I forget what kind. He told me they were the same as at Home Depot near me last winter. I don't think the type of pellets are that critical with this boiler.
I see the wire. The hose I got for the bag load does not have a wire; the vacuum hose to the boiler does.
Are you doing your install yourself?
My install only took two days and it was up and running but the legwork/homework prior to that actually took quite a bit of time. i had to have a SS liner dropped down one of the flues in my chimney. Finding the right guy to do that and have it done took a few weeks. Then I had to find a decent plumber who was going to do a quality job without screwing me on the price. I had to call at least 15 - 20 different plumber sin my area and there were quite a few jokers out there. The plumber I settled on and had do the job turned out to be a great plumber and I got the job done at a very reasonable price. Marc met the plumber during the install/commissioning and commented on how knowledgeable he was and that I had picked the right guy to do the job. My install was the first Biowin he did but I'm pretty sure he's done a few more since mine. It's too bad you don't live in NH because I'd give you his name.
Anyhow it's looking like the heating season might be wrapping up in the next 2-3 weeks (finally.) I'm at slightly under 5 tons burned in a 2400 square foot home so I'll probably end up burning about 5.5 tons give or take a few bags. I have a spreadsheet I created of my oil use for the past five years and I will probably save somewhere between 35 - 50% over oil this year, most likely somewhere in the middle of that range but I'll know for sure when I'm done heating.
I am looking for a decent plumber and do live in NH --Can you give me the name. I am having trouble getting quotes and always try to get at least 3 quotes. I am considering BioWin, Ketel etc, but it seems the installers are costly and far between for pellet boilers in the Keene area, looking at the Froling etc.
The tank temperature control uses a latching relay scheme as described by ewdudley to make more use of the buffer tank's stored heat and its stratifying potential. When the tank's bottom controller AND the top controller hit their setpoints - differentials, I'm going to say 155F, a call for heat goes out. BOTH tanks setpoints, say, 175F, have to be satisfied to stop the call for heat.
The pellet boiler will start, but the pellet circ pump won't start up until the pellet boiler reaches, say, 130F.
When the pellet boiler shuts down, the pellet boiler circ will continue to run for approximately 10 minutes to drain (I call it purge) the heat from the boiler to the buffer tank.
To test If the pellet boiler doesn't start up, like if it ran out of pellets, using a scheme suggested by Dzl_Damon, it will wait about 15 minutes for the pellet boiler to reach, say, 130F. If it doesn't, it will start the oil boiler and its circ pump.
The water from the manifold, fed by either boiler, will recirculate through the 130F Caleffi 280 ThermoMix valve and then onward to the tank and/or zone circs, if there is a demand for heat.
The zone circs won't start up unless the top of the tank is a certain temp, say, 130F.
I think that's about it. After I tie up some loose ends, I'll see how the oil burner heats things up and then it'll be on to the pellet boiler. That's the plan anyway.
If the pellet boiler drops back under 130F, its circ pump won't be allowed to come back on again until the pellet boiler is again above 130. That Ranco controller, is two stage and there is a timer for each stage. Stage 1 is the test for if the pellet boiler is indeed cold with a call for heat, and stage 2 only allows the boiler pump to come on if it's more than 130F and then keeps it running for 10 minutes or so after the call for heat is over. The sensor for that Ranco controller is located in the thermowell, which I've sealed with a little electrical penetration sealer putty (clay), but I might change that.what will happen if the pellet boiler temperature drops back under 130F again (at start-up) ?
1 degree F. The controller, stage 2 as noted above, is set at 130, Cooling, Normally Open, with a differential of 1. So, when it gets to 130, it will close, allow the pellet pump to run, and then when it drops to 129 the contacts will open.What is the differential to cut the circulator?
Me too. I don't think I'll have time to mess with the bin this year, so taking off the vacuum feeder is also on the list. I will read the install manual first and take pictures of the way it currently is, so I don't forget, lol.Looking forward to come over and do the commissioning.