Is 272xp enough saw for milling

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I’m not saying they are all bad but if the guys that hot rod them pull them out then so do I. Especially since I can’t seem to get the hang of using them. It sounds like the one you have has caused problems so it might be worth the 10$ to try although I get the easier starting thing. Ive had hot rodded saws that feel like the motors seized. I have them warmed up before I have them sent up a tree for sure
 
Why are we discussing the decomp valve? Edit: I see now.

Instead of plugging the decomp port just try a new Stihl decomp valve. I wouldn't run a big bore saw without it.
 
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Well, I am all ears. Trying to understand whatever info comes from members. We/I just learned that perhaps the decomp valve is useless and maybe destructive on Chinese saws. All good here
 
Well, I am all ears. Trying to understand whatever info comes from members. We/I just learned that perhaps the decomp valve is useless and maybe destructive on Chinese saws. All good here
Take another peek at the cylinder if you are worried. There really is no replacement for OEM parts on these big bore saws. A Stihl decomp valve should set you straight if that is the issue. Could also look at the cylinder from there instead of pulling the muffler.
 
Are you saying, replace the decomp valve with a plug. It sure will bw harder to pull, but that is ok if it is a common problem.
I’m not sure I’m man enough to start mine with no decomp. Suggestion is to replace with stihl OEM.
 
Have you checked that your plug wire boot is tight? Mine wasn’t but that would not explain easy to pull over. Plug is tight?
 
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Have you checked that your plug wire boot is tight? Mine wasn’t but that would not explain easy to pull over. Plug is tight?
Thank you all for being patient with me. The easy pull is what stumps me…when warm. Ok pull with resistance when cold.
 
It could very well be a faulty compression release. Not making seal when it gets hot. Why I brought it up. I can’t think of anything else that would explain maybe an oem part would do the trick and be worth it to try for you and maybe leave it running when it’s really hot and see if it’s loosing air through it to diagnose.
 
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Yes the decomp valve in the chin_ kits fail,the plastic falls off and the valve gets sucked into the cylinder.
Once it gets sucked in the piston and cylinder suffer damage.
Get one for a Husky 395 if you are having trouble starting it,they have the biggest opening.If starting it isn't an issue replace it with a Stihl one.
 
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I will get one on amazon.
Thank you
 
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Interesting observation. If I leave the saw outside for extended period of time (25/35f for the past few days), the saw will burp on second pull and start on third pull. If I bring the saw inside for say overnight and try starting it in the morning….forget it. Six seven pulls and nothing and at that point i smell gas. I will check for spark.

Also, if i try to start the saw without pressing the decomp button….oh my it is hard to pull, almost impossible. I will replace the decomp with a a plug but my it will be tough to pull.
 
After being inside is the compression similar to cold compression?
 
After being inside is the compression similar to cold compression?
I do not have a way to test the compression.
 
I once tried to start my 395xp without pressing the decomp valve, never again. Replace your decomp valve with a known good Stihl part if you think it could be contributing to problems. It's an easy thing to do.
 
I can definitely start my other saws without pressing decomp. But this one oh my! Replacing the decomp with a Stihl decomp sounds like a good idea. My arm will thank me for sure.
 
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Do you have an Autozone or O'Reilly nearby? They both loan/rent tools and should have a compression checker.
Autozone is near me.
 
The decomp for a husky 395 has a bigger opening then the Stihl ones.
That is the one most will put on a high compression ported saw.
 
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It is hard to explain, the saw worked great. Turned it off to refuel, pulled the starter rope and there was no piston resistance at all. It felt like there was something seriously broken, it sounded “harsh”. Left it for few hours, tried starting it, it burped ran for 5 seconds and stopped. Then when pulling the starter rope felt harsh again. Yesterday, it started beautiful after couple of pulls and idled for 3/4min. I turned it off as I had to go. Will start it again today and let it run longer.
Is your coil loose...or adjusted too tight to the flywheel?
It does sound like your coil is failing though...my MS290 would run for 3-5 minutes, then quit...no fire until cooled off again. I bought a used Stihl OEM coil rather than risk it on an aftermarket coil.
I will get one on amazon.
Thank you
You mean the decomp, or coil? I'd buy OEM on both...the chinese decomps are not reliable and when they fail it makes a nice hole in your piston...maybe bent rod too...not worth it.
I can start my Farmertec kit MS660 without the decomp, but it hurts if you don't do it right...and tends to break pull start cords...
 
Is your coil loose...or adjusted too tight to the flywheel?
It does sound like your coil is failing though...my MS290 would run for 3-5 minutes, then quit...no fire until cooled off again. I bought a used Stihl OEM coil rather than risk it on an aftermarket coil.

You mean the decomp, or coil? I'd buy OEM on both...the chinese decomps are not reliable and when they fail it makes a nice hole in your piston...maybe bent rod too...not worth it.
I can start my Farmertec kit MS660 without the decomp, but it hurts if you don't do it right...and tends to break pull start cords...
From Amazon I was going to get the plug. But you guys convinced me to get the oem decomp and while I am at the dealer I will pick up the oem coil for the 660. I think I would figure our how to start it without the decomp but as you said the pull rope is a weak point on these saws and pulling it hard would for sure shorten its life.
 
Getting ready to help a friend mill some logs into cants that are too big for his bandsaw

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