Jotul f500 gen 1 rebuild

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johnnywoodbutcher

New Member
Oct 26, 2026
3
HearthPass1!
Greetings to all! I have a Jotul OSLO F500 G1 serial #010843. Im about to start fixing up. I greatly appreciate all expert advice and experience. I know I need a new top plate gasket for the oval plate. Does the oval lid also need bolts/clips in the two holes to hold in place? I removed the disintegrating insulation blanket on top of the steel baffle plates, I know I will need one of those as well. The front door handle is very hard to turn. The stove is rusty and will need sanding and painting. I was planning to use a wire wheel and steel wool, then thermolux stove paint or whatever is recommended to be the best.

Does anyone see anything else that appears to be missing? Should I change all the gaskets anyway even if they look good? What should I be looking for on this stove

Is this stove worth fixing up? I paid $500 for it.
 

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It's a shame that the stove was neglected like this. It doesn't look too bad outside of the rust. Yes, get a complete gasket kit. @D. Hermit sells the proper kit on eBay. Wipe down the firebox floor with a damp rag. Then inspect for hairline cracks in the base around the edges of the grate. If none, that's a good start. Stove Brite metallic or satin black look good on Jotuls. Not sure about the Thurmolox equivalent, but that is also good.
 
It's a shame that the stove was neglected like this. It doesn't look too bad outside of the rust. Yes, get a complete gasket kit. @D. Hermit sells the proper kit on eBay. Wipe down the firebox floor with a damp rag. Then inspect for hairline cracks in the base around the edges of the grate. If none, that's a good start. Stove Brite metallic or satin black look good on Jotuls. Not sure about the Thurmolox equivalent, but that is also good.
The stove is not in that bad of shape in my opinion. The rust is surface rust from my helper sanding it in preparation for paint. It sat in the shop for a few days after he had sanded it and I the Georgia humidity was enough to rust it.

I looked in the bottom around the grate, there are no cracks. What is the proper technique to installing the gasket correctly? They always seem to fall out after a season. I've tried the rutland stove gasket cement in a caulk tube and the clear cement in a small squeeze bottle. I sanded and wipe the channel with alcohol first.

How can i message D.Hermit. I tried to use the message function on this forum but it would only let me send to admin
 
The stove is not in that bad of shape in my opinion. The rust is surface rust from my helper sanding it in preparation for paint. It sat in the shop for a few days after he had sanded it and I the Georgia humidity was enough to rust it.

I looked in the bottom around the grate, there are no cracks. What is the proper technique to installing the gasket correctly? They always seem to fall out after a season. I've tried the rutland stove gasket cement in a caulk tube and the clear cement in a small squeeze bottle. I sanded and wipe the channel with alcohol first.

How can i message D.Hermit. I tried to use the message function on this forum but it would only let me send to admin
High temp silicone works best for door gasket
 
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I've had good success using red RTV for the door gasket.

You will be able to direct message another hearth.com member after 3 moderated posts. Almost there.
 
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Using it as a glue for the rope gasket by laying down a moderate (1/4"?) bead in the channel and then laying the rope gasket into the rtv without stretching the gasket. Rutland sells a black silicone gasket cement if this is prefered. I haven't tried that.
 
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D. hermits website. Personally i would wire brush, wipe, and use gasket cement.
Here is the instructions for gasket size.

I am rebuilding a v1 oslo. All of the parts are cleaned and painted. Im actually trying to figure out how much stove cement to apply in on the bottom plates?
Also how tight should the screws be when assembling. Im assumming the ol "goodenTight" will work since there are no torque specs?
 

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