Last OAK question...I promise!

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

bostonfan49

Minister of Fire
Nov 10, 2011
531
Essex Jct. Vermont
So I got everything I need for my OAK (M55 Insert) through back of my chimney.....except I goofed! Got 4" metal flex and dryer vent with grid, instead of the required 3" ID....I don't know what I was thinking. I suppose I could match up a reducer at the intake part of the stove. OR....I could just take everthing back to HD sincw I still have the receipt. Is there any reason I can't/shouldn't use the 4"? Thanks, Bill
 
I did the same thing at lowes (they didn't have 3") but they did have a connector piece to go from a 4"to a3". For the outside rodent guard, I used a dryer duct, but had to remove the door as the air would be entering not exiting. Good luck
 
,,,huh! Wha...no lo comprenday!
 
Have any 3" stainless flex from your install left over?

My installer used that for my OAK through the back wall of the fireplace, said it would hold up better than the aluminum flex dryer vent.
 
You really should use 3' of OAK coming from the stove. After that the 4" heavy duty flex should be fine.
Mine has been running fine for 4 years. I used a vented drain cap for a mouse gaurd on the outside of the house. My run is about 12' so I insulated the pipe after the first 3'.
 
The 4 inch will be fine, Just reduce it down to the 3 inch at the stove. You should be able to find a 3 to 4 inch reducer in the metal duct section/dept.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.