Needing Assistance in Figuring Out Which Stove

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Parallax

Minister of Fire
Dec 2, 2013
922
Bellingham, WA
This is no doubt a question you've seen before and I didn't initially post it because I'm new here and there's an instruction to read up before posting which stove to buy. But several regulars have suggested I post a new thread so here's my question.

I've got a 2650 square foot 2-story home that was built in 2006. It's well made but does have numerous windows and skylights. It's located in the Pacific Northwest, though my particular location sometimes gets a bit colder than most of the region. Right now, there's snow on the ground (though this is unusual for this time of year). It's typically in the 40s during the day and raining; maybe a bit cooler at night. We'll typically get snow a few times in January and February, though a couple of years ago temps got down to 15 degrees for a few days.

Right now the house is heated with radiant but it's powered by propane and this is costing us a fortune. I'd like to find a stove that can entirely heat the home and then we'd just use propane for hot water, cooking and a mostly decorative fireplace in the living room (that we almost never run). We do not currently have a wood stove.

The lower floor has a horseshoe shape and an open floor plan. Only the bathroom, laundry room and an office are separated from the living areas with doors. The front entry opens into the living room then the home bends 45 degrees into a dining room and then another 45 degrees to the kitchen and breakfast area and then to the family room which, itself turns 90 degrees to the bathroom, laundry room and garage.

The upstairs has a master bedroom and bath plus two other bedrooms and a hall bath. The staircase runs up from the entry way of the home. So we're considering placing the stove either at the other end of the horseshoe, in the family room, so the heat can run across the house before getting sucked up the stairs, or right in the middle of the first floor (in the dining room) and blowing it forward. Given the 45 degree angle toward both wings, some of the air should move toward the family room and some should move toward the living room and then run upstairs.

The dining room installation would be more aesthetically pleasing, placing the stove right in the middle of everything, but it would require running the pipe up over a window and then bending 90 degrees to go out through a wall and then bending 90 degrees again to run straight up the side of the house. It would also cause the pipe to run right in front of the main window in the master bedroom. Placing it in the family room would allow the pipe to run straight up through the roof. However, I'd have to rip out a built in entertainment center on the other side of the room because my wife insists on not having two focal points.

The biggest issue we're wrestling with is choice of stoves. We saw and really like the Lopi Cape Cod in the brown enamel finish. Gorgeous stove that's supposed to be really efficient. However, some of the folks who post here have had problems with warped baffles and andirons and one regular member had a cracked firebox. Also, given that we're often out for 12 or more hours at a time, the stove would go out at times.

It has a push button start feature so maybe that's not a big deal. We're hoping that our home, being modern and well built, would hold in the heat that was emitted during the day.

Another stove we're considering, based on the positive recommendations here, is the Blaze King Ashford -- which looks similar to the Cape Cod (though probably not as nice) and can burn for a really long time. This stove is rated for fewer square feet (2400 vs the Cod's 3000 -- according to the brochures). We could consider Blaze King's largest stove (the King), but we find it really ugly and it would probably be overkill 90% or more of the time. According to one very experienced member who has used both stoves, the Ashford would burn less wood and that's important to us. My sense is it wouldn't be as pretty to look at when it is burning, given that it's a cat stove designed to run most efficiently at lower settings.

It's hard to figure out what the best choice is. We're not necessarily limited to these two stoves, though I would have no idea how to move forward if we went with a stove not sold by a local dealer.

One last issue is price. The Lopi dealer will charge us $8,000 to $9,000 for the Cape Cod -- installed (depending on which location). Some have suggested this seems high. However, keep in mind that's with the enamel finish, quick start button and the fan.

Our lowest cost option so far is a dealer who would install an Osborn 2400 (rated for 2700 square feet according to the brochure), with the fan, for $4500 to $5000. We don't much like the look of that stove, but I'm wondering if it's a good choice. Another dealer swore by the Lennox stoves. Again, they're nothing much to look at.

We're open to considering stoves we've not seen yet, assuming we can find it and get it installed. I'm not qualified to do the installation myself. My wife and I know essentially nothing about wood stoves so the opinions of those more experienced are greatly appreciated. So far, we're leaning away from the Lopi due to concerns others have expressed about defects and the fact that, according to one person who used both, it goes through way more wood than the Ashford. But I'd be curious if anyone else has used this stove and what their experience has been. Thanks.
 
Trying to get a single source of heat to evenly distribute in 2650 sqft of area is going to be difficult at best. A couple of things to keep in mind: Heat doesn't like to move down. Consider that for your stove placement (a diagram would help) and the ability to create a thermal loop is desired for even heating.
You would be well advised to probably ignore the sqft advertising of stoves. These are more marketing ploy than real world application. Go by firebox size first - then the build of the stove (cat/non-cat, soapstone, etc.). You will get a better feel as you continue your homework. Large square footage coupled with a more temperate heat requirement would probably start me out looking at a good sized cat stove. There are several on the markets. The advantage of a cat in your situation would be long drawn out lower stove temps. A 3 cuft stove running 350F for 10 hours is a world away from a 3 cuft stove running at 650 for 6 hours.

More folks will chime in I am sure...
 
I agree 100% with ignoring the Sq Ft claims, or at elast not relying on them. Our stove is rated up to 2,000 sq ft and it heats 700 sq ft in our house. It can be a bit tricky in shoulder season, but when it's 35 or so and below, it works out, and can even be not quite enough if it's in the lower teens.

If I had it to do over again and it had been available, I'd have seriously considered the BK Sirocco or Ashford. I'd like the cat for shoulder season.

Have you looked at the Woodstock Progress Hybrid? That's a NICE looking stove. I'm not sure of Cu Ft of it.

Depending on your floor plan and air flow, you might be able to do it with an Ashford given your climate and insulation. But I'm no expert!
 
Trying to get a single source of heat to evenly distribute in 2650 sqft of area is going to be difficult at best.
I think it's just a matter of expectations, and your definition of "even". If it's 20F outside, and the temps thru the various rooms of my house are 65F to 75F, I call that pretty even.

Since most prefer their bedroom cooler for sleeping, and the living room warmer for umm... "waking," this works out okay. Stove placement is key, as is keeping it running 24/7. If I keep my stove running, the temps in the house can stay pretty even, definitely within 5 degrees across two entire floors. If I let the stove go out and the house get cold, I can easily heat the room or two adjacent to the stove back up in short order, but it really takes a good two days or more, before the entire house evens out again.
 
I think it's just a matter of expectations, and your definition of "even". If it's 20F outside, and the temps thru the various rooms of my house are 65F to 75F, I call that pretty even.
Yep - each will have their own definition of acceptable. Other than my bedroom that I keep closed (cool). I have no more than a two degree swing from one end of the house to the other.
 
In your review, you said you like the regular black finish though you had initially wanted the enamel. If both are available, which one would you choose and why?

I thought I would migrate over to your new thread.
If the Enamel is available I would definitely get it, I love the brown! BK has been working full steam ahead to get em out, they might be caught up soon.
 
The dealer tells me they're still working to perfect the brown enamel. He also tells me I would get a better install if it were to happen when it was warmer outside. Well, actually he said it would be a lot easier to do the install right if his guys didn't have to go up on an icy roof and we weren't dealing with all the issues winter brings, including his full schedule and shorter daylight hours. He said I could find a dealer who has time, but the best ones tend to be busy this time of year. He also said he'd be more likely to cut a few bucks off the project.

So maybe I'll wait until summer and do it then. Will also be easier to build the wood shed and both easier and cheaper to find dry wood. Plus, by then I'll be able to see the Ashford in enamel (hopefully). Meanwhile, we've shut down the propane and are heating the place (minimally) with electric space heaters.
 
This is no doubt a question you've seen before and I didn't initially post it because I'm new here and there's an instruction to read up before posting which stove to buy. But several regulars have suggested I post a new thread so here's my question.

Another stove we're considering, based on the positive recommendations here, is the Blaze King Ashford -- which looks similar to the Cape Cod (though probably not as nice) and can burn for a really long time. This stove is rated for fewer square feet (2400 vs the Cod's 3000 -- according to the brochures). We could consider Blaze King's largest stove (the King), but we find it really ugly and it would probably be overkill 90% or more of the time. According to one very experienced member who has used both stoves, the Ashford would burn less wood and that's important to us. My sense is it wouldn't be as pretty to look at when it is burning, given that it's a cat stove designed to run most efficiently at lower settings.

It's hard to figure out what the best choice is. We're not necessarily limited to these two stoves, though I would have no idea how to move forward if we went with a stove not sold by a local dealer.

One last issue is price. The Lopi dealer will charge us $8,000 to $9,000 for the Cape Cod -- installed (depending on which location). Some have suggested this seems high. However, keep in mind that's with the enamel finish, quick start button and the fan.

Our lowest cost option so far is a dealer who would install an Osborn 2400 (rated for 2700 square feet according to the brochure), with the fan, for $4500 to $5000. We don't much like the look of that stove, but I'm wondering if it's a good choice. Another dealer swore by the Lennox stoves. Again, they're nothing much to look at.

I would suggest visiting with Tom Oyen at The Chimneysweep on Harris Ave. to look at the Hearthstone Mansfield and Manchester and to speak with them about installation. I'm personally leary of recommending any stove less than a year old, but the Ashford definitely should be considered too as it is a new wrapper on a proven firebox, similar to the PE Alderleas but with a cat.
http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/
 
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So cool that you know a dealer in Bellingham. I see you're in the region.

That Manchester stove is gorgeous. What do you like about it? I notice it doesn't have the burn time of the Ashford.
 
Tom runs a beautiful, first class stove shop. He's a hearth.com member and his shop is where I bought our stove from. He puts customer satisfaction first.

Nothing is going to beat the Ashford for burntime. BK has legendary burn times. But when it's cold out and you have a big space to heat, the stove is going to be pushed and have burn times much more in line with a non-cat stove. The big advantage of those long burn times comes out during our endless shoulder season temps when serious heat is not first priority.
 
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Tom runs a beautiful, first class stove shop. He's a hearth.com member and his shop is where I bought our stove from. He puts customer satisfaction first.

Nothing is going to beat the Ashford for burntime. BK has legendary burn times. But when it's cold out and you have a big space to heat, the stove is going to be pushed and have burn times much more in line with a non-cat stove. The big advantage of those long burn times comes out during our endless shoulder season temps when serious heat is not first priority.

Given the climate, it seems Ashford might be the way to go. Gets just as hot as the non-cats when full open and can throttle down when all that heat's not necessary. Does a stove like the Manchester have advantages over the Ashford?
 
It looks better and has good mass with the soapstone lining. My only concern with the Ashford is whether it is large enough for the house. 2650 sq ft is pushing into the BK King territory. How tight is the place, how well sealed and insulated?
 
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The dealer tells me they're still working to perfect the brown enamel. He also tells me I would get a better install if it were to happen when it was warmer outside. Well, actually he said it would be a lot easier to do the install right if his guys didn't have to go up on an icy roof and we weren't dealing with all the issues winter brings, including his full schedule and shorter daylight hours. He said I could find a dealer who has time, but the best ones tend to be busy this time of year. He also said he'd be more likely to cut a few bucks off the project.

So maybe I'll wait until summer and do it then. Will also be easier to build the wood shed and both easier and cheaper to find dry wood. Plus, by then I'll be able to see the Ashford in enamel (hopefully). Meanwhile, we've shut down the propane and are heating the place (minimally) with electric space heaters.

Not really going to try to narrowing down your stove selection but I'll talk about wood. I had 3-4 locusts taken down that I split and stacked before I began seriously researching my stove during the next spring and summer. Installed in late summer and began burning 15-16 month CSS wood that I thought was seasoned.

While that might have been better than some, my inexperience with the wood needs of an EPA stove (I had experience w/ older technology airtight stove) showed and I still struggled a bit the first year. So I would recommend while you consider your options get started on your wood supply. If you can get started now it will pay off later.
 
Good point. One caveat with a cat stove is that they like wet wood even less than a non-cat. I'm not sure where you would get semi-seasoned wood at this late date.
 
One reason I figured I'd wait is because it's said to be easier to get dry wood in the summer. Will use a moisture meter to make sure of it. And then I'll build a wood shed, 5 feet by 20 feet (which is as large as the neighborhood CC&Rs allow. Hopefully that will be large enough to allow me to keep more than one-year's supply. I guess it depends how much wood it takes to run the thing. If 4 x 4 x 8 is a chord, maybe I can stack 5 x 20 x 8 hight (or higher). I think that's 6 1/4 chords, possibly enough for 2 heating seasons (though maybe not).
 
Being that you have radiant, which is awesome, and looking at the prices you've been quoted, I would take a good look at one of those catalyst outdoor wood boilers which would be very easy to hook in to what you have while keeping propane as a backup.

This is if the very "eco-conscious" folks in Bellingham, WA allow wood boilers. (Never mind that wood is carbon neutral and totally renewable) Another thing to consider is that I think you're burning a lot of pine out there. Last time I drove up I5 to B-Ham it seemed like wall-to-wall pines. Lower heat value per volume means shorter burns in a conventional wood stove, but you can load up monster rounds into a boiler with no issues. Plus you get to keep your radiant heat. The most comfortable house, by far, I've ever spent time in had an OWB powering the radiant heat and that home was a rock solid 72F all winter long despite temps running towards the low end of -30F night after night.

So that's what I would look into.
Have a drink for me at the Bellweather!
 
One reason I figured I'd wait is because it's said to be easier to get dry wood in the summer. Will use a moisture meter to make sure of it. And then I'll build a wood shed, 5 feet by 20 feet (which is as large as the neighborhood CC&Rs allow. Hopefully that will be large enough to allow me to keep more than one-year's supply. I guess it depends how much wood it takes to run the thing. If 4 x 4 x 8 is a chord, maybe I can stack 5 x 20 x 8 hight (or higher). I think that's 6 1/4 chords, possibly enough for 2 heating seasons (though maybe not).

Not so sure it will be easier to get dry wood in the summer. It seems most sellers split the wood not too long before they sell it, maybe a few months earlier at best so the earlier you get it the better. If you purchase in the summer it may have been split 2-3 months earlier and you will have poorly seasoned wood when you need it.

If you were to get wood in January it would have almost a year of seasoning by the time you need it plus whatever time the seller allowed it to dry before delivery. Doesn't need to be in a wood shed the first year anyway. In any case I don't want to belabor the point just something to think about since most first year burners end up having wood issues.
 
Get next season's wood in March. The wood dealer's will be in slack time and prices will be better. Stack the wood so that the prevailing SW winds can blow through the stack. Get doug fir if softwood is all that's available. It burns hot and well.
 
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Get next season's wood in March. The wood dealer's will be in slack time and prices will be better. Stack the wood so that the prevailing SW winds can blow through the stack. Get doug fir if softwood is all that's available. It burns hot and well.
Worth repeating. If you buy wood next summer, it won't be ready to burn next fall. In fact, if you have wood split and stacked today, many species won't be ready to burn next fall. If you're collecting your own, spend this winter doing it. If you're buying, I'd get it bought and stacked today. It doesn't need to go under cover for next fall until August, so you can still build your shed next summer, if that's the way you plan to cover your wood. Most stack out in the sun until August/September of the year they plan to burn it.
 
Thanks for all the advice on the wood. I'll get going on that and just stack it up in the yard for now.

People have been suggesting some beautiful stoves that seem nicer looking than the Ashford. But none would seem to burn anywhere near as long. I'm starting to think the practical considerations justify going with the Ashford, even if it means compromising on the view of the fire and the box itself. Does anyone think I'm off base.

This is for those who know the Ashford. What is that weird stuff on the back of the stove? Seems like two pieces run behind the firebox, one on each side of the pipe. What are they for?

Also, need I be concerned that the firebox is 2.75 cubic feet, rather than 3.0 like the CC and some of the other large stoves?
 
Being that you have radiant, which is awesome, and looking at the prices you've been quoted, I would take a good look at one of those catalyst outdoor wood boilers which would be very easy to hook in to what you have while keeping propane as a backup.

This is if the very "eco-conscious" folks in Bellingham, WA allow wood boilers. (Never mind that wood is carbon neutral and totally renewable) Another thing to consider is that I think you're burning a lot of pine out there. Last time I drove up I5 to B-Ham it seemed like wall-to-wall pines. Lower heat value per volume means shorter burns in a conventional wood stove, but you can load up monster rounds into a boiler with no issues. Plus you get to keep your radiant heat. The most comfortable house, by far, I've ever spent time in had an OWB powering the radiant heat and that home was a rock solid 72F all winter long despite temps running towards the low end of -30F night after night.

So that's what I would look into.
Have a drink for me at the Bellweather!

That's an interesting idea. What would it cost to put in a boiler? We wouldn't get the ambiance of the wood stove, which is one of the reasons we like it. Would it be more efficient in terms of burning less wood?

Our radiant system is not all that great. The pex is stapled to the floor boards with no transfer plates and the insulation is inadequate. So we'd probably have to upgrade that too. Eventually I might add insulation anyway because I assume we're losing heat through the floors into the crawl space. But if the wood stove were doing the job, it might not be necessary.

I get that radiant's a great way to move heat through the home. But is it that much nicer than the hot air moving off the stove itself? Assuming we could get air movement adequate to warm the house of course.
 
Someone in my neighborhood is selling a used Striker wood stove. The manufacture date is April, 1990 and it says on the back that it meets the 1990 EPA particulate emissions standards for 1990. The internet says the standard was 8.5 grams at that time. The current Washington standard is 4.5 grams and Blaze King claims the Ashford emits just under 1 gram.

The Striker isn't designed to heat a home as large as mine. And I'm sure it's not anywhere near as efficient as today's stoves. But I could pick it up for almost nothing. Might it be worth buying and paying someone to install it now, and then replacing it later (maybe in the summer). That way we'd have a source of heat through these winter months. It comes with the stove pipe and cap, though I would imagine other parts would be necessary to put it in my home.

For what it's worth, I would not do the installation myself. I'd have to find someone to hire.
 
The C160 Striker is a small stove. You would need a couple to keep your place warm.

Answering the other question, the main downside with the Ashford will be that there isn't much to look at for a fireview most of time. Unless the stove is being pushed there will be little flame, just a glowing cat doing its job.
 
That stove is going to be too small for the square footage your looking to heat.
You should really consider centrally locating the stove. Without a good convection loop, the heat may not travel across from one side of the house to the other as your hoping.
It will spread more evenly if centrally located.
You may find during the milder weather the Ashford may heat the place fairly well, but if you get any cold snap for weather, it is doubtful it will heat 2600+ sf.
I am burning a 3cf insert, and I am glad I went no smaller, though we get colder temps than you. There are about a handful of days each season, I wish I had an even larger firebox with more output.
Just don't want to see you spend that money and in the dead of winter have issues with a full firebox, not being able to keep up with the heat demand.
There are many here that regret that mistake.
Research is your friend, no sense rushing into a choice, that you will regret later.
I'd say pick 2 or 3 stoves that come as close as possible to your wants & needs, then narrow down to one,
If you let form override function, that may be regrettable also in the end.
 
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