Log Lifter

[MasterMech]

That lift could be smoothed out by a simple orifice added to the circuit. Similar to a dime with a small hole drilled in the center, works wonders to slow down a circuit that is too fast and runs intermittently.

 

[infinitymike]

I deal with the big splits not falling on my toes



You can see the factory log lifter on the left.
Since this picture I have modified the table by putting an angled wall on the right side to keep the occasionally rogue split that wants to falls off the table.
I stand on the log lifter side and balance the round while lifting and then push it on the beam and lower the lifter.
I split from the lifter side also.
The whole operation is quite comfortable.

 

[Machria]

I'm glad you found that video, it's exactly the idea we were looking for. I was actually online earlier tonight looking at 2 port hydraulic valves. The cost could be a factor, I might have to collect the parts over time and put it together maybe next spring. The other thing was making the basket detachable for transport, making the lift come off with pins and maybe hydraulic couplings. Something along those lines.

Thanks for posting

Cylinder:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200442448_200442448

Control valve:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200419671_200419671

Removable Mounting point:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_614808_614808

 

[Machria]

Just a couple of comments on that last video:

The hydraulic lift seems too jerky to me - too fast - causes the entire splitter to wiggle/jump. If you had a large round on that lift I could imagine the round coming at the operator too fast and possibly rolling off the beam/possibly causing injury to the operator. I like my winch operated lift as I can control the lift very well.

It jerks because he has the wrong size control valve for the size cylinder. Get the right match and it will be much more controllable and be as smooth as can be. Does your splitter ram jerk? No, because they are properly matched.

Two way splitter? Sure, it would save time but then again in the case of the above video the operator is tossing splits from his right over to his left to the pile. After awhile I would think your arm would get tired from all that airborne wood tossing. Again, I like my receiver table - split, slide and stack in the yard trailer - all in one direction - nice system for me. YMMV (your mileage may vary)

We are not advocating doing this on the two way splitter. We want to do it on a Regular Horizontal splitter.

 

[MNtrees]

Shari, Can u supply me the info abt ur lift. I am interesting put one on my NT 30 ton splitter. Thanks!

 

[triptester]

Here are some pics of Shari's Didier splitter makeover. All the metal was recycled scrap. New material coupler, pulley, and a can of spray paint. Shari already had the winch and battery. In the last pic two U shaped brackets can be seen that help position the lifter but allow it to move up and down freely.

 

[MNtrees]

Triptester, Many thanks for the pictures! it really big help. Wonder if u have picture(s) for other side of the lift? Can u supply me the measurement so I can show my friend who is welder and make one for my NT splitter? Thanks again!

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

Yes, thanks for the photos! I'm going back to the drawing board and get some ideas that will work best for my particular unit.

 

[triptester]

Triptester, Many thanks for the pictures! it really big help. Wonder if u have picture(s) for other side of the lift? Can u supply me the measurement so I can show my friend who is welder and make one for my NT splitter? Thanks again!

The height is 1" above the top of your beam. Other than that I don't have any dimensions. Shari has the lift.

 

[MNtrees]

The height is 1" above the top of your beam. Other than that I don't have any dimensions. Shari has the lift.

Hope Shari will read this and supply the dimensions. Look like the pulley come from garage door?

 

[Jags]

Hope Shari will read this and supply the dimensions. Look like the pulley come from garage door?

Drop the splitter off to your welder guy. TT/Shari's design or the style that I built is pretty easy to just piece together. With a little imagination an engineering degree is not needed.

 

[MNtrees]

Drop the splitter off to your welder guy. TT/Shari's design or the style that I built is pretty easy to just piece together. With a little imagination an engineering degree is not needed.

View attachment 110938

How u attach the lifter to the beam? Look like steel pipe attached to beam? Do u have better picture of it?

 

[Jags]

Click on the pic to get full size. Simply two 1" pillow block bearings bolted to the web of the I-beam.

1" rod running through the bearings on each side for the pivot point.

 

[MNtrees]

Thanks! the pictures really big help!

 

[Shari]

First comment: Triptester is SO talented in his fabrication. I am very well pleased with both his design and assembly of this mod for my Didier.

Second comment: The only thing that might not be obviously noted is what I call the "anti-roll bar" which is mounted on the operator side of the frame Triptester built. You can see it in photos he posted and you can see why that bar works so well in the first video I posted. That bar keeps the big rounds from rolling off the beam - it saves your toes at lot of pain.

 

[mikefrommaine]

I have the northern tool splitter. And have thought about adding a lift. But I don't think it would work too well for it or most other horizontal/vertical splitters.

First the pivot point for the beam seems a little weak, I'm not sure it could handle the side loading of log lift.

Most horizontal only splitters have the wedge on the end of the beam and a push plate on the cylinder, opposite of the h/v splitters. Allowing the split wood to be pushed off the end of the beam. With a log lift added to the NT splitter on the engine side the only place for split wood to fall would be where you stand. If you added it to the operator side there wouldn't be much room to stand as the lift or tire would be in your way. You'd also have a hard time keeping the bigger pieces that need to be resplit from falling off the beam -- you'd have to lean out and over the beam -- your body mechanics would be all wrong.

I like my splitter but some day I think I will sell it and build my own timberwolf clone with a 30" cylinder and auto cycle valve. W8x40 beam, 28gpm, 16hp etc.

 

[Jags]

I am liable to start a mini war with this next statement.

Most box store horz/vert machines are poorly designed for ergonomics UNLESS you are in the vert position. The horz position usually has wheels, motor, something...getting in the way.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

I am liable to start a mini war with this next statement.

Most box store horz/vert machines are poorly designed for ergonomics UNLESS you are in the vert position. The horz position usually has wheels, motor, something...getting in the way.

go on Jags, let er rip

 

[Jags]

go on Jags, let er rip

The basic design of a horz/vert machine dictates where the pivot point must be located in relationship to the ground level equal to where the wheels are. This typically means the pivot is somewhere near the center of the beam. This also means that the axle is somewhere close to center of the beam = tight work space.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

The basic design of a horz/vert machine dictates where the pivot point must be located in relationship to the ground level equal to where the wheels are. This typically means the pivot is somewhere near the center of the beam. This also means that the axle is somewhere close to center of the beam = tight work space.

I agree with that and on some of the newer models such as Ariens, the balance of weight is partially the piston being included. The beam is short and there is even less room for a workspace.

 

[Machria]

I am liable to start a mini war with this next statement.

Most box store horz/vert machines are poorly designed for ergonomics UNLESS you are in the vert position. The horz position usually has wheels, motor, something...getting in the way.

The basic design of a horz/vert machine dictates where the pivot point must be located in relationship to the ground level equal to where the wheels are. This typically means the pivot is somewhere near the center of the beam. This also means that the axle is somewhere close to center of the beam = tight work space.

I agree with that and on some of the newer models such as Ariens, the balance of weight is partially the piston being included. The beam is short and there is even less room for a workspace.

I agree! EXCEPT, with one BIG exception!

Have a look at the pictures and read post #12 in this thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ariens-22-ton-splitter.112892/

The Ariens 22 ton unit is the exact opposite of this. It gives you the most work space available of ANY splitter I have seen to date. Although I'm a new splitter user (only had a 5 ton electric previously), I searched the hell out of this to choose one. And this is one of the things that bugged the crap out of me, the wheels and axels and sometiems even the motor seemed to be in the way on all the 22 and 27 ton splitters. I even started a thread asking "if the wheels get your way", ( https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...ht-or-left-side-controls.112270/#post-1497135 ), everyone said "No, not at all". But everytime I stepped in front of a splitter on display, they were dead smack in the middle.

UNTIL I found the 22 ton Ariens. Now it's not the best built splitter, does not have a full beam and is small and lightweight which many of you probably won't like. But those are the exact reasons I bought it. It's light and easy to move around, and takes up very little space. And the kicker is, it has the most work space of all of them. I've now split 3 cords so far ith it,. and the last 2 cords was all 35" to 40" very green RED Oak. It handled it no problem. The big crotches with large knotts would slow it down to the 2nd stage, but it busted it up without issue. The unit is very balanced, I can pick it up with one hand without any straing, and roll it around. I tried that with many others in the stores, and some of them I could not budge.

Here's the work area of the Ariens 22 from above:


35" oak qtr'd:

 

[Shari]

But, but.......the conversation is limiting itself to the discussion of horizontal versus vertical beam splitters. There are other designs.

Triptester, could you jump in and post a photo of the splitter you built for yourself? If I could think of the name of the machine it was derived from I would but I'm having a senior moment here.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

But, but.......the conversation is limiting itself to the discussion of horizontal versus vertical beam splitters. There are other designs.

Triptester, could you jump in and post a photo of the splitter you built for yourself? If I could think of the name of the machine it was derived from I would but I'm having a senior moment here.

Sr moment...

 

[Shari]

Partial 'senior moment' recovery going on here.

Take a look at this design: (broken link removed to http://www.icsman.co.nz/products/log-splitters/trailed-log-splitters.aspx)

http://www.trademe.co.nz/services/other-services/farming-agriculture/auction-619643570.htm

 

[triptester]

I based my splitter build on the Powersplit/ TimberDevil design. I modified it slightly with a retractable cylinder , a mechanical log lift , a receiver hitch ,and hyway towable
http://powersplit.com/video-gallery
(broken link removed to http://www.timberdevil.com/products.html)