Lopi Liberty question

[Dan105]

I just finished refurbishing a 1999 Lopi Liberty woodstove. I had to replace the damper extention and the finger yoke that actuate the bypass damper. I replaced this because it was warped/bent down. (Probably from someone running the stove too hot for too long). Anyways.... I just now finished installing the bypass damper and top bricks. First off,, what a cluster Fk putting all that up there. But the point of this post is that the bypass slider and box appear to be in good working order and not warped but yet the bypass damper is a rough operation. What's the deal??? I believe I have it all installed correctly with the T baffle, front Y baffle, bricks, and air chambers and I think it is all aligned as it should be, but yet it seems rough.
It closes all the way but only opens about half way, actually not even half way. Is this normal?? I am afriad to do my first burn. I do not want to fill the house up with smoke. Shouldn't that bypass damper be smooth and open all the way (meaning the flu would be totally unrestricted as in a complete open circle.

 

[Dan105]

I think I found the problem. I think the bypass slider plate is warped. I also spoke to a Lopi dealer that had a new unit on the floor. They stated the bypass slider on their unit opened almost completely. Said only about an inch of the slider plate was visable when the bypass was opened all the way. I'm gonna get a new slider and see if that does it. If not, I am hoping the baffle box isnt warped or I may have to get my welding buddy to make a new baffle because I dont know if they sell new ones.

 

[webby3650]

All the parts are readily available for almost any epa Lopi, and aren’t priced too badly compared to other stoves.

If that box isn’t installed absolutely perfectly flat, then the bypass plate ramps up on it when operated. Do some adjusting on the bricks, make sure they are pushed all the way back so the box sits down all the way. I’ve had lots of them apart, I’ve never seen a warped one, but I have struggled to get them back in and seated properly.

 

[Dan105]

Ok thank you, i gonna play around with it 2mrw.

 

[Dan105]

Fixed!! Webby, thanks for making me look things over closer. I looked through an air vent on the front of the stove and I could see the damper extension rod. I could see where it entered the firebox area and I noticed there was a gap under the rod, kinda like the rod was being pushed upwards.
Well what i found was that the small cylinders that are welded onto the slider plate were half full of ash and crud. These holes are what you damper yoke fangs fit into. I cleaned one out and measured it, then i measured the other one that I had not cleaned yet and there was a 1/4 inch difference!! I scraped them out anf put everythimg back in the stove anf it all works nice and smooth now! It opens and closes nice. And it now opens as far as the dealer said it should. Dealer said "looking down from above the stove only and inch protrudes into the exaust area, and that is how mine is now. So happy this thing is all set now. Just have to figure out how to cut some new firebricks for the floor and I will be good to go.

 

[webby3650]

Bricks are easily cut with a diamond wheel on a grinder.
I don’t remember floor bricks needing cut, I haven’t worked on floor bricks in a liberty for a while though.

 

[Dan105]

Ok cool. Yeah there are 2 in the middle that need to be 6 3/8 and the rest have to be 8 1/4. Shouldnt be too bad.

 

[lopiliberty]

That back air tub needs to be turned so the holes are straight forward. Pointing down like that was probably the cause of the bypass warping

 

[webby3650]

That back air tub needs to be turned so the holes are straight forward. Pointing down like that was probably the cause of the bypass warping

Good catch. I don’t think the bypass was warped though.
A stove this age would have push pins that prevent the tube from rolling around.
They upgraded this system several years ago to roll pins that are driven in. Make sure they are all in place.

 

[Eater309]

Fixed!! Webby, thanks for making me look things over closer. I looked through an air vent on the front of the stove and I could see the damper extension rod. I could see where it entered the firebox area and I noticed there was a gap under the rod, kinda like the rod was being pushed upwards.
Well what i found was that the small cylinders that are welded onto the slider plate were half full of ash and crud. These holes are what you damper yoke fangs fit into. I cleaned one out and measured it, then i measured the other one that I had not cleaned yet and there was a 1/4 inch difference!! I scraped them out anf put everythimg back in the stove anf it all works nice and smooth now! It opens and closes nice. And it now opens as far as the dealer said it should. Dealer said "looking down from above the stove only and inch protrudes into the exaust area, and that is how mine is now. So happy this thing is all set now. Just have to figure out how to cut some new firebricks for the floor and I will be good to go.

I've used a tile cutter to cut firebricks.

 

[TradEddie]

Fixed!! Webby, thanks for making me look things over closer. I looked through an air vent on the front of the stove and I could see the damper extension rod. I could see where it entered the firebox area and I noticed there was a gap under the rod, kinda like the rod was being pushed upwards.
Well what i found was that the small cylinders that are welded onto the slider plate were half full of ash and crud. These holes are what you damper yoke fangs fit into. I cleaned one out and measured it, then i measured the other one that I had not cleaned yet and there was a 1/4 inch difference!! I scraped them out anf put everythimg back in the stove anf it all works nice and smooth now! It opens and closes nice. And it now opens as far as the dealer said it should. Dealer said "looking down from above the stove only and inch protrudes into the exaust area, and that is how mine is now. So happy this thing is all set now. Just have to figure out how to cut some new firebricks for the floor and I will be good to go.

Thank you!!

I've been having the same problem with my Lopi Freedom, I recently disassembled and scrubbed everything spotlessly clean, yet after reassembly it was no better. I took it apart today after reading your post to find those cylinders clogged with ash just as you described, and after cleaning them out it's so smooth, I have to check to see if I'm actually moving the bypass plate!

TE

 

[Shmudda]

Dan,

I have one from 1997 that I bought new. Interesting to hear the same problems I have experienced! I posted this drawing up before for the steel part details in the roof, so here they are again for you. Watch the door seal, as they are somewhat fragile you must be careful loading longer pieces. Also, keep in mind as the door seal flattens out from use there are washers behind the locking dog that are to be removed so the door closes tighter. Keep the washers as you will need them to go back in when you do replace the door seal. If you don't have a good door and window seal the thing will just blow thru the wood.....good luck with her, they are built like a tank!

It's a good stove, and I would buy it again!

Craig