New property means new saw.

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Ya I meant used value vs used value. Here 660s have a huge range from maybe 600.00 to 750.00 in decent shape. 064s around 550.00 to 675.00 neighborhood.
 
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So I wonder if the OP is as confused even more about what saw to get as I am lol. A lot of great info on this thread. If/when I need a new saw, I know “kinda” what to get. I still think my 026 is the best, for me anyways lol.
 
So I wonder if the OP is as confused even more about what saw to get as I am lol. A lot of great info on this thread. If/when I need a new saw, I know “kinda” what to get. I still think my 026 is the best, for me anyways lol.

026s were one of the all time best saws Stihl made. Arguments here was that it was too small for cutting 24" oak not that it wasn't a great saw. One of the best for smaller stuff.
 
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026s were one of the all time best saws Stihl made. Arguments here was that it was too small for cutting 24" oak not that it wasn't a great saw. One of the best for smaller stuff.
'sactly.

Because I'm a nerd that likes to research stuff, and try things, I spent a year or three arriving at my current saw plan:

1. Small top-handle with 12" bar (30'ish cc)
2. Mid-size with 18" - 20" bar (60'ish cc)
3. Biggun' with 28" bar (90'ish cc)

I thought I'd use the mi-size the most, but it's actually the one I use least. I grab the little top handle saw for limbing and marking, and the biggun for almost everything else. The mid-size saw is just like a smaller, slower, more frustrating backup to the big one.

If I were buying brandy-new saws, and wanted to just carry two:

1. Small top-handle with 12" - 14" bar (30-36 cc)
2. Stihl 44x series with 24" bar (75cc)

Since I was buying used (read... cheap), and never have to carry my saws far from the tractor or trailer, I prefer the 3-saw plan. It gives me a backup, if one of the larger saws has a failure, or gets stuck.

Here, we see a lot of folks who own a 40cc saw, and come here asking about adding a 50cc. Or they have a 50cc, and ask about adding a 60cc. This just makes zero sense, if adding to (not replacing) an existing saw. Your saws should not be similar in size, unless the reason is purely backup. Space them out a good 50% in their displacement, to give yourself a range of capability, suit the tool to the job... yadda, yadda...
 
I know exactly what your saying. Finding the used 029 or 026 for around $250 will be a better saw all day long than a new MS271 or smaller. The way I explain it for firewood cutters is spending the money for a 241c or 261 is buying a saw like dad or grandpa had. Quality built. My dad still brings out the Homelight XL when he comes out with me. That heavy bastard give me flash backs of my childhood when I pick it up. I will guarantee that a brand new ms250 will wear out before that 30+ y/o saw will die. I am 41 and I have know nothing other than wood heat my entire life. I have spent the money over the years getting saws I want to make my life easier. The only one bought new was the 362cm last year and I love it. It will be my sons saw in 25 years when I’m too old to do this chit. Husky and Stihl both make a great product but, only in the pro line. They are built like those 30 year old saws still running. I wore out a ms250 in two years. The cost to rebuild was 70% of new. Last homeowner saw I will ever buy.

For the OP I just gave my .02 if he wants to cut efficiently with a 24” bar I would go no less than the 362 but recommend the 461. Those will still be running in 15-20 years with proper maintenance working them that hard. Would probably be the last saw he ever bought.

Just for info the 029 isn't a pro saw.It is a clam shell saw. Along with it's brothers 027 039 025 021 017.For a while Stihl pro saws had a white rear handle.
Rule of thumb Clamshell saws are the homeowner saws.Cheaper to build ,harder to fix.
 
Only works if you don’t know any better. Good used pro saws (certain ones) are cheaper and better in every way. Not all pro saws are the same. 026,036,044,046,064, 066 are classics. Oh ya the 020 200 is maybe the coolest saw Stihl made even though its not a pro saw.
Actually the 020 and 200 are pro saws,you can pull the cylinder without messing with the crank. Clamshell saws are the homeowner saws like the 193,clamshell and will never pull any coin like the 020/200 pro saws.
 
You make it sound like all 064 saws are ticking time bombs destined to be paperweights and I happened to find the dumbest pro cutter in the world who wanted my paperweight. Lots of desire for the 064 around my parts. They bring close to the same money as a 660 in my area. Any saw that lasts 34 years cant be all bad.
There are other coils from other Stihls that work on the 064 right now i have 4 they all have spark.One is a play saw that has a ported 066 jug on it.The biggest appeal of the 064 is that it weighs less than the 066,it's like an 046 with the power of an 066
 
The biggest appeal of the 064 is that it weighs less than the 066,it's like an 046 with the power of an 066

That’s exactly why I bought one. But 66x owners disagree, maybe to avoid remorse.
 
You can’t beat the 660, but you also can’t buy one at the OP’s price point. Even its predecessor, the old 064’s and 066’s bring $500 in good condition, and they’re 25+ years old.

I’ve been thinking about trading my venerable old 064 in on a 660, recently.
You will not be disappointed...
 
You missed the Pro part. Smallest pro saw
Those are Pro saws .On both models you can remove the cylinder without splitting the crank out.
Clamshell saws are homeowner saws.
Saws with a crankcase are Pro saws.
 
'sactly.

Because I'm a nerd that likes to research stuff, and try things, I spent a year or three arriving at my current saw plan:

1. Small top-handle with 12" bar (30'ish cc)
2. Mid-size with 18" - 20" bar (60'ish cc)
3. Biggun' with 28" bar (90'ish cc)

I thought I'd use the mi-size the most, but it's actually the one I use least. I grab the little top handle saw for limbing and marking, and the biggun for almost everything else. The mid-size saw is just like a smaller, slower, more frustrating backup to the big one.

If I were buying brandy-new saws, and wanted to just carry two:

1. Small top-handle with 12" - 14" bar (30-36 cc)
2. Stihl 44x series with 24" bar (75cc)

Since I was buying used (read... cheap), and never have to carry my saws far from the tractor or trailer, I prefer the 3-saw plan. It gives me a backup, if one of the larger saws has a failure, or gets stuck.

Here, we see a lot of folks who own a 40cc saw, and come here asking about adding a 50cc. Or they have a 50cc, and ask about adding a 60cc. This just makes zero sense, if adding to (not replacing) an existing saw. Your saws should not be similar in size, unless the reason is purely backup. Space them out a good 50% in their displacement, to give yourself a range of capability, suit the tool to the job... yadda, yadda...

So yesterday I dropped a bunch of dead ash. Took three saws with me. 362, 461, and t545. Dropped all the trees 18”-20” with the 362. I grabbed the top handle saw to start limbing.

Cuts way to slow with a new chain. Tossed it in the back of the truck and did everything with the 362. I’m too impatient for how slow a picco chain cuts vs full chisel 3/8 anymore.

Once you find what you like it’s hard to do anything different. And, I added a 441 to the list yesterday for $350, in great shape and ready to run.
 
Those are Pro saws .On both models you can remove the cylinder without splitting the crank out.
Clamshell saws are homeowner saws.
Saws with a crankcase are Pro saws.

I know they are not clamshells but Stihl puts them in the homeowner class in their advertising. At least thats what the did for the 200 so I assumed the rest were rated that way also. Figured there was a reason why they didn't rate them as pro saws.
 
...,I grabbed the top handle saw to start limbing. Cuts way to slow with a new chain. Tossed it in the back of the truck and did everything with the 362. I’m too impatient for how slow a picco chain cuts vs full chisel 3/8 anymore.
That’s funny, as this is the reason I rarely use my 036 (eff. 362). It just cuts way too slow, when there’s an 064 sitting right next to it on the tailgate.

I run a 20” bar on the 036, and it does okay until you bury the nose in hardwood, then its noticeably under-powered with a full chisel chain. I put big felling dogs on it, just to shorten the exposed bar area another inch, and that helped a little. If I were buying bar and chains all over again, I’d go 18” on that saw.
 
For the +/- 10 cords we cut each year a single pro saw plan works. I go through a bar and maybe 2-3 chains each year on the wondrous MS261 with a now downsized 16" bar from 20" .Why ? Dirt, rounds, barbed wire, dead mammals in the trunks. It has done up to a 36" DBH oak a few times without timely delays. An older 028 and loaned 440 are too much to handle for heavy cutting. BTW: a pro Stihl 009 does the tree climbing, long trail walk ins, and blowdown limbing. It has gotten me out of user jams with the 261 ( truth sets you free ).
It's beyond me other than the testosterone demand why any non pro cutting less than a few cords each year even thinks a 440, 660, 880 will speed anything up. But your choice. Hubris.
Never will use a chisel tooth chain again. Dulls quickly. Harder to sharpen correctly, chatters. Gave me hemhoroids (sp. ) ;em
 
Are dead mammals especially hard on the chains?
 
Just get a 372xp and be done with it.
Can't imagine owning three chainsaws. Seems like a lot of work. What homeowner or non pro owns three different lawnmowers? One saw,one bar, one chain. I don't have all day to plan out what saw I am going to use for what cut.
Besides, who in their right mind would own a Stihl anyway.:p
 
Just get a 372xp and be done with it.
Can't imagine owning three chainsaws. Seems like a lot of work. What homeowner or non pro owns three different lawnmowers? One saw,one bar, one chain. I don't have all day to plan out what saw I am going to use for what cut.
Besides, who in their right mind would own a Stihl anyway.:p
I own 3 but really only use the stihl. But i always take a spare with.
 
Oh and anyone who goes through 2 to 3 chains and a bar a year as a non pro needs to go back to their paul bunyan university. Because they have allot to learn.
 
Seems to be a lot of testosterone flying around when it comes to splitters..........
Lot of folks split by hand, not too many felling trees or cutting logs to 18" length with an ax.
 
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Seems to be a lot of testosterone flying around when it comes to splitters..........
Lot of folks split by hand, not too many felling trees or cutting logs to 18" length with an ax.
You got it backwards. Splitting axes are for those with too much testosterone, splitters are for the rest of us.
 
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Are dead mammals especially hard on the chains?

Dear Doggy:
Some live IN trees.
Bones. Bones. :p
Then again with those 7 ( seven ! ) saws you have my permission to ignore dead bodies in trees.!!!
 
No manual splitting here!!
IMG_0108.JPG
 
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