Modern FP30 Install Pics & Cold Air Draft OAK Problem?

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New Member
Oct 27, 2019
Northwest US
Good things... this thing heats amazing and turned out beautiful. But... went through a whole winter last year with a bad draft at the bottom of the stove where the control arm is. Assuming it's the 4" OAK to outside that's causing it... what to do? I don't have room for a damper inside (thought about installing a 4" electric damper but cannot get it to fit now that everything is installed).

FP30 is on outside wall and OAK is directly behind it. Approx. 30' straight chimney. This seems like a major problem with these stoves... my thought are everything from taping off/blocking the OAK entirely to stuffing rockwool in the control assembly. Really hoping there's a better, solid option to prevent this horrible draft. From forum posts it sounds like I'm not alone but cannot find a "magic bullet" in the forums. Plus I wanted a chance to show off the install :)

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That's a beauty......what a wonderful view.........keep a fire going that stops the cold air, 3 loads a day is all it takes.
I use two of the business card size fridge magnets over the air adjustment control lever area when the stove is not in use. Works okay for me, also blocked off 2/3 of the oak opening with clear tape. Nice installation, enjoy the warmth! I am going on winter 5 with mine, no issues yet whatsoever just some fine tuning with the fan controls.
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Just a question...

Is an OAK necessary for installation and operation?

Just curious as I have been looking to upgrade our Winter Warm Large ZC. Have had previous woodburning stoves and did not have an OAK installed. So not sure if one is needed for operation/inspection on these or if it is choice.
It's code in many areas... also really important in super-tight houses (basically make up air for your wood stove). Wish it sealed the OAK directly into the firebox without direct infiltration to the living space.
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High tech solution... I bet those magnets would melt real fast if you every forgot to remove them! There must be a better way...
Haven't melted any yet. By the time you make the 1st air adjustment to the fire you notice them and remove them. At that time the area down by the air control is not hot. This is the best solution I have found. When it gets super cold this year I may try and plug the oak 100%. My house is not that tight after a few years, I think it would be fine running with the outside air blocked off in the dead of winter. Fall and spring the oak is probably needed.

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It's code in many areas... also really important in super-tight houses (basically make up air for your wood stove). Wish it sealed the OAK directly into the firebox without direct infiltration to the living space.

Thanks. Not sure its code where I am at. I'll have to look into it more when I upgrade. I was just curious because any ZC Fireplace I've looked at always had a disclaimer that an OAK "must be installed" with said fireplace. I was hoping not, as my house is older (not tight) and I do not believe there is one presently for the Winter Warm and that runs fine (well, as fine as one of those can run). It was also permitted, but codes can change over time, I guess.
You have a very nice install, real clean lines, a modern gem. You should have many years of fireplace fun ahead. I particularly like the ceiling details and beams, not to mention those views and that deck. Looks awesome!

Our FP 30 does not have this issue. Our previous zero clearance did. I attribute it to the install. When we added on the chase to the exterior of our home that ended up being a 27 foot tall, 4 or 5 foot wide, box of cold unconditioned air. Just like your experience, cold air drops and it would come out at the base of our previous fireplace by the damper. That was a Heat and Glo Northstar. Not the fault of the fireplace, it was very nice, it was the fault of the install and our our ignorance, at least I believe.

On our current home, we discussed in detail, with the installers, steps that could be taken to air seal the chase to prevent this with our FP30 install. It seemed to have worked and we not have this infiltration. The lower part of the chase, that houses the unit, was air sealed except for a small break around the chimney pipe, like a firestop. This occurs just above our mantel behind the wall of course. This resulted in a small space, of unconditioned air, that could enter in this manner.

This picture looks to be prior to firewood season:


Some stoves dont seal the air supply to the firebox completely, so yes it will leak terribly to the room when not in use. Rig some kind of damper on the outside hood when not using it.