Granted that this year has been one of the warmest in the Northeast, but so far this year I have used 320 less gallons of oil. So I am about $1000 ahead of the game after wood expenses. Already owned the chainsaw and splitting maul. Would like to get a real splitter, time will tell on that, maybe an electric one, but I agree that the savings will accrue over time to cover the equipment expenses
Just bought a cord of not actually seasoned wood...
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Investmentdude
Member
I’m running Boston in 31 days and I can’t tell you how much chopping about 7 cords of oak by hand has done for my core. My back is helping me run so much stronger. Chopping wood is GOOD for us.
Just because something is 'seasoned' doesn't mean it's dry. So when a seller says it's seasoned they mean it's been sitting outside for a time. They're not lying. Gotta get specific.
I also think they may have added salt and pepper, some garlic....
I don't know how you're calculating the payoff in equipment. I got a 1000$ in saws, gear, etc over the last 12 years, and my non-wood heating cost is well over 1000$ for a single year. Yeah, I pay in time and sore muscles, but I stay warm during power outages and get a lot of neat wood for my WW hobby. I'm far from 18, and I've long since earned that 1000$ many times over. No comparison.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
The thing about gear is that there’s usually some resale value, but post-inflation. If I spent $50k on my tractor, but resell it 20 years later for $50k, there is still expense in lost opportunity and inflation.
Log splitters, chain saws, firewood trailers, and tractors all resale at some amount between half and full original purchase price, ignoring inflation.
Log splitters, chain saws, firewood trailers, and tractors all resale at some amount between half and full original purchase price, ignoring inflation.
I agree. I’m like you. I account for my savings annually based on how much oil I don’t burn and the savings is a few thousand dollars/season.
Also minimum equipment is totally sufficient for most homeowners/wood burners. A wheel barrow, a maul/splitting ax, leather gloves and an inexpensive chainsaw is totally sufficient. You don’t need a truck although it helps for scroungers like me. You don’t need a $2000 log splitter although it’s nice to have.
Wood sheds are not necessary either. Stacks on 2x4s with tarps cover the tops are totally sufficient.
I’m just saying we don’t need a lot of the things we like to have. Minimal equipment is generally sufficient for wood burning.
lml999
Minister of Fire
I picked up a commercial splitter rental on a Saturday morning, returned it Monday morning, paid $80 for the privilege. Far better, in my case, than buying, storing and maintaining one.
With regard to the shed...at our old house we kept our wood on a covered porch. That was pretty good. For the past 6 years I dealt with stacks and tarps, then built a six cord wood shed last fall. It's a game changer. Just steps from the garage door, easy access to dry wood, no screwing with tarps. If you have the room, do it.
(and you can do it really cheaply, or the deluxe version with all sorts of add-ons. )
In this day and age not sure how one can build a 6 cord shed cheaply. You also should have the right spot with wind direction and sun. I have 4 cord now 5th coming. All top covered. My tarp method works well for me.I picked up a commercial splitter rental on a Saturday morning, returned it Monday morning, paid $80 for the privilege. Far better, in my case, than buying, storing and maintaining one.
With regard to the shed...at our old house we kept our wood on a covered porch. That was pretty good. For the past 6 years I dealt with stacks and tarps, then built a six cord wood shed last fall. It's a game changer. Just steps from the garage door, easy access to dry wood, no screwing with tarps. If you have the room, do it.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
My first two 4-cord sheds cost $1k/ea, pre-COVID. My last last two cost almost exactly $2k each, post-COVID.
My 7-ish cord shed cost about $2200. This was March 2020.
And while my tarps worked okay, the shed is so much better I'd never go back to tarps. Both in terms of drying, stacking ease, maintenance (tarp vs wind), and aesthetics.
And while my tarps worked okay, the shed is so much better I'd never go back to tarps. Both in terms of drying, stacking ease, maintenance (tarp vs wind), and aesthetics.
My buddy is a carpenter and told me the same. Since where I would want the wood shed it does not have the best sun etc if I did build one in the future it would be more for the finished product vs where my stacks are located for seasoning (sun and wind).
My commercial tarps are folded some more than once and barely hang over. Some only 4-6”. No wind issues. Look neat and easy to access with bricks hanging from para cord. That’s $2,200 in my pocket that can buy 7 to 8 cord. My stacks are also labeled by year. Don’t need to worry about what is what in a shed. Always trade offs in what you do. If anything my stacks should dry better than multiple rows in a shed. Many of my single row stacks are gray and cracking after a year.
My wind may be higher.
Wood only becomes gray (here) if it repeatedly gets wet. Mine in the shed does not and does not get gray. Gray is mold that grew because it was wet for too long.
I have 3-4" space between stacks in the shed that's open on all sides (but with large overhang so no rain gets to it). wood gets to be below 20 pct for oak and below 17 pct for other. I had tarped stacks (rows of 2) before, and my shed dries waaaay better.
But yes, it cost money. I see mine as a mental health investment (built during first lockdown and no tarpsl check-in needed for deterioration).
I don't worry about anything; I stack wood in a bay (3 bay shed, one bay usage per year) and I come back three years after to get it. So no label needed, just use the next bay.
All I can say that the experimental data here say otherwise. The stacks are exactly in the same position, orientation, sun exposure, and there is more space between the stacks in the shed. (I had double stacked rows with tarps where they were within 1-2" from each other but now they have 3-4" for the wind.)
The wood did get gray in the tarped stacks where wind blew the rain against the cut ends, but does not in the shed where the cut ends stay dry.
Evidently your mileage may vary
The wood did get gray in the tarped stacks where wind blew the rain against the cut ends, but does not in the shed where the cut ends stay dry.
Evidently your mileage may vary
Interesting since online websites state seasoned wood can have a grayish hue to it. We also have guys on here that leave stacks uncovered for years and only cover in the Fall before use and their wood is well seasoned. A guy near me must have 10 cord cross stacked in the open on pallets must be at least 40 feet long all uncovered. I think the bottom line is if no matter what you do if the wood is 20 or under it really does not matter what method you do. My dad is 91 always top covered without a shed we always had well seasoned wood.
I completely agree that one can season wood that way. I e. Get it dry enough.
I never said you can't. I did so too. In my situation it just works better with the shed, and there are some interesting differences.
I never said you can't. I did so too. In my situation it just works better with the shed, and there are some interesting differences.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I’ve noticed the same as @stoveliker. I didn’t know it was from water, I had assumed UV damage, but I only see wood stacked in the open turning gray. The 4-year seasoned oak I was using this year was still the same golden color, albeit a slightly lighter hue, as when I had split and stacked it in the shed, in spring 2019.
mpaul
Feeling the Heat
Have to agree too. I have about 5 cords of wood stored under my deck. I have a roof on the bottom side of the deck but a few of the end pieces ultimately get exposed to some wet weather.
All same wood css at same time. The wood under the roof has the original wood coloring whereas the wood that is getting wet has turned gray.
All same wood css at same time. The wood under the roof has the original wood coloring whereas the wood that is getting wet has turned gray.
All my end splits that are exposed to full day sun are starting to have a grayish hue to it. The ends that don’t have maximum sunlight are more a light tan. Checking on each side. I notice my tree company massive piles splits on top are grayish color. Sure the top gets wet but the sun’s UV rays almost bleaches the wood. He said the top of the pile will be more seasoned which makes sense.
Wooddad.com has a great pic of seasoned wood with a grey tint. “Seasoned wood usually develops a faded gray color, after losing moisture”
Wooddad.com has a great pic of seasoned wood with a grey tint. “Seasoned wood usually develops a faded gray color, after losing moisture”
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But how much sun is hitting your wood under your deck? I also keep just over a 1/3 under my deck emergency wood with no sun and my splits are not grey.
This is wood of the same age. One was stacked for one season under tarps with the ends getting rained on, in this place. The other was not. Same location, sun exposure.
Yes, different species, but I've seen the same regardless of species . Not denying anything, just showing the data of the experiment here.
![[Hearth.com] Just bought a cord of not actually seasoned wood...](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/312/312926-398905e5e884648b468878c48c3d6372.jpg?hash=MpzGCuQ_HI "[Hearth.com] Just bought a cord of not actually seasoned wood...")
Yes, different species, but I've seen the same regardless of species . Not denying anything, just showing the data of the experiment here.
Interesting since the pic on the left looks like my splits without lots of sun exposure. Full sun splits look like on the right. I found multiple sites that state seasoned wood can turn gray color so either way along that it is under 20 I’ll be happy. There are guys that leave their wood uncovered for years before top cover. Wonder how their wood looks in 3 years.
Left is same sun as right for me..(left even slightly more sun because of some shade.onnthe right in shoulder season).
Top (some shading by 2 ft roof overhang) and bottom look the same. More or less. The very bottom row can sometimes be a bit grayish, but not nearly as.much as the right bay that had seen rain in its tarped stacks.
Folks that leave it uncovered will likely be gray like my right hand side.
If you can prevent rain on the cut ends, things will dry faster (a system like peakbaggers might work for that). Water can't get out of wood when the surface is wet.
But maybe it's not worth the increase in drying speed. I didn't take numbers. (E.g. 6 weeks earlier is not worth the hassle)
For me i just like the not having to check tarps. But it cost me.(wood is free here tho, and it had double purpose in keeping me sane during COVID lockdown when I was working at home, teaching kids, and trying to keep my wife on her feet working in a nursing home..., and now for just not having to check if tarps have to be replaced, repositioned, or otherwise secured).
Top (some shading by 2 ft roof overhang) and bottom look the same. More or less. The very bottom row can sometimes be a bit grayish, but not nearly as.much as the right bay that had seen rain in its tarped stacks.
Folks that leave it uncovered will likely be gray like my right hand side.
If you can prevent rain on the cut ends, things will dry faster (a system like peakbaggers might work for that). Water can't get out of wood when the surface is wet.
But maybe it's not worth the increase in drying speed. I didn't take numbers. (E.g. 6 weeks earlier is not worth the hassle)
For me i just like the not having to check tarps. But it cost me.(wood is free here tho, and it had double purpose in keeping me sane during COVID lockdown when I was working at home, teaching kids, and trying to keep my wife on her feet working in a nursing home..., and now for just not having to check if tarps have to be replaced, repositioned, or otherwise secured).
