Lopi Liberty - Blower question/issue

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

shojeel

New Member
Nov 1, 2016
13
New Hampshire
Hi all,

Brand new to the forum but have been cruising the threads for a week or so trying to get a grasp on what is happening with my stove. I purchased a new house in NH and the temps have started to drop outside. In order to prep for the winter I have started to get familiar with my stoves, a Lopi Liberty and a much older Jotul (not sure of the model yet). I replaced the firebricks in the Lopi, and still need to do the door gasket, and most likely the baffle brackets (but should last until next year). When speaking with my local stove shop, and discussing the condition of the stove, I was told that a blower would make parts like the baffle brackets and tubes last longer as well as increase the spread of the heat generated by the stove. All of this made sense to me so I sprung for all of the parts I needed and bought the blower.

I successfully replaced the bricks and decided to tackle the blower next. I followed the directions exactly and fired up the stove. SUCCESS!!!.......at least for the first fire. :( Now I can't get the blower to kick on again. I checked the wires, checked the breaker, checked that the blower was getting power to different spots (ie. the blower, the rheostat) and still nothing. I tried getting a very hot fire going....still nothing. So I do what most other people do at this point and turn to the glory that is the world wide web, which eventually leads me here.

I have read the threads others posted on blower issues; some being snap-disc, some being bearing or blower age/cleanliness, and others being about temp. I can obviously rule out the age/cleanliness and temp since it has now been a weeks worth of varying fire sizes trying to get this blower to turn on. I am not sure about what the exact temp is on the stove (I just ordered a stove top thermometer) but I know that it gets HOT. At this point I can only surmise that it must be the snap disc or that I somehow shorted out the blower?

I have yet to try to jump the wires on the snap disc because I would like to get any opinions and advice from this forum and the stove shop before doing any modifications...especially if the blower is under warranty. One final detail is that after the blower worked on the first day I did notice that the GFI circuit broke on the line that the blower is plugged into. I reset the circuit, moved any other loads that were on it to another circuit, and it has not tripped since - most likely because the blower has not turned on.

Is it possible that I shorted out the blower somehow? As mentioned, followed the installation directions exactly, and have read them several times after the fact to make sure that I didn't miss anything. One noe that I keep reading over and over again is in regards to the snap disc and the wire clip. It says something like "ensure that the wires from the snap disc do not contact the firebox or else it could short out the blower". As far as I can tell the wires were never in contact with the firebox after I completed the installation but that comment does make me curious. Could I have shorted out the blower through the snap disc wires if the fire got too hot? Would that permanently damage the blower and cause it to longer function? Not that I think I did but I am curious.

In any case, all help is appreciated as I fumble through my first woodstove. Thanks in advance.
 
No, if you had a short the circuit breaker or fuse for that outlet would have tripped. Definitely check the outlet with a lamp or tester to make sure it is still live. If it is, then jumping the snap switch would be a logical next step to try. Be sure to unplug first.
 
No, if you had a short the circuit breaker or fuse for that outlet would have tripped. Definitely check the outlet with a lamp or tester to make sure it is still live. If it is, then jumping the snap switch would be a logical next step to try. Be sure to unplug first.

begreen,

Somehow I knew you would be the first person to respond :)

I have read through all of your responses on the other threads from 2011 and beyond and appreciate all of the time you have spent answering peoples questions on here.

The outlet is definitely getting power after I reset the circuit. Should I wait to jump the snap switch just in case the shop I bought it from will try and fix it. The thing is brand new after all....
 
Running the night shift here.
 
  • Like
Reactions: firefighterjake
If that's the issue I'd replace it with one of the correct value that matches factory spec. But while you are in there make sure that the snap switch is firmly pressed against the stove body and making good contact.
 
If that's the issue I'd replace it with one of the correct value that matches factory spec. But while you are in there make sure that the snap switch is firmly pressed against the stove body and making good contact.

It is definitely making good contact. I bent the metal bracket so that the dime sized blackish button is up against the back of the fire box. I'll talk to the shop tomorrow to see if they can do anything for me and then if not I will do the jump and go from there. Thanks again and I am sure I will be posting after tomorrow.
 
So, after speaking with the service department at the stove shop I was informed that there is a 90 day warranty on parts. I decided to take the leap and jump the snap switch. That did not work. So I tried cutting the fan speed control wires and wire nutting them back together, think that it was a bad quick connect connection, and that didn't work.

I am not quite sure what else to do at this point....

Any suggestions, begreen?
 
The motor controller/power switch could be bad, a wire or crimp connection could be bad or is there a possibility it is wired incorrectly?
 
The motor controller/power switch could be bad, a wire or crimp connection could be bad or is there a possibility it is wired incorrectly?

I am thinking that it is a bad part. Not sure which part though.

Can I jump the controller the same way I jumped the snap switch?

If it were wired incorrectly it wouldn't have turned on in the first place, right? Should I try and switch the control wires to see if that is the issue?
 
I don't have a schematic for this stove blower controller so I am reluctant to advise jumping the controller without knowing more. If it worked before it sounds like an open circuit. The snap switch, wire connectors, and controller are the obvious suspects.

Is there a separate power switch? Is the controller in series with the switch or is it an all in one switch and rheostat?
 
I don't have a schematic for this stove blower controller so I am reluctant to advise jumping the controller without knowing more. If it worked before it sounds like an open circuit. The snap switch, wire connectors, and controller are the obvious suspects.

Well, I just tried to jump the controller and it worked. I turned it on very briefly. What would have caused the controller to go bad so quickly? Heat?
 
It happens. Cheap mass construction.
 
I blew out my controller by not unplugging it one time and grounded out the wires of the snap disc, just what the instructions warn you about. What the instructions said would happen is true.....been there done that!!!

Glad you found the problem. Just remember, you can buy your parts off amazon for that whole blower assembly, including the blower, for less than 1/2 what Travis Industries wants....

Craig
 
Status
Not open for further replies.