Is 272xp enough saw for milling

[Nealm66]

Ya, it’s not just the bark that dulls .Something in the cambium would be my guess. I just wire brush the bark real quick, right where the cut should be if it’s not slipping. Be careful not to run the chain too loose, that’s a quick death blow to an expensive 3/8 bar.

 

[SpaceBus]

Ya, it’s not just the bark that dulls .Something in the cambium would be my guess. I just wire brush the bark real quick, right where the cut should be if it’s not slipping. Be careful not to run the chain too loose, that’s a quick death blow to an expensive 3/8 bar.

I've noticed the line between too loose and too tight is very fine when milling.

 

[Nealm66]

Not too tight, not too loose.

 

[Nealm66]

Lol, yup. Most of my rags should be stretched pretty good but with your 36, once it’s stretched, it should be loose on the saw when it cools, tighten it so you can move it on the bar with some resistance, should be around a 1/2 inch you can pull in about the middle of the bar. There abouts. If it’s stretched pretty good, you shouldn’t have to mess with it for a while. If it’s loose again when it’s cold, tighten to the same again

 

[Nealm66]

Ha, here’s some old school stuff for ya. Found this digging through some old rags. Used to carve the back down for less drag. Think it’s a 32”. Probably end up breaking a 32 down as I’ve only found one 28. I’ve started throwing them away before they start to pile so the piles not too big lol. Still, got probably 10 32’s I could break down

 

[Nealm66]

Also found a decent looking Oregon 28 bar. Looks good anyways. Original tip. If it runs on you, just take it down and have the rails ground should get you through the log pile

 

[Diabel]

Thanks for the pics. I think the cost of shipping will be too much. Especially the bar. I think I will do what you suggested. Big cuts I will use the 36” and sharpen often. Other cuts the regular 25” will have to do. Maybe pickup another 25” chain 35*.

 

[Nealm66]

Ok, it’s up to you. Just let me know if you change your mind. I know I could optimize my grind a little better for milling but I played a little bit with it and found a happy medium so I can use it for tree work or milling and it’s a pain to try and get it dialed in so it’s staying where it’s at till the grinder gives up. I don’t have anything to mill handy but if you want, I’ll try to make a couple simple drawings if you keep struggling with the milling that will definitely help you make perfect boards. I know it’s probably hard to understand what I’m saying without some sort of illustration

 

[Diabel]

It was a busy weekend and I did not get a chance to do as many passes as I wished. Last week stopped by a Stihl dealer and I picked up a second 30* 84 link chain. It was 24.00 and a 10* they wanted 44.00.
On Monday morning before heading back to town I had a bit of time and instead of swapping the chain I decided to sharpen the one that is already on the mill. When bucking rounds you can easily tell the condition of your chain by looking at the chips, not so when milling. I had a feeling the chain was dull since the last pass with it was painfully slow. Using my little gizmo as suggested by @SpaceBus here, i was done within 10min without taking the saw off the mill. I did three passes in a 10’ log in a nice and timely fashion. It was very satisfying.

 

[SpaceBus]

It was a busy weekend and I did not get a chance to do as many passes as I wished. Last week stopped by a Stihl dealer and I picked up a second 30* 84 link chain. It was 24.00 and a 10* they wanted 44.00.
On Monday morning before heading back to town I had a bit of time and instead of swapping the chain I decided to sharpen the one that is already on the mill. When bucking rounds you can easily tell the condition of your chain by looking at the chips, not so when milling. I had a feeling the chain was dull since the last pass with it was painfully slow. Using my little gizmo as suggested by @SpaceBus here, i was done within 10min without taking the saw off the mill. I did three passes in a 10’ log in a nice and timely fashion. It was very satisfying.

Chain sharpness is even more important for milling. That might explain your heat/oiling issues.

 

[Diabel]

Those 6x6” 10’ posts are heavy!! I think I will need help to stand them up and brace them correctly. Also, my shed will be 10x20 with 2’ overhang on the sides and front. I would like to do a 3’ over hang at the back. My longest log in 12’ so I have a problem. My guy did drop couple of big hemlocks to the side of a hill. Did not bother cutting them down to 10’ - 12’ lengths. They are just there. Access is not easy and they are on the significant downhill slope. I can (with difficulty) cut my 15’ length and slab them to 2” thickness and push them downhill to my milling area. Then somehow cut the live edge and get my 2x6s.
The other option would be to splice the rafters but not sure that would work.

 

[Diabel]

Chain sharpness is even more important for milling. That might explain your heat/oiling issues.

It looks like 3/4 passes and I need to sharpen. All good.

 

[SpaceBus]

It looks like 3/4 passes and I need to sharpen. All good.

You will get better at it. The Granberg jig works pretty well, but it has some flaws. One such "flaw" is that the flex in the rod/jig will let you polish cutters instead of taking material away, especially if you have the Granberg wax lube. So far I haven't mastered my new Tecomec Super Jolly sharpening rig, but I was getting sharper chains with the Granberg setup.

 

[Nealm66]

Those 6x6” 10’ posts are heavy!! I think I will need help to stand them up and brace them correctly. Also, my shed will be 10x20 with 2’ overhang on the sides and front. I would like to do a 3’ over hang at the back. My longest log in 12’ so I have a problem. My guy did drop couple of big hemlocks to the side of a hill. Did not bother cutting them down to 10’ - 12’ lengths. They are just there. Access is not easy and they are on the significant downhill slope. I can (with difficulty) cut my 15’ length and slab them to 2” thickness and push them downhill to my milling area. Then somehow cut the live edge and get my 2x6s.
The other option would be to splice the rafters but not sure that would work.

If it’s possible, I’d roll it to the side with a pv and mill like normal. Those live edge are going to suck trying to move.

 

[SpaceBus]

I get worn out moving rough cut 4x4's! This spring I had a 6x6 Tamarack cant that I was sure would break my back.

 

[Diabel]

If it’s possible, I’d roll it to the side with a pv and mill like normal. Those live edge are going to suck trying to move.

Yeah, that would be best

 

[EbS-P]

If it’s possible, I’d roll it to the side with a pv and mill like normal. Those live edge are going to suck trying to move.

I found I could lay an appliance dolly down flat scoot the slab onto it. Then strap it to the dolly. I could by melyself move an 11’x32”x 1.25” slab.

 

[Diabel]

This is what I would have to tackle in order to get 15’ 2x6” for rafters.

 

[Diabel]

This is what I would have to tackle in order to get 15’ 2x6” for rafters.

 

[EbS-P]

View attachment 282105

Uhhhggg

 

[Nealm66]

Any safe way to yard them whole off the hill?

 

[Diabel]

Excavator, and they will be filthy with rocks etc

 

[Diabel]

Excavator, and they will be filthy with rocks etc

And of course it would be cheaper to buy the rafters than to pay the excavator guy.

 

[Nealm66]

Well, you’re going to earn them for sure. Dang, I shouldn’t say anything but I probably would have used those limby cuts for the support beams and kept my clears for the rafters but that’s just me. I’d consider doing 2x8”’s if it’s much of a span . Be careful on those and take your time

 

[Diabel]

Am I really out off base thinking that I could mill my 12’ rafters from the logs that I have readily available. Then mill some 5’ 2x6” s and screw/bolt/nail them together to get my 15’ lengths and get my 3’ back overhang. I can also brace it at the ends and middle.