New Buckstove 91 insert not drawing well

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Those are the folks I was hoping you would hear from, they’ve helped us a lot along the way also… I’m sorry to hear all of this, but also where I thought it might be going, and why I backed out without their expertise.

I can tell you, if you have an ample supply of wood, that you should be very happy with the stove’s performance once you get your install lined out correctly. Be well, be safe.
I appreciate your help a lot! I'll keep updated once we get this resolved! Wish we would have know all this to begin with!

Can anyone advise what sweeping through the ss liner is like? If we use our insert daily 5-6 months/year how often are we sweeping and is that process difficult? (I realize everyone's is going to be slightly depending on wood burned and frequency)
 
It's a great stove and it will provide many years of good heating service, but it has to be installed safely and correctly. Don't get the liner from your supplier until you know what needs to go in, but also, don't delay in correcting this problem. Right now the stove is crippled in a potentially dangerous situation. It's like getting a new car and then putting old bald tires on it.
By 'what needs to go in it' are you just meaning which specific type of liner? (Rigid or flexible?)
 
If your not able to use the catalytic converter in the stove your burning dirty which is just lining the chimney with creosote which is just waiting for a spark to ignite it. Trust me as I have been through 2 chimney fires burning old smoke dragons till I found this website back in 2008 that taught me how I was burning was all wrong. I had a setup just like yours, we call them slammers since you just push the stove back and WOW was I glad I didn't burn my house down.

Draft is very important to burning clean using your catalytic converter in that stove, to little and it won't ignite properly and you will just get crap on your glass and smoke out the chimney. If it is working correctly all you should see is thin white puffs coming out and heat waves.

An Insulated 8" liner will be key on that insert since the exhaust will not be as hot due to the cat reburn.
We are actually already getting clear exhaust from the chimey..we see no smoke when we are using the catalyst. So I know it's working...I guess just not good enough to still be having the black inside it?
 
By 'what needs to go in it' are you just meaning which specific type of liner? (Rigid or flexible?)
The stainless liner can be either rigid or flexible. Before ordering you need the clay tile liner dimensions to know what will fit.
 
I appreciate your help a lot! I'll keep updated once we get this resolved! Wish we would have know all this to begin with!

Can anyone advise what sweeping through the ss liner is like? If we use our insert daily 5-6 months/year how often are we sweeping and is that process difficult? (I realize everyone's is going to be slightly depending on wood burned and frequency)
Typically once a year cleaning is plenty when installed properly.

Sweeping with a ss liner installed is much much easier than with a slammer. Cleaning with a liner you open the bypass and run a rotary cleaner up through that as a professional it typically takes me about 10 to 15 mins.

A slammer the insert needs to be pulled out. Usually rotary chain cleaners. Then hand scraping the firebox and smoke chamber. Vacuum off the smoke shelf then put the insert back. Usually about an hour to an hour and a half.

I also will not clean them anymore unless it is in preparation for a proper installation
 
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And yes you want a flexible liner
 
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The stainless liner can be either rigid or flexible. Before ordering you need the clay tile liner dimensions to know what will fit.
Where can you order from? Do you have a reputable place kr brand?
Otherwise we were planning to drive back to where we bought the insert to get one but it's about 1.5 hr drive so I'd just as soon order if it was comparable price (or cheaper!)
 
Is installing pretty straightforward and easy for a novice?
That depends. Some are extremely easy and we can be done in a couple hours. Others take our crew of 3 with many decades of experience a few days to install.
 
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That depends. Some are extremely easy and we can be done in a couple hours. Others take our crew of 3 with many decades of experience a few days to
Ok! Ours is in good shape. I was wrong ok shape. Husband said it's either 12x16 or something close to that and straight down, no build up (recently cleaned out) or cracks. It has a clay liner inside brick.
There is only the one 45° angle at the bottom to get out the damper(very similar to this picture) . Hopefully that will make for an easy install if we use the flexible pipe.

20221121_132012.jpg
 
Ok! Ours is in good shape. I was wrong ok shape. Husband said it's either 12x16 or something close to that and straight down, no build up (recently cleaned out) or cracks. It has a clay liner inside brick.
There is only the one 45° angle at the bottom to get out the damper(very similar to this picture) . Hopefully that will make for an easy install if we use the flexible pipe.

View attachment 303561
If it is actually that big yes it will be easy to install an insulated 8" liner in that chimney after opening up the damper area. It would be roughly 12x18 outside
 
That would be great if it is a 10 x 12. Measure to be sure. The reason being that the stove requires an 8" liner. If insulated, it will be 9" OD. The damper may need to be cut to clear the liner or removed.
 
That would be great if it is a 10 x 12. Measure to be sure. The reason being that the stove requires an 8" liner. If insulated, it will be 9" OD. The damper may need to be cut to clear the liner or removed.
He will measure. He said its rectangle and thought the smallest dimension was 10 or 12".
Removing the damper is the part my husband is most uncertain about..how does it need to come out?
Or is it OK to leave the damper if we are using a flexible liner?
 
He will measure. He said its rectangle and thought the smallest dimension was 10 or 12".
Removing the damper is the part my husband is most uncertain about..how does it need to come out?
Or is it OK to leave the damper if we are using a flexible liner?
No an 8" liner will not fit through. Without seeing the damper there is no way for me to know. It usually involves a grinder or sawzall and a hammer
 
When measuring the flue, also measure the damper opening at the top inside of the fireplace. If it is less than 9" then it needs to be cut with an angle grinder and/or sawzall, or removed. Use a cellphone to take pictures of what is there so that we can see what he is seeing. It's a dirty job, but that's the hardest part.
 
Some damper assemblies are easier than others to remove. Sometimes all it takes is to unbolt the pillow blocks that support the damper.
 
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Does anyone know how long the stainless steel liners last? Or are they good for 'lifetime'?
That depends upon the type of liner and how it's used. A heavy wall liner will easily last well over 30 years unless abused or used for coal.
 
That depends upon the type of liner and how it's used. A heavy wall liner will easily last well over 30 years unless abused or used for coal.
I believe my husband got an 8" ss flex liner. We plan to use it daily for our sole heat source 5-6 months of the year
 
I believe my husband got an 8" ss flex liner. We plan to use it daily for our sole heat source 5-6 months of the year
It depends what type of liner he got. If it's regular lightwall I would say 20-25 years as long as you don't have chimney fires. Did he get an insulation kit to go with it?
 
It depends what type of liner he got. If it's regular lightwall I would say 20-25 years as long as you don't have chimney fires. Did he get an insulation kit to go with it?
Well I thought it was supposed to have insulation (was told on the phone it did). But he just got home and we checked and it doesn't 😖. Is the insulation a big deal?
 
Well I thought it was supposed to have insulation (was told on the phone it did). But he just got home and we checked and it doesn't 😖. Is the insulation a big deal?
Yes
 
He said at the hearth shop where we have purchased everything the man told him he wouldn't need to insulate the entire pipe, just the very top to keep cold air from getting in (winter) and hot air from getting in (summer).
I find this all so confusing when everyone is telling us a different story
 
The need to insulate the liner is twofold. One is to keep the flue gases hotter. This improves draft and reduces creosote buildup. The second reason is code. Insulation is required unless the chimney has 1" clearance from combustibles all the way up.

Will it work without the insulation? Probably yes. Will is work better and be safer with the insulation, definitely yes.