Is my stacking plan any good?

[cabinner]

I want to to cut some standing dead trees, split them, and stack them, this weekend. I know timing is off but it is what it is...

Anyhow, I am in upstate NY so plenty of snow. I was thinking to buy some cinder blocks put them on the ground as level as I can then stack the split wood over it in the tower (?) method:
(broken link removed to http://www.wearedesignbureau.com/test/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/shutterstock_71568121.jpg)

I'll do two rows about 5 ft tall.

Then I will put a metal roofing panel on top with a couple of cinder blocks.

Thoughts? Tips? Notes?

 

[bigbarf48]

Sounds okay to me but perhaps someone with more snow experience will chime in

I have a couple stacks that are similar, just cinder blocks with 2x lumber run across them and they've held up fine

 

[firefighterjake]

If I am reading this right . . . you plan to buy a bunch of cinder blocks, put them down level and then build a stack on top of them by cross stacking them (tower method as you called it . . . I always called it cribbing, end cribbing or cross stack)? \

It would be far easier to do as bigbarf suggested and use the same cinder blocks with some dimensional lumber to make a "row" with cribbed ends or T-bar . . . or to go with pallets and stack on them. I think you would get more wood into a stack by just using the cribbed ends.

Also, I might suggest limiting your height to 4 feet or so . . . although 5 feet probably isn't too crazy. Generally, the higher you go the more unstable the stack will be . . . I think it's Murphy's Law or something . . . same rule applies that says as soon as you finish stacking all your wood there will be something to cause half of it to fall over causing you to have to restack it.

 

[cabinner]

What does it mean to do "cribbed ends"? Can you show a photo?

 

[firefighterjake]

What does it mean to do "cribbed ends"? Can you show a photo?

Yes.

 

[cabinner]

Let me see if I ge this right.... You buidl 4 "towers" - two on each side and then you just pile the other wood in the middle so it is supported by those towers?

 

[firefighterjake]

Let me see if I ge this right.... You buidl 4 "towers" - two on each side and then you just pile the other wood in the middle so it is supported by those towers?

Pretty much . . . although I find most of the stack in the middle supports itself if you do it right . . . there is not a lot of pressure on the end cribbing. Also, I tend to build the end cribbing as I go along vs. building them first and then filling them in. As I stack up the wood gets pushed in a little so there is a bit of a lean towards the middle . . . seems to help as the wood shrinks from drying.

I tend to use pallets . . . 1) they're cheap . . . well free and 2) they're a stable platform for me to build on.

 

[paul bunion]

I'm not sure if you mean there'd is snow on the ground now or there is snow in general. If there is now you will want to be sure your blocks are on the ground. If there is any snow under them your stacks can get unstable and possibly tumble when it melts out.

The roofing setup should work fine. Be aware that very high winds can pick up that roofing even with a few blocks on it.

 

[Standingdead]

I think stacking "styles" are a function of amount of wood you burn and time to cure. Now if these standing deads are to be burned next winter then single stacks 4 foot high with top cover works. Cider blocks are ok but doubled up pallets are easier and the pallets are generally availble for free. Some large volumn burners will stack 4-6 rows wide in long and high 8-10 foot high stacks. Given three years the entire stack will be cured with the aid of wind and sun. For instance burners consuming 10 cords a year (30-40 cords drying inventory) generally don't have the space for small single row stacks. Key thing is to use whatever method works to get your wood to 15-20% moisture. I use big stacks, on a sandy hill adjacent to open fields, windy, full sun, no cover. I think location is as important to how you stack.

 

[red oak]

I think stacking "styles" are a function of amount of wood you burn and time to cure. Now if these standing deads are to be burned next winter then single stacks 4 foot high with top cover works. Cider blocks are ok but doubled up pallets are easier and the pallets are generally availble for free. Some large volumn burners will stack 4-6 rows wide in long and high 8-10 foot high stacks. Given three years the entire stack will be cured with the aid of wind and sun. For instance burners consuming 10 cords a year (30-40 cords drying inventory) generally don't have the space for small single row stacks. Key thing is to use whatever method works to get your wood to 15-20% moisture. I use big stacks, on a sandy hill adjacent to open fields, windy, full sun, no cover. I think location is as important to how you stack.

Spot on in my opinion, although I do feel bad for those who have to burn over 10 cords per winter!

 

[JP11]

Spot on in my opinion, although I do feel bad for those who have to burn over 10 cords per winter!

Don't feel bad. Mine goes from the splitter to a pallet. From a pallet to the boiler. All other "handling" is done a third of cord at a time from the cab of the tractor.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

What does it mean to do "cribbed ends"? Can you show a photo?

Here we simply cut some saplings in the woods, lay down two of them and stack the wood. We do our splitting and stacking in the spring. Stack at 4 1/2' then wait. Usually around the first of December, we then top cover with old galvanized roofing. As you can see, we usually stack 3 rows together and they are 9' rows because the roofing is 10' long. This has worked well for many, many moons. We also try to always stay at least 3 years ahead on our wood piles. Doing this, we use less wood to get the needed heat and we also keep our chimney clean without having to brush it very often.

 

[cabinner]

Great tips and info. Thank you!

Luckily this is just a weekend cabin so I don't need so much wood. I do though, want to make sure it is dried really well. Had issues with that early on.

 

[Standingdead]

Don't feel bad. Mine goes from the splitter to a pallet. From a pallet to the boiler. All other "handling" is done a third of cord at a time from the cab of the tractor.

How do you secure the facecord while presumably driving over uneven ground?

 

[JP11]

3 pallets form a U

two braces across the top of the U. I use whatever is laying around. 2x4. Best is a 1x8 or so board.

all the stress from the stack is OUT on the side of the U. so it holds via the top boards.

Wood is 24" so two rows. works out to 3.3 pallets per cord.

JP

Pic is a ways away… but it's all I have now.