jotul 602 burn temp

[stovepipe?]

anyone with 602 experience out there? I've just put one in and am getting a feel for how it runs. what do you find to be the optimal temp on your 602 when mesured on the stove top? what counts as an overfiring temp on this stove? I've also got an F3CB and the 602 seems to run quite a bit hotter-- I imagine, though, this may just be a function of stove construction and how hot the surface gets, not so much of the temp of the burn in the firebox. so... any thoughts from seasoned 602 users? thanks

 

[begreen]

I ran an older 602 for several years and the F3CB after that. They are really different animals. The 602 feeds the air to the log ends and directs the flame through the wood. It wants to burn hotter, you need to watch it closely with a fresh load of wood. I added a stack damper to mine and that helped a bit. There were a couple times when mine would exceed sane levels. It got dark red (cranberry enameled stove) and gets that "I'm too hot" smell. Great little stove, but it like to be paid attention to.

 

[webbie]

A small stove like that could get pretty hot - maybe even floor the thermometer (900) on the cooking plate - but I would think that 600-750 top surface temps would be more normal.

 

[precaud]

Do you have the old 602, or the new F602? They really are quite different animals, burn-temp wise.

 

[stovepipe?]

the new 602 (I think)-- bought it a year ago, glass door on the front, etc

 

[precaud]

Ah, ok. The new one is almost impossible to overfire, unless you do something dumb like burn a load with the front air control wide open. Mine's humming along nicely as I type Some interesting things I've discovered:

Contrary to what the manual says, the "primary air" is actually the air that comes in over the top of the glass and washes it. The front air control is really more for startup air. I get the cleanest and longest burn by shutting down the front air control once the load is burning well. To make sure this works, the glass must not be loose - tap it to see if it rattles. If so, remove the air manifold inside the door at the top and dress the gasket (triple fold it) so it holds the glass firmly against the door on both sides.

The big problem with the F602 is that, due to the small firebox size, it gets clogged with coals quickly. Hardwoods exacerbate the problem. I get best results burning cedar and it's juniper relative. Their embers fall apart and burn off quickly as the log burns front to back.

 

[stovepipe?]

thanks, precaud and others-- all very helpful. precaud, do you measure the surface temp with a stove thermometer? at what temp does your stove normally run? The only guidence the manual gives is to say that the temp inside the firebox must be 1000 plus. fine, but it's not clear what that translates to for surface temp. manual also says not to close down the air inlet completely-- perhaps you have very good draft? so what surface temps do you find to be min, optimal and max for good secondary burn with out overfiring?

thanks

 

[precaud]

do you measure the surface temp with a stove thermometer? at what temp does your stove normally run?

Yes, but I don't pay much attention to it anymore. I have it between the cooking plate and the flue collar. Once the stove is warmed up, it runs in the 500-750 range. Like Web said, if you put it on the cooking plate, it will be well over 900F.

The only guidence the manual gives is to say that the temp inside the firebox must be 1000 plus. fine, but it's not clear what that translates to for surface temp.

I think that's your clue not to worry too much about surface temps. The firebox warms up quickly on this small a stove and secondary burn happens well before the top comes up to normal temps...

manual also says not to close down the air inlet completely--

Well obviously I disagree... Also, the air inlet has a tendency to push air toward the left side of the stove, causing it to burn hotter on that side and leaving unburned wood on the right rear. With the inlet closed I get complete, even, and cleaner burns. Try it!

perhaps you have very good draft?

I don't think a 14 ft. lined SS chimney at 7000 ft. altitude is a recipe for overdrafting What is your chimney setup?

One saleperson at the local Jotul dealer has the F602 in his living room, vented into a 12 ft. unlined masonry chimney. He says he HAS to run the front air control nearly wide open to get it to burn well. Obviously he has insufficient draft...

so what surface temps do you find to be min, optimal and max for good secondary burn with out overfiring?

Again, I wouldn't worry about overfiring it. The hottest I've ever seen mine is 800F, with a load of very sappy pine. The old 602 was a little blast furnace and had a tendency to run away. The new one is a much more sedate heater, pretty well designed to cruise in its operating range without much fiddling by the operator.

 

[precaud]

Let me see if I understand this correctly - You completely close off all air sources within your control, and let the air wash supply the oxygen to the fire?

Well, I have secondary air control on mine (modded), so technically, no... But, yes, once the fire is established, the airwash is the only supply feeding the fire directly. It's more than enough - there are times I wished I could lower it a tad, even.

 

[begreen]

Super info on the newest version Precaud. I learned a lot, thanks!

 

[stovepipe?]

thanks, precaud, for the detailed answers. this is really helpful-- I will try your approach.

 

[Angus]

I have a 602, its a great wee stove and I never burn it too hot, if you need to do that then you need a jotul 118 in its place.
Only thing to watch is if I fall down drunk and forget to close the air vent on the way down to meet the floor, then it may overheat (well thats normal for us Scottish) Slainte