Need help fireplace won’t flame up

[Mta]

So my fireplace is not working right I can light the pilot with the wall switch but it won’t flame up please help


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[DAKSY]

And what manufacturer & model do you have. We're good but not THAT good.

 

[Mta]

It’s a heatilator not sure of the model


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[Mta]

.
Hope this helps


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[Mta]

And what manufacturer & model do you have. We're good but not THAT good.

I posted a pic and it’s a heatilator


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[DAKSY]

View attachment 218083.
Hope this helps


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That doesn't help. Look for the rating plate.
It's usually attached to the bottom of the unit & to the right of the gas valve.
That's where the model number is.

 

[Mta]

That doesn't help. Look for the rating plate.
It's usually attached to the bottom of the unit & to the right of the gas valve.
That's where the model number is.

I believe I found the rating plate but could not find a model number any more thoughts


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[Mta]

Okay sry for the confusion but I found the model number is ndv4236l


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[DAKSY]

When did it last work OK?

 

[Mta]

When did it last work OK?

I’m really not sure we just bought this house so I’m not sure when it was last working


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[DAKSY]

 

[Bri_Wess]

Hi MTA & DAKSY... Did you figure this problem out yet? I have the SAME problem with mine.. I did find this trouble shooting doc and followed the instructions, all my voltages tested correct according to the doc, but same here, I have a NICE burning pilot that lights with a couple sparks, but the main burner won't light up..

See Doc Below:

 

[Bri_Wess]

 

[Millbilly]

Check voltage to main burner valve. If good then check behind the burner orifice for a spider nest.

 

[Bri_Wess]

Check voltage to main burner valve. If good then check behind the burner orifice for a spider nest.

Thanks MILLBILLY, my Voltage to the MAIN registered 1.85v while switch and Pilot were ON.. However, I can't figure out how to have a peek behind the burner orifice? See my picture attached, I can't figure out how to remove that whole piece where the flame comes from (with the slits).. Any suggestions? thanks.. .

 

[blades]

does this have a forced air exhaust blower ? if so there is a sail switch that must be actuated by the blower stream before the main gas valve will open . web, leaves or other debris could be blocking its movement or the switch could be bad. Another culprit is the thermo couple/ or something similar not sensing the heat rise from the pilot light- same problem no main gas valve opening
Both of these are common problems.

 

[DAKSY]

Try cleaning the two rods that are in the pilot flame with emery or steel wool. If they are dirty, the flame rectification can't occur.
As far as removing the burner pan, FIRST, you will have to remove ALL the rocks. Then look for more 1/4" hex head screws.
Once they are removed the frame above the burner & around the perimeter of the fire box should lift off.
Once that's been removed, you should see how the burner pan is secured.

 

[Bri_Wess]

Link Removed Link Removed Link Removed

BLADE: I don't think it has a blower, I've looked all around and took a pic of the exhaust port outside, appears to be just a simple opening.. Is there a way to test with my meter if the thermo couple is failing to open the gas valve?

DAKSY: Thanks, got the pan all apart and can see clearly into the GAS line, no obstructions that I can see.. Also used sand paper to clean the Rods, still no good.. After a lot of googling and reading, I'm leaning toward the Valve or Module being bad... Do you guys know of a way to verify if one or both are bad, like with the meter, or should I just order both and replace both.. I found a valve for around $100 and module for $60.. all help MUCH appreciated guys..

and like to say "SORRY" to Mta for highjacking his thread~! Maybe will help him too..

 

[DAKSY]

View attachment 218995 Link Removed Link Removed Link Removed View attachment 218993 View attachment 218994 BLADE: I don't think it has a blower, I've looked all around and took a pic of the exhaust port outside, appears to be just a simple opening.. Is there a way to test with my meter if the thermo couple is failing to open the gas valve?

DAKSY: Thanks, got the pan all apart and can see clearly into the GAS line, no obstructions that I can see.. After a lot of googling and reading, I'm leaning toward the Valve or Module being bad... Do you guys know of a way to verify if one or both are bad, like with the meter, or should I just order both and replace both.. I found a valve for around $100 and module for $60.. all help MUCH appreciated guys..

Follow step "E" in my post dated 17 Dec to test the module

 

[Bri_Wess]

Follow step "E" in my post dated 17 Dec to test the module

ok, so I remove the "I" terminal wire from the module and when I flip it on I can hear the ZAPPING noise, but no spark.. With it plugged in I can see the spark... So appears to be working correctly.. So my pilot will lite and I seem to get retification becasue the sparking stops right after the pilot is lit.. Just no MAIN gas burner.. So you thinking Valve problem?

 

[DAKSY]

Did you verify EVERY other step in the troubleshooting procedure?
Valves very seldom go bad.
Did you try "rapping" on the gas valve with the plastic handle of a screwdriver?

 

[Bri_Wess]

Did you verify EVERY other step in the troubleshooting procedure?
Valves very seldom go bad.
Did you try "rapping" on the gas valve with the plastic handle of a screwdriver?

 

[Bri_Wess]

I think so, I checked every connection and ensured all tight, Checked the sensing rod, ceramic looks good around it, let the pilot burn until the sensing rod glows orange.. I believe its grounded properly because I can get a pilot lit and burn non stop, so that means that retification is happening and electrical is working.. The only thing I can't verify is the valve.. Based on what I've read, it's a solenoid valve, and I've got 1.85v going to it while on, so my understanding is the current should open the valve.. but I don't know how to verify that its actually opening...

Oh, I just tried hitting it a few times like yo said.. but nothing...

 

[DAKSY]

If the valve opens, you will hear a "click" as the electromagnets open to let the gas flow.
Sometimes they get stuck together after they have been closed for an extended period of time.
That's the reason for tapping on the valve. Could be a bad solenoid, but I don't know how to test that.
If you can obtain a replacement solenoid from your local Heatilator dealer, that should the least expensive
path.

 

[Bri_Wess]

DAKSY: I just opened this guy up (The MAIN side) and a bunch of liquid spilled out of the line that connects to the valve... Is that normal? I was able to blow through the line with my mouth to ensure no blockage.. Is there a way to test the solenoid, like with a AA battery to listen for the click? See photo...