Install myself, or pay the pros?

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I would suggest doing it yourself if you have the knowledge and skills to complete the job, the one thing I will state is that if any issues arise (if installation is done improperly) it could cause further issues and injury. For this reason I would always suggest a home owner contact an insured and licensed heating installation company to get the job done correctly. In theory saving money always sounds great but could always have the potential to go wrong...

-Best of Luck

Believe me, I get that...and that was exactly what I had planned on from the get-go. There are so many horror stories out there about shoddy installations out there, and the fact that mine is going to be pretty straight forward led me toward considering doing the work myself.

Asking honestly here: these high-end class A systems have very good locking together mechanisms, and if I maintain and exceed all required clearances, adhere to code for radiation shielding, supports, etc, what should make me shy away from doing the work myself?
 
Believe me, I get that...and that was exactly what I had planned on from the get-go. There are so many horror stories out there about shoddy installations out there, and the fact that mine is going to be pretty straight forward led me toward considering doing the work myself.

Asking honestly here: these high-end class A systems have very good locking together mechanisms, and if I maintain and exceed all required clearances, adhere to code for radiation shielding, supports, etc, what should make me shy away from doing the work myself?
Nothing as long as your insurance is ok with a self install. Many are but you should check
 
Many chimney guys wont change structural changes and in some areas really cant without getting different permits. We do but i was a carpenter for years and the regulations and permitting in our area are not to stringent. So that part i dont see is their fault. The crappy stone work obviously is.


Yea that maybe what they say about doing something structural. It was years ago, and all I remember was them explaining how the were going to do this hideous looking chimney in my timber frame cabin. I went over my building plans with them, to dimension the clearances. At no time did they mention the chase. Now thinking about it maybe it was a sales guy. Actually it was the only issue building the whole house.
 
Alright folks, just submitted my building permit application for the chimney and chase construction...starting to get excited about breaking ground on this project!!
 
Alright folks, just submitted my building permit application for the chimney and chase construction...starting to get excited about breaking ground on this project!!


So did you decide to do it yourself? Between the stoves manual and the chimney manual there are enough instructions for people with carpentry skills to do it. Take some progress pictures.
 
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So did you decide to do it yourself? Between the stoves manual and the chimney manual there are enough instructions for people with carpentry skills to do it. Take some progress pictures.

I did...the process of drawing up the plans really solidified my decision. I'll be sure to take plenty of shots, don't worry!

First shot: the "before" with the useless gas fireplace and ugly arse wood/granite combo

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Welp, got the call on Thursday that my permit was approved, so it's off to the races...first step was to get rid of the unruly lilac that was clogging up the job site

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Woke up at dawn this morning to start the demo work :)

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Making a little progress while trying to not wake up the neighborhood on a Saturday morning

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Finally, my laborer shows up for work

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Good riddance!

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Lunch break for the crew

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First round of inspections

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I'm pretty pleased with the progress for day 1

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Also, I got the quote back from the Mason who's going to be doing the limestone-ish dry stack ledgestone work, and it's about what I was anticipating. For the hearth pad, I'm going to be doing a poured concrete, like what they're doing for kitchen counter tops these days. My dad did one in his house, then a another one in a house he flipped, and they both came out awesome! I figure I'll have him advise when I do the pad...thinking about something like this look, except on the floor of course

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Update: just passed the footing inspection today, so I'm cleared to pour! Then, it's on to start the framing work :)

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Also, stopped by the hearth store and they have the exact model I ordered from them on their floor now. Although it was in the 90s today and muggy af, I'm getting stoked on the wood burning season!

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i love the crew :)
 
Also, stopped by the hearth store and they have the exact model I ordered from them on their floor now. Although it was in the 90s today and muggy af, I'm getting stoked on the wood burning season!

That's the worst part about getting a new stove during the summer. I installed mine a couple of weeks ago and now all I can do is look at it and wait.
 
Update: just passed the footing inspection today, so I'm cleared to pour! Then, it's on to start the framing work :)

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Also, stopped by the hearth store and they have the exact model I ordered from them on their floor now. Although it was in the 90s today and muggy af, I'm getting stoked on the wood burning season!

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Awesome thread, Rangerbait. Please keep the posts coming. Trust me when I tell you how much better it is to do this during the summer, than in early December. The extra months of anticipation is a bonus!
 
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Quick question...I'm planning to go with Champion brand stainless chimney; is there another brand that's comparable? Probably about $2,700 without the chase top.
 
Champion brand pipe I believe is the Ventis Class A double wall Insulated pipe. It's a good pipe, as are several other Class A double wall pipes. As long as you got it at a reasonable pipe, it should be fine.
There is also,Selkirk, Duratech and probably others that are also very good.
 
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Champion brand pipe I believe is the Ventis Class A double wall Insulated pipe. It's a good pipe, as are several other Class A double wall pipes. As long as you got it at a reasonable pipe, it should be fine.
There is also,Selkirk, Duratech and probably others that are also very good.

Which of the top end pipes are generally considered the best value?
 
ICC Excel chimney is also very good quality pipe.
 
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Which of the top end pipes are generally considered the best value?
Ventis and excel are both very good. It all depends on the price you get.

Selkirk and duratech are fine but not as good as ventis (champion) or excel.
 
It's been a little bit since my last update, but I have been busy...

Got the footing inspection done and the footings poured at the beginning of last weekend, so my goal of having the platform framed up by the end of the weekend seemed attainable...

Friday:

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Sunday:

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Mostly just did prep work during the work week, although I did remove the wall and frame in the new header on Tuesday after work:

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Woke up to a raining Saturday yesterday, so dedicated a bit of time to setting up the scaffolding in preparation for framing the chase...

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Nice view from 30' up...I'll have to go up one more buck, but will wait until I have some framing to secure it to...

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Saturday was also a framing lumber run day, along with my "helpers"...

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Sunday: we frame...

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My goal was to have the framing completely done by the end of the weekend, but fell just short due to some lost productivity from the rain. I'll put in the little rafters on the right side where the chase jogs in by the upstairs windows, and add final section to get me 3' above the roof ridge after work a couple of days this week.

I also need to get the pipe and chase top ordered since I'll be ready for it pretty soon.
 
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So Ranger, based on your latest pictures i'm trying to figure out what it going to look like when your done. Is the stove going to sit in the alcove you framed out?
 
Question: I am planning to put two recessed lights in the ceiling of the alcove...any issues with the wood stove getting them too hot? I'll have a good r30+ in the ceiling of the alcove, and will be using IC rated fixtures.
 
...any issues with the wood stove getting them too hot?

Probably not.
Recessed cans have thermal limit switches that shut off power to the socket if they get too hot. The symptom would be the light shutting off for a few minutes while the switch cools off, then the light would turn on again by itself. The most common cause of overheating is installing old style non reflector incandescent bulbs which heat up the can. LED's still produce some heat, but not as much as incandescents or flourescents, so even added stove heat shouldn't be enough to cause any problems.


Greg
 
Question: I am planning to put two recessed lights in the ceiling of the alcove...any issues with the wood stove getting them too hot? I'll have a good r30+ in the ceiling of the alcove, and will be using IC rated fixtures.
Allow the alcove to vent at its ceiling by not putting a solid lintel across the top front. That will stop heat from pocketing at the ceiling.
 
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Allow the alcove to vent at its ceiling by not putting a solid lintel across the top front. That will stop heat from pocketing at the ceiling.

I had initially planned to have that exact configuration, until my wife brought up that exact concern...I have since modified the design to make the alcove ceiling on the same plane as the bottom of the header.