Is 272xp enough saw for milling

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No batteries. I plan to rig it to a power pack while at the mill.
 
It has been a while. I am finally back and hope to start milling this afternoon. I was able to roll one log down to a platform where I think I can mill it. The log is not quite level. I believe I should level my ladder for the first cut? Is it a safe assumption?

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I think you want to level it with the log, level with the ground doesn't matter so much...
 
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Making the ladder parallel to the log is what I do. Milling down an incline is easier if you don’t have a wench. I recommend one with some rope that has some stretch.
Evan
 
Milling down an incline is easier if you don’t have a wench.
Most wenches will tell you to go pound salt when you tell them to get to work on your log anyways...
 
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Most wenches will tell you to go pound salt when you tell them to get to work on your log anyways...
Oh my…….
I got side tracked with cutting couple of dead yellow bitches this afternoon. Will be setting up the alaskan in the morning. Man, my new (three tanks of gas) ms261c is on steroids!
 
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I got milling today. Measured one side perfectly to get 4 (6x6) posts. Started and by the time i got three side passes, the other side was 17x17. That is 3” off.
what do I do now? Where did I go sideways?

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5” sorry. Utube confused me with 13” to get 4 6x6s
 
Tried 3x6s. 1 out of 12 is straight and not tapered. I’m guessing you have the end square, It’s just a bit like a truncated pyramid. All your next slab cuts will be parallel to the top. So you need is to make the two sides parallel or just cut the 6x6 out and square up later on a band saw? You will have two parallel sides (top and bottom). I was going to solve this issue how to make square larger dimensional lumber with a beam cutter jig for the saw. It didn’t work out very well, but I got boards cut.

now my plan is to plane top and bottom (my 6” side) then run the 3” side through a jointer and then send Them through the table saw to square up the 4th side. Slabs are easy. Lumber is not so much.

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How‘s the saw running? I finally got around to putting a tach on mine and came from the factory running 13k rpm (I’m at sea level and it was warm 80 degrees out. ) I took it back to 12 or 12.2 did notice a bit of loss in power but the cuts were wider about 36” and it’s guzzling fuel.
Evan
 
How‘s the saw running? I finally got around to putting a tach on mine and came from the factory running 13k rpm (I’m at sea level and it was warm 80 degrees out. ) I took it back to 12 or 12.2 did notice a bit of loss in power but the cuts were wider about 36” and it’s guzzling fuel.
Evan
It is running ok. My tac is cheap and the numbers are all over. It does sound like it is running odd. It sucks gas, 3/4 tank per pass. Oil worries me, it leaks at the oiler and the tip (36”) is dry.
 
So not sure what YouTube says but I like to mill on 4x4’s. From where you’re at, keep slicing off 6 “s. Then stand them up and tack them together with a 1x3, keep dropping down 6”s. Nice to have them on 4x4’s. Also, instead of just sliding your mill on the log, tack some 1x3’s and use your ladder every cut to keep from porpoising.
 
Make sure there’s not a lubrajet hole on the bar. Drill it out. Nice to have a little shorter bar. 36 is probably a pita. It would definitely help your power, speed and fuel. I always use short as possible and shave the wide spots
 
Oil worries me, it leaks at the oiler and the tip (36”) is dry.
Mine won’t oil a 36” bar either. I’m pretty sure I cooked cooked the bar and after I dressed the bar I ran out of tensioner travel and had to drill a new hole for the tensioner pin. Would have been easier to shorten chain.
My answer was a 52” bar and auxiliary oiler. (My dad)
 
I feel less crazy every time I see other people struggling to mill lumber.
 
I can't help but think milling your own lumber is an enormous waste of time, energy and effort. Unless you're going to the trouble to get it all graded, it can't be used for anything structural, so why bother?
 
I can't help but think milling your own lumber is an enormous waste of time, energy and effort. Unless you're going to the trouble to get it all graded, it can't be used for anything structural, so why bother?
If you live in an urban or suburban environment, sure it really doesn't make sense. So far my Logosol has paid for itself with the lumber milled in just one year, especially with the pandemic lumber crisis. I have built a wood shed, a few raised beds, shed floor, chicken coop, aviary, and a few small projects with the lumber I've milled from my property.
 
I can't help but think milling your own lumber is an enormous waste of time, energy and effort.
Exactly what many think of your firewood habit...
 
I can't help but think milling your own lumber is an enormous waste of time, energy and effort. Unless you're going to the trouble to get it all graded, it can't be used for anything structural, so why bother?
Economically it makes no sense. I have way too much firewood already. I figured it would be a great project to mill my own lumber for the shed I plan to build. The milling itself was hard work but fun. It was windy yesterday and the saw dust was getting in the eyes…that was annoying.
Now I have to figure out how to make those posts 6” at both ends
 
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Economically it makes no sense. I have way too much firewood already. I figured it would be a great project to mill my own lumber for the shed I plan to build. The milling itself was hard work but fun. It was windy yesterday and the saw dust was getting in the eyes…that was annoying.
Now I have to figure out how to make those posts 6” at both ends
I plan on getting a full face respirator because I'm tired of sawdust getting behind my eye protection. Along with debris from my angle grinder somehow getting behind my safety specs.
 
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I can't help but think milling your own lumber is an enormous waste of time, energy and effort. Unless you're going to the trouble to get it all graded, it can't be used for anything structural, so why bother?
Rough cut lumber is fine for structural use...
Inspectors don't recognize any lumber without a grade.
But that doesn't mean it can't be used.
Only a worry if you want an inspected and approved job.
If you go to sell a house up here there is no looking to see if there were permits for work,if you are getting financing,the lender will want an inspection.Then the inspection will tell what needs to be addressed for the lender to OK the loan/mortgage.
I know lots of homes that have sold with rough cut lumber in them.
 
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I plan on getting a full face respirator because I'm tired of sawdust getting behind my eye protection. Along with debris from my angle grinder somehow getting behind my safety specs.
I tried it but I sweat to much and it’s always hot 9 months out of the year. I can’t even wear a clear shield so I have full wrap safety glasses behind forestry helmet screen. But if it’s a still day I will wear a respirator with yellow and pink cartridges particulate and VOC filter. The saw dust from the poplar is so wet it doesn’t blow around much. If it gets really fine I need to sharpen the chain.

Evan
 
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If you go to sell a house up here there is no looking to see if there were permits for work,if you are getting financing,the lender will want an inspection.
Nobody cared that the kitchen remodel was not a permitted job when we bought our hose. Many things not done to code. I’m pretty sure I was aware of it at the time. Appraisal came on under sale price and we ended up amending the contract to the appraisal price in “as is” condition. Home inspectors I think are a racket as with real estate agents. Hour home inspector put a sticker on every window that didn’t open but didn’t bother to identify any outlets that would not securely hold a plug.

I’m not milling to save money or time. My setup is about 1000$ and I’m super cheap. It’s a hobby that has useful end products. I like the fact that many of the items we see an use every day in our house came from a single tree growing on the lot. I could not have purchased the slabs for less than I spent on the mill.

This weeks project is custom L shaped bunk bed loft with live edge timbers. Lumber alone would be close to 200$. If I wanted it poplar it would be 500-600$. So I think you can make an argument that for certain projects/species it is cost effective. I probably have 4-5 hours of work in this stack of timber.
Economically it makes no sense.

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