New Bar And Chain, Wow

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I switched to the 2n1 this year too. I like it even better than my Granberg.

Advice:

- Always clamp the bar (get a stump vise, they are cheap)
- Make sure you grab the right 2n1 out of the box if you have different file sizes in there; please do not ask how this item got on the list
- A cheap slide caliper is an easy and reasonably fast way to find the short tooth and check lengths
- Use a jig or pro sharpening every so often to get tooth lengths reset properly
- At first, inspect every tooth after sharpening to see how you are doing
 
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Crooked cuts are usually one side is sharpened better then the other.
That is an issue when you find it hard to do the "other side".
I turn my saw upside down to do the "other side" and my cuts are straightish.
I hadn't thought of this simple, elegant solution, and I have always had an issue getting both sides even. Really like it! Now I just need to figure out something to catch all the bar oil and gas that spills out. ;-)

You just inspired another idea- just put the chain on backwards, then switch back when finished. I'll have to try both.
 
I hadn't thought of this simple, elegant solution, and I have always had an issue getting both sides even. Really like it! Now I just need to figure out something to catch all the bar oil and gas that spills out. ;-)

You just inspired another idea- just put the chain on backwards, then switch back when finished. I'll have to try both.
You shouldn't have any issues with losing oil and gas unless you vents have issues or been opened up.
And it that is the case sharpen before you fill.
 
You shouldn't have any issues with losing oil and gas unless you vents have issues or been opened up.
And it that is the case sharpen before you fill.
I always like to fill up the tanks before I sharpen, in case of emergencies.
 
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I am trying to come up with scenarios here.

Maybe if you are distracted by sharpening the chain and can't reach your shotgun, and suddenly zombies pop out of the bushes, but NOOOO you're out of gas? :)
Exactly!

I was hoping someone was paying attention. thanks Jetsam.
 
In my experience, regular Oregon/Husqvarna files are too soft. Stihl or SaveEdge files work much better on my Sthil chains.

yup, I use SaveEdge files.
 
What is the negative result (if there is one) of taking the rakers down too far? I have done mine by eye and wondered if I screwed up.
 
What is the negative result (if there is one) of taking the rakers down too far? I have done mine by eye and wondered if I screwed up.

The saw will become very "grabby" and suck the wood into you when cutting from the top or push it away from you when undercutting. On less powerful saws the chain will stop. You will know if you take them down way too far.....as soon as you touch the wood the chain will want to dig like crazy and stop itself in it's tracks.
 
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Mine definetly grabs! Mission accomplished there haha! Does it affect how long the chain will stay sharp for?
 
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Mine definetly grabs! Mission accomplished there haha! Does it affect how long the chain will stay sharp for?
Of course. Hard on the saw and operator as well. Chains are endlessly complex and hard to get just right. But, you'll get it figured out.
 
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"Speed cuts."

If you rakers are too low and you are not Ashful, your saw slows down. You want to keep it running in the band where it makes the best power.

If you ARE Ashful, disregard the above and go ahead and just file the rakers off the chain completely, because you probably have a 50HP powerhead and it'll be fine. ;)
 
It cuts great for a bit but I figure it should stay sharp past 1 tank assuming I don’t hit something with it. I guess my shallow rakers are beating up the teeth. It is choppy when I’m cutting.