Kozy Heat thermal switch..UPDATE

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struggle

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Oct 24, 2006
727
NW Iowa
For those that remember last year I was having issues with my Kozy Heat Masonary fan rattling and the issue of what to do about the fan being sealed in by marble blocks as there was no servicable vent/grate to access the fan.

Well now I have removed the front blocks out and bought from a HVAC store a fan kit that our unit #234 calls for and it comes with a thermal on off switch.

What I have done so far is wired in a bypass of the switch so I can turn it on directly or let the switch do the work for me which is what I would prefer to do.

The directions say put the switch where ever on the bottom and then move accordingly to what temp we would like the fans to turn on at. This is new to me as the past set up was just a speed adjust on off slider switch. Soo am I going to like the thermal set up and about where on the bottom of the fire box would be a good starting point ( it has a magnet on the thermal switch)? This unit has an ash dump so dead center is not possible. It claims to turn the fan on when temp rises above 90 degrees.

How long would one expect it to take for the fan to turn on automatically starting from a cold fire as the firebox is brick lined? Just trying to get an idea on what to expect. I like the idea of the fan running after we go to bed so we can get the most out of it.


Also where could one get a custom made cover for the front of the intake area for the fans? It is about 32" long and 9" tall square. I do not want to reinsert the blocks as then I will have to chip mortor away again is service is needed for the fans.

Tonight I fired up the Kozy Heat with the new blower fans installed and thermal switch as close to the center as one could get. It worked very well as it turned on in less than one hour but since since it is a masonary fire place it actually turned on to early so I will move the switch tomorrow further out from the center. The base of the fire place was warm but the upper masonary sections were still cool and it seemed a waste to have the fan on so early. I am though very pleased that it worked this way than it taking to long to activate.

Also I bought a gasket kit for the glass on the doors and the door gaskets as well. It was money well spent as I have known that the glass gaskets were not good and after I took the doors out to the garage I found that the better part of 50% of the gaskets on the glass were actually gone. THe door seals were OK but the new gaskets all the way around was worth while. So check those gasket!!

I figure the gaskets had never been serviced as the we bought this house from the original owners and have found they neglected stuff like this. Fireplace was built in 1985. THe glass gaskets on the Kozy heat are flat felt like strips and held in by silicone and the instructions and package included silicone. THe original was done in silicone.

I know it has been kind of debated here about using silicone for gasket and I never though these would be done that way but the original silicone on the door gasket was still very flexy which surprised me. It must work if they are still calling for it 20+ year later.
 
I have one mounted on the side of the Englander and it takes between twenty and thirty minutes for it to start the blower. Which is about right for getting the firebox up to temp. You have given me an idea. I am going to try it under the firebox this year. Out of sight.

You're gonna love it for being able to go off to bed knowing that the fan will shut down when the stove cools down.
 
On the Northstar and 7100 which are EPA wood fireplaces, the temp disc I think is 130F, its right in the center and it takes a while for it to come on. Have to have a good hot fire. I would get the disc as close to where the fire and coal bed will be.
 
I'm not sure as to the first question. Best to use a thermometer to judge this. If I were to guestimate, maybe 20-30 minutes depending on the fire?

What material would you like the intake cover to be made of or resemble? Brass, antique brass, etc?
 
BeGreen said:
I'm not sure as to the first question. Best to use a thermometer to judge this. If I were to guestimate, maybe 20-30 minutes depending on the fire?

What material would you like the intake cover to be made of or resemble? Brass, antique brass, etc?

Black and metal of some sort I figured.

I think I could make one out of wood since it is in a cool area but was not sure if there are companies that specailize in making things like this and to what cost.
 
If you can give me accurate opening dimensions, I think I can point you to some metal grates that will work. I researched this last summer and found some very nice grates out there.

(broken link removed to http://www.coldairreturns.com/index.html)
 
Be Green,

Thanks for the link. All I was able to find when I looked was mostly for older home set ups. I guess what I am looking for is more of a louvured style than aan open flat face with decorative look.

Wow are some of those ones expensive as well.

(broken link removed to http://www.kozyheat.com/234_image.htm)

If this shows up it is kind of what I would like on the bottom for a cover.
 
I would say to try calling some of your local HVAC folks, especially the ones that do lots of sheet metal work - I would suspect they could get grills like that made in any size you wanted. If you wanted something heavier, I'd bet your local welding shop might be able to help as well - I'd be tempted to make a frame of angle iron (1/8") w/ slats of say 1/8" thick by 1" or 2" wide flat steel, weld it all together, and then sand blast and powder coat it. You'd have a really rugged cover that I think would look sharp as well.

Gooserider
 
If you want a simple return air grille, there are lots of them. Much less expensive that the decorative grilles.

(broken link removed to http://www.registers-direct.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=rd1&Category_Code=BRAG)
 
Bump for update in original post :-)
 
Most of the Quadrafire gaskets are held in by red HT silicone.
 
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