Install myself, or pay the pros?

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I had initially planned to have that exact configuration, until my wife brought up that exact concern...I have since modified the design to make the alcove ceiling on the same plane as the bottom of the header.
Good plan. You could put a decorative grillework across the top front, but wide open will work the best. Given that configuration the recessed lights should be ok.
 
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Ditched work today and finished up the framing...I hope the chimney pipe comes in soon so I can put it in, call for the inspection, and get the bldg dept off my n-u-teez for this project. I guess I can start on the Durock inside of the alcove walls and floor, that way I can lose the tarp and get back to living indoors :)

I ordered the concrete supplies today so I can get to work pouring the hearth pad as soon as that stuff comes in. Going with a concrete countertop system...I called their tech dept today to verify that a hearth is a supported application for the product, and they said absolutely. Pretty excited to do that part...I think it'll look awesome!

Once the hearth is done, I can get the stone guy out to do his thing. The stove is being delivered on the 16th, so if the hearth and stone is done, I'll be firing it up shortly thereafter!

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Ok, quick question: I'm insulating the entire chase, but have read some recommendations that the interior of the chase also be dry walled...I'm using craft-faced fiberglass in the alcove (living area), but plan to use un-faced everywhere else with some netting to prevent anything from falling inward toward the pipe. Thoughts?
 
Ok, quick question: I'm insulating the entire chase, but have read some recommendations that the interior of the chase also be dry walled...I'm using craft-faced fiberglass in the alcove (living area), but plan to use un-faced everywhere else with some netting to prevent anything from falling inward toward the pipe. Thoughts?
There is absolutly no reason to drywall the inside of the chase as long as you keep the insulation in place
 
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My wife just sent me this glorious shot while I'm at work...the rest of the chimney parts and the concrete system for the hearth!!

I cashed in a couple of vacation days for Thursday and Friday, so my goal for the end of the weekend is to get the chimney stacked and inspected, the sheathing/flashing installed, and start making some good progress on the siding. I don't think I'll get around to pouring the hearth, but it could happen.

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Update: passed the chimney and framing inspections today, and made a little progress on the sheathing. Once the T-showers started, I made a Home Depot run and grabbed the Roxul that I'll be installing tomorrow.

My goal for the end of the day is to get the 2nd and 3rd floors insulated, the rest of the sheathing hung and taped, and the rest of the flashing installed...at that point, the chase will be dried in (with the exception of the chase cover, which is on order). I will shift my attention to pouring the hearth pad next, so I can green-light the stone mason.

Question: the hearth company wants $300 to deliver the stove to my garage...I'm thinking about just having them forklift it into my truck bed, then figuring out how to get it into my garage once it's here...bad idea?


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I have always used my pickup to get stoves and bring them home. A good strong appliance dolly, movers blanket and ratchet straps make it pretty easy. Once there are wheels attached to the stove it's much easier to move. Do you have ramps for the pickup bed?
 
Question: the hearth company wants $300 to deliver the stove to my garage...I'm thinking about just having them forklift it into my truck bed, then figuring out how to get it into my garage once it's here...bad idea?

Good idea.
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Gut the insides and take the door off. Two or three guys can move it


Greg
 
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Leaning toward this option...I'd like to save at least a couple of Benjamins on this project...damn wood stoves are spendy!
I was really worried about this part of my install with the ~650 lb FP30. I built a ramp and used a mover dolly. Three of us lifted it off the dolly and onto the hearth pad.

I worried about it much more than I should have. Take your time and think it through and you will have no problem.
 
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Need advice: I have the Roxul installed in the top 10' section of the chase so far, but can't come up with a good method of keeping the chase top insulation held up and away from the pipe...ideas? Man, that Roxul is a pain in the D to work with!
 
get some nylon string or light gauge wire and a staplegun. Run the string across the face of the roxul in a Z pattern from stud to the adjacent stud.
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I'm a little embarrassed to admit it, but I insulated the chase with the pipe already in...that had me frustrated to no end. My reasoning was that I wanted to button the chase up immediately after insulating since we've been getting gully-washing thundershowers nearly every afternoon. For some reason, it didn't occur to me that I could unscrew and pull the pipe out in a matter of minutes. Tomorrow after work, that's what I'll be doing, and then will proceed with the string option. I feel like a tool now.
 
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I'm a little embarrassed to admit it, but I insulated the chase with the pipe already in...that had me frustrated to no end. My reasoning was that I wanted to button the chase up immediately after insulating since we've been getting gully-washing thundershowers nearly every afternoon. For some reason, it didn't occur to me that I could unscrew and pull the pipe out in a matter of minutes. Tomorrow after work, that's what I'll be doing, and then will proceed with the string option. I feel like a tool now.
All of us including pros like me have done stuff like that. You get done and look at it and realize you made it allot harder than it had to be
 
Question: I got the fan kit with my King, so I need to wire in a 120v outlet to plug it into...is there a best location for the outlet, and what is a good gang box/plate cover for this duty? I was planning to put it directly behind the stove at the floor height.
 
Got the last bit of insulation done in the top section of the chase after work today (again I say that Roxul is some miserable shite to work with), then nailed off the last sheet of sheathing. The pipe extends just far enough above the top sheathing of the chase to allow me to put the last 1' section of pipe and get some screws into it, but that'll have to wait until the stainless chase cover shows up. I still have the 2nd floor of the chase to insulate and finish sheathing, but that should go much quicker since it's 8' vice 10' like the top section is, and only has 3 walls to insulate since it shares a wall with the master bath.

Question: would it be worthwhile to open a vent between the chase and the bathroom in order to redirect some of the radiant heat of the pipe, or is it not significant enough to even bother?

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Well...another day, another lesson learned. I was sitting on the toilet this morning taking inventory of all of the myriad tasks I have left to do on this project, and my stomach dropped...I realized that when I gave the guy taking my chase cover order the dimensions I needed, that I neglected to factor in the vinyl siding's outside corners that the cover needs to, well, cover. DAMMIT! I called them up and asked if they could fab me a piece to slide under the skirt of the cover, step out the 1" all around I need, and then extend down to create a new 3" skirt.

They sure can! Albeit, for $300 more dollars. Stupid should hurt, and today it did.
 
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Got the last bit of insulation done in the top section of the chase after work today (again I say that Roxul is some miserable shite to work with),

Really? I think it's much preferable and healthier to work with than fiberglass batts. And performance wise, there is no comparison, it rocks! (pun intended)