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Riverman

New Member
Sep 29, 2016
17
Michigan
Hi- newbie here!

I have been cruising the forums for a couple of weeks and have enjoyed and appreciated all the info that I have found here. I am purchasing a "new to me" wood stove for my cabin (just under 1000 sq ft) and have found a few on craigslist locally.

One that caught my attention was a Jotul #8 that seems to be in good shape and priced reasonably. I have tried to find out what square footage these stoves are rated for but I am coming up short. The seller is guessing 1800 sq ft but that seems high to me.

Any help? Any other suggestions for a good used stove priced around $500 (give or take) that will be used mostly for spring/fall. The cabin is in the upper peninsula of MI and I shut it down from late October to April.

There is also a Jotul 602N nearby but I am worried that the small firebox will be an issue for the wood usually get up there.

Thanks!
 

Lake Girl

Moderator
Nov 12, 2011
6,939
NW Ontario
Welcome to the forum! Jotul 8 series looks to be approximately 1500 sq ft / 45,000 btu max/hour per the last page of the manual found here:
http://jotul.com/us/guides/identify-your-old-jøtul-product-and-user-manuals

There is a second manual(1097 version) there that states Jotul 8 series tested at heat ranges between 12,600 and 33,000 btu.

Same info sheet with the sq ft for the 8 states that the 602 is 800 sq ft / 28,000 btu max/hour.

I'm sure the wood stove guys will be along with real life experience with some of these stoves...
 
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begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
93,801
South Puget Sound, WA
The Jotul 8 had several variations. It would be good to get the full model number. (If it has the spin wheel air control then it is the original model.) The later variants were closer to the current Jotul Castine in performance. There is also a catalytic variant. Based on the time period specified the stove should work out ok. If you think you may want to extend the season then go larger. When the cabin is unheated when unoccupied, it takes a lot of btus to bring everything up to temperature.
 

Riverman

New Member
Sep 29, 2016
17
Michigan
Thanks for the info. The stove is an early #8 manufactured in 1984 and has the spin wheel. I think that if it's rated for 1500 sq ft it may be too much stove for my cabin.
 

Lake Girl

Moderator
Nov 12, 2011
6,939
NW Ontario
You've got a Meridian in your pic don't you?:)

Edit: You can always build a smaller fire ... Can't put out enough heat if the stove isn't big enough in the first place!
 

Riverman

New Member
Sep 29, 2016
17
Michigan
I'm not sure what the stove is. It came in the trailer I bought and was probably installed in the mid 70s. The trailer is gone but I still have the stove. I don't think it's as fancy as a Meridian.
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
93,801
South Puget Sound, WA
It will be fine for the cabin. You'll appreciate having extra capacity when the temps are low and the wind is blowing.
 
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Riverman

New Member
Sep 29, 2016
17
Michigan
It will be fine for the cabin. You'll appreciate having extra capacity when the temps are low and the wind is blowing.

Thanks- I'm not sure how to figure out whether or not I'm getting good value for the price since I'm new to this and prices seem to vary a lot from state to state and year to year. Right now I am looking at the 1984 #8 ($600), around 2000 602N ($500) and an older but unknown date Englander 13 NC-CLP ($400). Both the 8 and the 13 come with some pipe. It seems like it's probably hard to advise specifically on a stove choice but if you have any feedback that would be swell. I think I might be able to get the sellers a bit lower too.
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
93,801
South Puget Sound, WA
The 13NC will be the most efficient as long as it is not beat and worn out. It will also be the most insistent on dry wood and a decent flue height (15 ft or more). I would be a little shy on the 602N. The earliest models had issues with the secondary rack warping and burning out.
 
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Riverman

New Member
Sep 29, 2016
17
Michigan
The 13NC will be the most efficient as long as it is not beat and worn out. It will also be the most insistent on dry wood and a decent flue height (15 ft or more). I would be a little shy on the 602N. The earliest models had issues with the secondary rack warping and burning out.

Thanks- I know the 602 has new burn plates but I haven't been able to get the seller to send pics so I don't know the overall shape. Same with the 13. I'm doing a lot of renovating/building to the cabin this year so that's why I'm looking for a cheaper used stove as my budget is already pretty eaten up. I'm hoping to get more info from the seller on the 13 tonight or tomorrow. Seems like a lot of folks like that stove.
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
93,801
South Puget Sound, WA
Understood. Just don't scrimp on the chimney or stove pipe + hearth requirements. The 13NC has a pretty stiff R=2.0 hearth requirement. Also watch the clearance requirements. They vary a lot from stove to stove. One option would be to just go with a chill chaser. It won't provide overnight burns but will warm the place up in Oct or April. The Englander 17VL is under $649 new at Home Depot or $535 remanuf. and about 1.1 cu ft.
http://www.amfmenergy.com/50epacenowos.html

Is this the only source of heat or is there something to supplement?
 

Riverman

New Member
Sep 29, 2016
17
Michigan
Understood. Just don't scrimp on the chimney or stove pipe + hearth requirements. The 13NC has a pretty stiff R=2.0 hearth requirement. Also watch the clearance requirements. They vary a lot from stove to stove. One option would be to just go with a chill chaser. It won't provide overnight burns but will warm the place up in Oct or April. The Englander 17VL is under $649 new at Home Depot or $535 remanuf. and about 1.1 cu ft.
http://www.amfmenergy.com/50epacenowos.html

Is this the only source of heat or is there something to supplement?

Good advice, thanks- Well, it's difficult to explain the set up I am building but I will try.

I have a 12x40 park model RV that I am building into a 22x42 structure, basically a pole barn with a concrete pad (the stove would be on the pad). The trailer has propane forced air but the "addition" will have nothing and that's where the stove is going. A stove should be able to heat into the trailer though since it's basically inside the building and has 2 windows, a door, and a doorwall facing into the addition and everything will be sealed and secured into a single structure.

i know this sounds a little wonky but I'm working a contractor and within code and I am not installing anything in the trailer itself.

Does that make sense?
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
93,801
South Puget Sound, WA
Yes, so the stove area would be only used in milder weather?
 

Riverman

New Member
Sep 29, 2016
17
Michigan
Yes, so the stove area would be only used in milder weather?

The stove area would be used during the same months as the trailer. I have the cabin open from roughly April-November but in the upper peninsula of Michigan it can be pretty cold late into spring and early into fall. If I can do a good enough job insulating around the trailer I might try and keep it open a little longer into fall but can't imagine going December-March. I would have to keep too much propane going and wouldn't use it enough.

I am hoping that whatever stove I end up with will provide heat for the trailer too. Like I mentioned it's basically all one dwelling but the stove will be in the large room.

I have checked out the 17 but just like the 602 I am a little hesitant that it tops out at 16" logs. Even the seller of the 602 said that has been a problem for him and he cuts his own.
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
93,801
South Puget Sound, WA
If on a slab, given those parameters I would get the 13NC, remanufactured with warranty. At $600 this is your best deal. Just be sure to have dry wood on hand and have at least a 15ft tall flue, straight up is the best.

To improve heat circulation and reduce the heat in the stove area put a table or box fan in a cooler room within sight of the stove room, placed on the floor, pointing toward the woodstove room. Run it on low speed. It will blow the cooler air down low, toward the woodstove. The denser cool air will be replaced with lighter warm air from the stove room. Running this way you should notice at least a 5F increase in the room temp after about 30 minutes running. And the stove room temp should drop by a corresponding 5+ degrees.

http://www.amfmenergy.com/50tnc13----epa-certified-noncatalytic-wood-stove--1850131801.html
 

Riverman

New Member
Sep 29, 2016
17
Michigan
If on a slab, given those parameters I would get the 13NC, remanufactured with warranty. At $600 this is your best deal. Just be sure to have dry wood on hand and have at least a 15ft tall flue, straight up is the best.

To improve heat circulation and reduce the heat in the stove area put a table or box fan in a cooler room within sight of the stove room, placed on the floor, pointing toward the woodstove room. Run it on low speed. It will blow the cooler air down low, toward the woodstove. The denser cool air will be replaced with lighter warm air from the stove room. Running this way you should notice at least a 5F increase in the room temp after about 30 minutes running. And the stove room temp should drop by a corresponding 5+ degrees.

http://www.amfmenergy.com/50tnc13----epa-certified-noncatalytic-wood-stove--1850131801.html

Ok, thanks- are you implying the used one that I'm looking at, if in good condition, is inferior to a new one feature wise? I'm not sure what the difference is but I know they have different model designations.
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
93,801
South Puget Sound, WA
If the used one is in excellent condition and the baffle is relatively new then it might be ok but personally I would buy the new one that I provided a link for. It will probably save you money in the long run and there will be no worries about inheriting someone else's problems or abuse.
 

Riverman

New Member
Sep 29, 2016
17
Michigan
If the used one is in excellent condition and the baffle is relatively new then it might be ok but personally I would buy the new one that I provided a link for. It will probably save you money in the long run and there will be no worries about inheriting someone else's problems or abuse.

Yes. That's the conclusion I think I have reached. Thanks for all you help!
 
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