actually shows a house with ICC 30’s to clear the eave with the support directly under the first 30. This is exactly how mine is setup. I have a very small run between the 30’s just enough to clear the gutters.

Every install is different, just some homes don’t allow straight up unless you want an expensive remodel of your home making a wood stove a less attractive option IMO.

 

[Newbie78]

Eave.

I used to be able to spell..

 

[Bill S]

Just a message of encouragement. You've got a great stove and a hearth install already. You are obviously taking time to ensure the best possible chimney installation. Once it's in and you carefully and slowly season the stove (see owners' manual) it will be a thing of beauty and warmth and an investment you will enjoy the benefits of time and time again! Burn dry wood!

 

[AsylumResident]

I have an outside install. My stove is installed in the basement. I dug out an egress well, essentially to give the chimney pipe a place to come out underground.

Inside I have 90 degree elbow about 24 inches above the stove, connects into a horizontal pipe through a CMU block wall which is about 24 inches long, that connects into a T with a bracket anchored to the outside of the CMU block wall in the egress well, straight up the outside of the house, through the soffit and up through the roof.

I have not gone through an entire winter with it yet but so far with temps in the upper 20's it hasn't been an issue with draft. My draft is typically measured at .08 - .11 iwc. I will most likely build around the chimney pipe next summer. I'm glad it will be exposed this winter so I can see how the colder weather effects the operation of the stove with the pipe exposed.

 

[Wildflush]

I have an outside install. My stove is installed in the basement. I dug out an egress well, essentially to give the chimney pipe a place to come out underground.

Inside I have 90 degree elbow about 24 inches above the stove, connects into a horizontal pipe through a CMU block wall which is about 24 inches long, that connects into a T with a bracket anchored to the outside of the CMU block wall in the egress well, straight up the outside of the house, through the soffit and up through the roof.

I have not gone through an entire winter with it yet but so far with temps in the upper 20's it hasn't been an issue with draft. My draft is typically measured at .08 - .11 iwc. I will most likely build around the chimney pipe next summer. I'm glad it will be exposed this winter so I can see how the colder weather effects the operation of the stove with the pipe exposed.

How tall is your chimney from top of stove to cap?