Alright here it is. I'm new to the site but been poking around for a while. Pee on the oil companys to begin with. I currently reside in a mobile home. I want to add on a small room 4x8 approx on my deck pull my sliding glass doors out and put a wood stove in it. Here is the deal. Ive been in a burning house and dont want to be there again (dads house not mine). I dont want to build a block or brick flue. I curently heat my 24x28 garage with a sierra log hog smoke dragon so im no stranger to burning wood. I use insulated pipe through the wall 40 inches of it and single wall 24 gauge every where else. every thing is at least 18 inches of the wall in and out. What is the deal with mobile home approed stoves? what makes them different? What are some steps to prevent getting the wall to hot where the flue goes through and anything else to prevent fires besides common sense. All i can think of right now may add some more later got to go stoke ol smoky.
mobil home heating room
- Thread starter oilstinks
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
Those stoves have been tested for clearances and other specifications relative to a mobile home installation.
(broken link removed)
(broken link removed)
It seems a lot of the stoves need to be fastened to the floor, probably due to the house not being fastened to a foundation
oilstinks said:
forgive me for not giving chapter and verse as im tired and dont feel like pulling the link to the reg , but if i remember correctly a stove not specificcaly designed to operate within an "alcove" of samller sixe cannot be installed in a room such as you describe unless the alcove has at least 512 square ft of floor space. i would suggest before committing to this you google "nfpa 211" and selecting the free code link and read up on 211 to ensure that what you intend to do is going to be code compliant.
Oilstinks, is there room in your living room for a small stove?
The Drolet Adirondack and Pacific Energy Vista are small stoves with VERY close clearances to combustibles, and are approved for mobile homes.
(broken link removed to http://www.drolet.ca/product.aspx?CategoId=1&Id=168&Page=spec)
(broken link removed to http://www.pacificenergy.net/product_vista_classic.php)
Any wood stove you install in a mobile home has to be connected to the chimney with double wall stove pipe.
The Drolet Adirondack and Pacific Energy Vista are small stoves with VERY close clearances to combustibles, and are approved for mobile homes.
(broken link removed to http://www.drolet.ca/product.aspx?CategoId=1&Id=168&Page=spec)
(broken link removed to http://www.pacificenergy.net/product_vista_classic.php)
Any wood stove you install in a mobile home has to be connected to the chimney with double wall stove pipe.
thats the problem i have no room. There will be a six foot opening to the heat room. I want a very small fire box. No mor than a 16 to 18 if that with a blower and psooibly a heat reclaimer on the flue. Probaply ave a rock floor as of right now. The plan is to place the stove almost at the 6 ft opening hence the very small room. So let me get this straight, a mobile home aproved stove pulls the air for combustion from the out side much like a furnace or monitor heater which seals them of from the inside once the door is shut. Good lord willing ill have my land paid off in 3 or 4 years and i can get to work on a house. The outdoor wood hot water furnaces have took off like wild fire around here(western NC). Probably cant drive a mile without seeing one. Just some info.
oilstinks said:
I like the idea of a small Pacific Energy Vista stove or the small Quadrafire stove (2100). If budget is tight, perhaps an Englander 13NC? I wouldn't put a heat reclaimer on the stove. Not a good idea on a modern EPA stove. It will already be reclaiming heat internally with secondary combustion. And if the wood is not first rate, reclaimers can be creosote collectors. If you put in a stone floor, be sure it is insulated around the perimeter and underneath the slab. Otherwise it will wick out warmth and defeat the purpose of the room.
What part of NC, are you near Boone? That's my favorite area of the western hills.
Lets answer a few questions first. My garage is about 70 feet from me. I live close to boone. In burnsville acctually just west of spruce pine and north of asheville. Yes i would isulate and the room would be on a 12x 32 deck made of 2x8 2x10 and supported by 10 4x6. It is a pretty sturdy platform. Will i still need to secure the stove to the floor. Where the pipe goes through the wall and insulating the wall behind the stove is my main concern again than for all the info and links you guys have posted.
Moble home stoves
must use double wall stainless steel pipe.
must have outside cold combustion chamber air intake hose kit.
must be bolted to the floor,in case you move the home.
must be rated for close clearances to combustables
you can probably use heat shields to reduce clearances ,if necessary, but please check the code, as i am not certain.
If I understand you correctly, you are not placing the stove in a moble home at all, BUT RATHER ON A NON MOVABLE PLATFORM THAT SUPPORTS AN EXTERNAL ROOM THAT WILL OPEN INTO A STATIONARY MOBILE HOME BUT NEVER BE INSIDE THE MOBILE HOME OR A PART OF THE MOBLE HOME AT ALL.
No need to bolt stove to floor if stove is installed in a room on stilts that is next to & opens into the motor home.
If I have that part right, then the only rules that would apply would be the clearance to combustables, the outside combustion air kit, & just use 1 section of double wall stainless for where you go thru the wall or roof thimble.
An outside cold combustion air kit does 2 things: It prevents the stove from using the air that you breath to burn its fuel with & it stops cold air from being sucked in to the house to be burned in the stove . Being draft free in the house because of a outside air kit is a huge heat savings & stops that cold feet,hot head feeling associated with wood burning & allows you to burn your stove less or at a lower rate or put in only a 1/2 load of wood instead of a full load.
Most modern epa secondary burn stoves use 6 in top collar for flue pipe, so you would want to go up thru the room with the smoke pipe.
The heat reclaimer is always a bad idea because they constantly block with soot & creasote
& most people don't want to take their stove pipe apart once a month or once every two months to clean the thing out.
Buying a secondary burn stove ,like the englander 13 nc or 50-30ncl, will give you the same heat as an old time 1970 stove while burning 1/3 of the wood that the old time stove requires to give that heat. The savings in wood is huge. I know because I scraped my old time stove while it was still running good & replaced it with a secondary burn,just to save on the wood I was burning.
Secondary burn stove will pay for itself in wood fuel savings in 2 to 3 years.
www.englanderstoves.com Almost any other brand costs more. stove made in monroe,virginia. Their summersheat brand ,sold at lowes, is the same as the englander but priced 200 to 300 less for same stove, except it has pewter trim instead of immitation gold trim.
I know these secondary burn stoves have the cold air intake set up to accept the
hose from outside & come with a rear heat shield already installed on the stove to which an optional variable speed electric room air blower will mount & it blows the air over the top of the stove towards the stoves front door . You have to check the website to see if its mobile home rated & about clearances. the 50-30ncl is rated 2000 sq ft & the 13nc model for 1000 sq ft.
They probably have other models as well, on the web site as i'm not fimiliar with their entire
product line. They have pellet stoves too , if you don't mind 5.00 a bag for pellets per day
to heat as pellets are a lot less work than a wood stove but cost more for fuel than free wood to opperate them.
hope this helps.
P.S. Change your handle to "oil prices stink" sounds way cooler to me.
must use double wall stainless steel pipe.
must have outside cold combustion chamber air intake hose kit.
must be bolted to the floor,in case you move the home.
must be rated for close clearances to combustables
you can probably use heat shields to reduce clearances ,if necessary, but please check the code, as i am not certain.
If I understand you correctly, you are not placing the stove in a moble home at all, BUT RATHER ON A NON MOVABLE PLATFORM THAT SUPPORTS AN EXTERNAL ROOM THAT WILL OPEN INTO A STATIONARY MOBILE HOME BUT NEVER BE INSIDE THE MOBILE HOME OR A PART OF THE MOBLE HOME AT ALL.
No need to bolt stove to floor if stove is installed in a room on stilts that is next to & opens into the motor home.
If I have that part right, then the only rules that would apply would be the clearance to combustables, the outside combustion air kit, & just use 1 section of double wall stainless for where you go thru the wall or roof thimble.
An outside cold combustion air kit does 2 things: It prevents the stove from using the air that you breath to burn its fuel with & it stops cold air from being sucked in to the house to be burned in the stove . Being draft free in the house because of a outside air kit is a huge heat savings & stops that cold feet,hot head feeling associated with wood burning & allows you to burn your stove less or at a lower rate or put in only a 1/2 load of wood instead of a full load.
Most modern epa secondary burn stoves use 6 in top collar for flue pipe, so you would want to go up thru the room with the smoke pipe.
The heat reclaimer is always a bad idea because they constantly block with soot & creasote
& most people don't want to take their stove pipe apart once a month or once every two months to clean the thing out.
Buying a secondary burn stove ,like the englander 13 nc or 50-30ncl, will give you the same heat as an old time 1970 stove while burning 1/3 of the wood that the old time stove requires to give that heat. The savings in wood is huge. I know because I scraped my old time stove while it was still running good & replaced it with a secondary burn,just to save on the wood I was burning.
Secondary burn stove will pay for itself in wood fuel savings in 2 to 3 years.
www.englanderstoves.com Almost any other brand costs more. stove made in monroe,virginia. Their summersheat brand ,sold at lowes, is the same as the englander but priced 200 to 300 less for same stove, except it has pewter trim instead of immitation gold trim.
I know these secondary burn stoves have the cold air intake set up to accept the
hose from outside & come with a rear heat shield already installed on the stove to which an optional variable speed electric room air blower will mount & it blows the air over the top of the stove towards the stoves front door . You have to check the website to see if its mobile home rated & about clearances. the 50-30ncl is rated 2000 sq ft & the 13nc model for 1000 sq ft.
They probably have other models as well, on the web site as i'm not fimiliar with their entire
product line. They have pellet stoves too , if you don't mind 5.00 a bag for pellets per day
to heat as pellets are a lot less work than a wood stove but cost more for fuel than free wood to opperate them.
hope this helps.
P.S. Change your handle to "oil prices stink" sounds way cooler to me.
moble homes come under Hud rules not nfpa 211 rules and check with your insurance co. they may have aditional rules of there won
yes the stove wont be in the mobile home technically. oil prices stink as well as the smell of $3.69 k-1 to run my monitor or about 10-12 cents per kw hour to run my electric furnace. Im getting stuck from both sides right now. We also have an electric company that has been known to estimate power usage. We need a power co-op . my power bill has doubled in the last 3 years even after putting in piggy tail lights in everything.
I also looked at a small stove at home depot tonight that has the rear inlet and the heat shield for a blower. It had about a 16in. box. Think it was $469 last one they had.
oilstinks said:
That is a great price for a stove that normally sells all day long for $900 to $1000 if it was an englander.
At that price, if the stove is big enough for your needs ,you better snag it quick, first thing tomorrow morning, before it disappear. They wont get another until sept & then it will cost you $938.oo So if you want to save $469.oo , on end of season clearance sale , buy it now.
Just make sure its the englander & big enough for your sq ft heating requirements & run down & at least put a deposit on it to hold it on layaway.
The only other stove they sell is a Century & while its not as good a stove, if it is a secondary burn model, it is a decent stove & the price is still good, even for a century.
Like I say,you need to run ,not walk. sleep late & you could loose 438.oo & you be kicking your own butt for not buying it on 1/2 price sale.
I didn't think that h.d. had any of those 1/2 off sale stoves left or I would have told you to go look there for one.
BeGreen said:
Be Green HD only sells englander & century stoves , so it had to be one or the other.
Awesome price for a englander & pretty good price for a century if it a secondary burn model.
From what he said , I think he was looking at an englander 13ncl.
im almost positive it was an englander and it was only about 170 or 180 odd the original price . Stove only no blower or duct work to run intake air from outside
update- Got my drywall done. My concrete board up and down on floor for tile on wall and floor and finished my flue system type ht rated last night. Ill be burning soon.
- Status
Similar threads
