Need some Big Heat

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I should also add I do have a furnace to supplement heat but I would prefer not to use it. My goal is to heat 2400 square feet in -20 temperatures.
It will be hard to tell. An open floor plan and a good heat distribution is what can make the differences more that going as big as you can.
 
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Everyones comfort levels vary, and how much of that 2400 you want to keep how warm also comes into play along with other things like house layout & heat loss etc., but I would be considering adding on a wood furnace, just based on hearing wanting to heat 2400 sq.ft. in -20 temps. Without knowing much else about the overall situation.
 
I know a lot of variables come into play but what burn times can I expect from the Englander 30 NC?

This is a loaded question. I burn my nc30 at maximum safe output all the time to intermittently heat a well insulated but large shop building. I load it to the roof with dry local firewoods which have middle of the road to low btu content and try to hold 700 degree temperatures with a good blower running. Three hours is all I get and it’s down to just a couple inches of coals for a warm reload.

This stove wants to run hot. Running below 600 or so results in smoke emissions which means pollution and even more wasted wood.

It’s a good stove and I doubt that any similar sized steel plate stove at the same temperature makes any more heat. The output ratings are pretty bogus. Look at firebox size.

If any wood furnace would burn clean enough to be allowed in Washington, I would prefer a wood furnace since I’m already running a noisy blower even if didn’t use any ductwork. The wood furnaces hav higher output since the exhaust pipes run back and forth in the cabinet with the blower extracting and moving way more heat. Most are reasonably cheap too. None have very long burn times.
 
Burn time is ambiguous. There are so many variables. For most people it's more helpful to think in terms of period of meaningful heat. (The time between reloads) That is going to depend on the house that the stove is in. Most people owning the 30NC report reloading every 8-12 hrs.. This is totally dependent on the outdoor temps, wood being burned, house insulation, etc.. If you are in a leaky, cold house or any place losing heat quickly it could be 6 hrs..
 
Burn time is ambiguous. There are so many variables. For most people it's more helpful to think in terms of period of meaningful heat. (The time between reloads) That is going to depend on the house that the stove is in. Most people owning the 30NC report reloading every 8-12 hrs.. This is totally dependent on the outdoor temps, wood being burned, house insulation, etc.. If you are in a leaky, cold house or any place losing heat quickly it could be 6 hrs..

I disagree with your theory. It doesn’t matter if the stove is outside or in a closet. The stove doesn’t have a brain, it is a tool that you use to heat your space. The stove just burns the fuel at whatever rate you select and at max output rate I only get three hours between loads. That’s my data point. Do you have a data point? Have you ever burned an nc30?

The guys getting 12 hours (if there are any) are the ones running at lowest possible output, burning high btu fuel, starting the clock at ignition, and stopping the clock at the point where there may only be a spec of an ember in a nearly cold stove. That’s a data point though.

How’s this? Burn time in the nc30 is 3-12 hours depending on desired output.
 
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I disagree with your theory. It doesn’t matter if the stove is outside or in a closet. The stove doesn’t have a brain, it is a tool that you use to heat your space. The stove just burns the fuel at whatever rate you select and at max output rate I only get three hours between loads. That’s my data point. Do you have a data point? Have you ever burned an nc30?

The guys getting 12 hours (if there are any) are the ones running at lowest possible output, burning high btu fuel, starting the clock at ignition, and stopping the clock at the point where there may only be a spec of an ember in a nearly cold stove. That’s a data point though.

How’s this? Burn time in the nc30 is 3-12 hours depending on desired output.

But - if the user has a higher heat load/loss, he will select a higher burn rate/output. Therefore shorter burn times for leakier houses. It's just that it doesn't happen automatically.

The OP needs a furnace anyway so should just go get one & end the banter from you stove guys - lol. :)
 
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But - if the user has a higher heat load/loss, he will select a higher burn rate/output. Therefore shorter burn times for leakier houses. It's just that it doesn't happen automatically.

The OP needs a furnace anyway so should just go get one & end the banter from you stove guys - lol. :)

With a furnace on a thermostat, burn time and burn rate really are automatically adjusted.

Dang I wish they burned cleaner. Soon though, with the newest furnace regs, we should see some improvement with that.
 
The OP says “big”, and nobody responds with the massive J.A.ROBY Ultimate? At 4.7 cu.ft., it dwarfs a Princess... and just about anything else on the market. More importantly for most, it will run on a 6” flue.
 
I don't think the J.A. Roby Ultimate is EPA approved. I mentioned the Quad Adventure III early on at 4.5 cu ft. In another thread he seems to be looking at low cost options now.
 
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Wow! The roby and magnum stoves look impressive. Looks like there is a dealer about two hours away, may have to give them a call. Is the magnum epa approved?
 
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Wow! The roby and magnum stoves look impressive. Looks like there is a dealer about two hours away, may have to give them a call. Is the magnum epa approved?
I may have called out the wrong model, with the Ultimate, but I was pretty sure Roby had some EPA-approved 4+ cu.ft. stoves.

Of course, there's still the Blaze King King model. Likely the best wood heater on earth, if you can stomach the cosmetics and swing the 8" pipe.
 
Wow! The roby and magnum stoves look impressive. Looks like there is a dealer about two hours away, may have to give them a call. Is the magnum epa approved?
I don't see either on the Nov 2017 EPA listing. The J.A.Roby stoves listed are:
Cook, Cicero, Chief, Cuistot, Elda, and Marmiton, Polaris, Centauri, Vega, Sirius, Antares, and Rigel

It looks like the Quad Adventure III is the largest 6" flue collar stove that's EPA listed.
 
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I don't see either on the Nov 2017 EPA listing. The J.A.Roby stoves listed are:
Cook, Cicero, Chief, Cuistot, Elda, and Marmiton, Polaris, Centauri, Vega, Sirius, Antares, and Rigel

It looks like the Quad Adventure III is the largest 6" flue collar stove that's EPA listed.


http://www.jaroby.com/img/boutique/archives/magnum_en-6k4yd.pdf

I'm not sure if this is EPA numbers but the magnum stove shows 2.4 GR/HR test standard CAN/CSA STD B415.1-10 ULC STD S627.00 UL 1482-7
 
The magnum shows: Standard test - emissions :CSA B415.1-10. Not sure if this is within EPA guidelines?
 
I've got a 2,300 square foot house here in southern New Hampshire that I am able to heat pretty well with an Englander 30NC. I've heard good things about the Drolet HT200, and I can't say enough about the Englander I have. Firebox on the Englander is 3.5 cu. feet compared to 3.2 for that Vogelzang. Englander has a good quality track record for reliability too. If you're not in a rush, there are usually steep discounts on the stoves through Home Depot at some point in the spring. Check back here to find them. I got mine a few years ago for $519 I believe it was, screaming deal.
 
The magnum shows: Standard test - emissions :CSA B415.1-10. Not sure if this is within EPA guidelines?
They may have chosen to not have their largest stoves EPA tested. Large stoves can be harder to qualify for all testing due.
 
A JA Roby dealer in Grand Rapids Minnesota told me the Roby Ultimate is not sold in the U.S. Lucky for me their is a dealer two hours away in Canada. I wish there were a few Roby users on here with quality info.
 
'Big' heat?

'Big' is a relative term - but stoves are space heaters, and furnaces or boilers are central units capable of heating an entire house. Which is what I think when I hear 'big' heat. Any of those thoughts crossed your mind or a possibility? You must have another system of some kind in place also - what would it be?

If a central unit has been or is completely ruled out, carry on - some don't consider it though & later realize they should have.

I see a 3500 sq.ft. rating for a stove noted above - to me that kind of talk is kind of silly. I think anyone with a 3500 sq.ft. house who would buy a stove expecting to heat their entire 3500 sq.ft. will be sadly disappointed. That's a lot of sq.fts.
Really ??
I'm heating about 2000 sq.ft. More than that !!
 
Really ??
I'm heating about 2000 sq.ft. More than that !!

Depends mostly on floor plan and construction, and yours must be fairly close to ideal, if you’re heating 5500 sq.ft. with nothing but a single wood stove.
 
Depends mostly on floor plan and construction, and yours must be fairly close to ideal, if you’re heating 5500 sq.ft. with nothing but a single wood stove.
Yes, very open floor plan..
 
If a stove does not pass EPA regulations in the state you reside in does this mean you cannot operate the stove or just cannot purchase it in that state?
 
It's no longer allowed to be sold in the country.
 
The last few days have been quite informative many questions regarding BTU's, radiant heat vs convection heat have helped me decide what is best in my given heating situation. Although the BTU's do not seem very high I fairly sure I'm am going with the BK princess. The ease of use and consistent burn times are the dealmakers. Just out of curiosity how do you think the BK will improve improve the heat in my 2300 square foot house compared to my current pellet stove

http://www.pelprostoves.com/Products/PP130-Pellet-Stove.aspx

I know it may be impossible to know until I make the switch but someone out there should have a fairly educated guess.