Looking for a new saw

[claydogg84]

I'm going to look at the saw and if it starts up with no problem, doesn't smoke or leak, and does t make any weird noises, it should be ok I would think. I doubt I'm going to be able to take anything apart

Ask him to take the muffler off before you go. You want to definitely take a look in there before you buy it. It's 2 bolts and takes only a few minutes. On a side note, I didn't realize how close you live to me, we're practically neighbors.

 

[Tedbo68]

Ask him to take the muffler off before you go. You want to definitely take a look in there before you buy it. It's 2 bolts and takes only a few minutes. On a side note, I didn't realize how close you live to me, we're practically neighbors.

This may sound dumb, but what am I looking for exactly? Yeah I see that. It's nice having local people on a forum like this

 

[claydogg84]

This may sound dumb, but what am I looking for exactly?

You're looking at the piston and the head. You want to make sure there is no vertical scoring in either. Let me try to dig up some pictures.

 

[claydogg84]

These are bad. Light vertical lines are a pretty good indication that it is in need of some freshening up, and I'd suggest you pass on a saw like that. There should be NO vertical lines when you inspect it.

 

[Tedbo68]

S

These are bad. Light vertical lines are a pretty good indication that it is in need of some freshening up, and I'd suggest you pass on a saw like that. There should be NO vertical lines when you inspect it. View attachment 168635View attachment 168636

So you can see the piston like that right underneath the muffler? I'll ask him to do that. If he says no I'll pass on the saw. Thanks for your help!!

On a side note, are you from the area? We're the same age, I went to Ketcham

 

[claydogg84]

S


So you can see the piston like that right underneath the muffler? I'll ask him to do that. If he says no I'll pass on the saw. Thanks for your help!!

On a side note, are you from the area? We're the same age, I went to Ketcham

Yes you can see the piston through the muffler hole. You'll have to use the pull cord to cycle the piston up and down. I agree it's a very good idea to not purchase this saw if he's not willing to remove the muffler. OEM piston and head are quite expensive. I went to FDR in Hyde Park. I live in Salt Point which is just outside of Pleasant Valley.

 

[Tedbo68]

So I decided not to go for the used saw. I got a good deal on a new 562xp. Picking it up this week. Can't wait. Thanks for the advice though, you learn something new every day.

 

[Starstuff]

No offense to all the knowledgeable guys here talking about big saws, but it doesn't sound like you need one if you're not felling (big) trees and only cutting up about 3 cords a year (which you said was probably more than you needed). A 50-55cc with a 20" bar with a good sharp chain is still going to get quickly through most of the wood you're likely to come across AND can drop some pretty good size trees as well if you need it to. A 20" bar can cut through some pretty big trunks. I Have a Stihl 271 (50cc) with 20" bar and it's been plenty of saw for me, and I've been averaging about 5 cords per year c/s/s so far.

 

[drz1050]

Another way to check a used saw: hang it from the pull cord. It should hold its weight, maybe slowly drop... but not drop all at once. Kinda a ghetto way to check compression.

FWIW, I'm pretty happy with my Echo CS-590. I think it falls between the 455 Rancher and 555 in Husky's lineup.

 

[claydogg84]

No offense to all the knowledgeable guys here talking about big saws, but it doesn't sound like you need one if you're not felling (big) trees and only cutting up about 3 cords a year (which you said was probably more than you needed). A 50-55cc with a 20" bar with a good sharp chain is still going to get quickly through most of the wood you're likely to come across AND can drop some pretty good size trees as well if you need it to. A 20" bar can cut through some pretty big trunks. I Have a Stihl 271 (50cc) with 20" bar and it's been plenty of saw for me, and I've been averaging about 5 cords per year c/s/s so far.

A 60cc isn't considered a "big" saw, at least not by me. What he got was a quality professional saw that he can rebuild in the future if needed.

 

[BenTN]

you will be very happy with that saw. as an obvious recommendation of ppe which you probably already have i will suggest purchasing some pain killers and flowers. you will need the pain killers for the cramps in the face muscles due to the perma-grin you will have while running the saw. the flowers for the Mrs. as you be spending more time in the wood running that saw.

a serious note: read the manual carefully on starting procedures for these autotune saws. they will flood easily if you try to start them like other saws.

 

[Tedbo68]

No offense to all the knowledgeable guys here talking about big saws, but it doesn't sound like you need one if you're not felling (big) trees and only cutting up about 3 cords a year (which you said was probably more than you needed). A 50-55cc with a 20" bar with a good sharp chain is still going to get quickly through most of the wood you're likely to come across AND can drop some pretty good size trees as well if you need it to. A 20" bar can cut through some pretty big trunks. I Have a Stihl 271 (50cc) with 20" bar and it's been plenty of saw for me, and I've been averaging about 5 cords per year c/s/s so far.

I appreciate the advice. I thought about a 50cc. The reason I ultimately went with something a little bigger is I have a 440 which is a good little saw, but wanted to make a bigger jump in size since I'll have the 2. I'll have this saw for a long long time so I wanted to go something I would second guess buying or figure I'd need something else down the road. I'm not sure if I would notice the difference between 3/8 and .325 chain but it sounds like the 3/8 is much faster, and that's what you can use with the 60cc saws. Again, I'm not a pro, just looking for something that will last a long, long time.

 

[Starstuff]

I appreciate the advice. I thought about a 50cc. The reason I ultimately went with something a little bigger is I have a 440 which is a good little saw, but wanted to make a bigger jump in size since I'll have the 2. I'll have this saw for a long long time so I wanted to go something I would second guess buying or figure I'd need something else down the road. I'm not sure if I would notice the difference between 3/8 and .325 chain but it sounds like the 3/8 is much faster, and that's what you can use with the 60cc saws. Again, I'm not a pro, just looking for something that will last a long, long time.

I started typing up my post before you made your announcement. Sorry about that. If cost wasn't a big factor in your decision, then I think you went with a great choice. I doubt you'll ever need more than a 20" bar, but if it becomes necessary, no problem, and that's great. I learned a lot by reading this thread (I was totally unaware about the power/speed differences associated with .325 and 3/8 pitch). I hope you're able to see and appreciate the difference with the 3/8 (I bet you will).

And, though I'm sure you've already considered it, that saw is going to be a lot more aggressive than what you're used to, so please make sure you've got the appropriate safety gear (chaps, helmet+face shield, etc.).

Happy cutting!

 

[2broke2ride]

A 60cc isn't considered a "big" saw, at least not by me. What he got was a quality professional saw that he can rebuild in the future if needed.

My thoughts exactly

 

[Starstuff]

A 60cc isn't considered a "big" saw, at least not by me. What he got was a quality professional saw that he can rebuild in the future if needed.

We can debate what exactly a "big saw" is (I would still say 60cc is a lot for someone only doing 3 cords per year), but my comment was in response to some of the posts suggesting upwards of 70ccs and 26"+ bars--not what he actually bought. If that's still not "big" for you, well, I guess we just have a difference of perspective...

 

[2broke2ride]

We can debate what exactly a "big saw" is (I would still say 60cc is a lot for someone only doing 3 cords per year), but my comment was in response to some of the posts suggesting upwards of 70ccs and 26"+ bars--not what he actually bought. If that's still not "big" for you, well, I guess we just have a difference of perspective...

60cc is a medium saw to me and a good fit for an 18" bar.[emoji106]

 

[Oldman47]

A 60cc is my main saw as a rank amateur firewood cutter. My Husky 555 gets the job done with ease and has a bit of reserve if I decide to go longer than my 20 inch bar. I could easily go to a 24 inch bar and just turn up the chain oiler. My 50cc Stihl 026 is wimpy by comparison.

 

[CrufflerJJ]

So I decided not to go for the used saw. I got a good deal on a new 562xp. Picking it up this week. Can't wait. Thanks for the advice though, you learn something new every day.

I think you'll love your new 562XP. I got mine earlier this year to add to my MS250, and thoroughly enjoy it.

PLEASE read the manual regarding the warm start procedure. One thing, though, DO NOT push in the decompression valve when you're trying to start it warm or hot. They're a bear to restart if you do that. With the decompression valve left in the "out" position, though, mine usually starts back up in 1 pull when I'm starting it warm or hot. The manual is not clear on this, leading to frustration.

If you ever run a 24" bar, turn the oiler all the way up (it's a 3 position screw - light/normal/heavy oil output). Even with my 20" bar, oil output is marginal. My 395XP pumps out the oil much better than the 562XP.