So I started my first fire in my new stove tonight and wasen't very impressed. When I started the fire the draft control was all the way open and the door was cracked like the manual said and it took quite a while for the fire to get going. Once it was going I don't feel like it was burning near as hot as it should've been, and when I closed the door and shutdown the draft control it all but killed my fire. When I opened the door to reload after I turned up the draft it took off again and got a good puff of smoke in the house. I think my chimney is too short. I have a ws-22 Heatilator with double wall chimney pipe and double wall adjustable black pipe installed by my dealer straight thru the ceiling and roof. I would say it's about 10 feet from the top of the stove to the top of the chimney. Can anyone tell me how long of a chimney this stove needs to draft properly?
new stove fail
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Your installation manual is here: (broken link removed to http://www.hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/7057_128.PDF)
I could not find a minimum chimney height requirement, but your 10 feet is really short. It's also been warm in most parts, which hurts anybody's draft - your poor draft is typical for warm weather.
I could not find a minimum chimney height requirement, but your 10 feet is really short. It's also been warm in most parts, which hurts anybody's draft - your poor draft is typical for warm weather.
How quickly did you try to start shutting down the draft control? You need to let the stove come up to operating temps, then begin shutting the air down in a couple steps. Usually takes 5 to 10 minutes between steps on mine or it will snuff it out too. Usually your manual will describe how to do it for your particular stove.
And since that is your first burn: Sometimes the firebricks contain some moisture that needs to be driven out first which can make for sluggish first fire. However, I am almost sure you will need more than 10' of pipe.
My wood has been cut split and stacked since later winter early spring of this year. It seems to be dry ends are split and checked and it's turned gray, doesn't seem to be boiling water out the ends when it burns. The salesman at my dealer told me when he reloads his stove he runs it wide open for a few minutes to clear his chimney of any possible creosote build up overnight and that it really gets roaring almost souds like a freight train in his stove pipe and I can't get that. As soon as I close my door my fire dies way down with the air control on high. I did reload before bed and woke up this morning about 8-9 hrs later with some good coals and two partial chared pieces on the sides. This is the first wood stove I've had since I was a kid, I might be doing this wrong but it just seems like I don't have enough draft to me. Was mid 40's when I built the fire last night and is high 30's this morning.
Sounds like wet wood+poor draft.
Unless it was standing dead, wood split this spring doesn't have much chance of being ready to burn.
Is it feasible to add 4-5' to your chimney? You will likely need a roof brace.
I love it when salesmen say stupid stuff like that.
Unless it was standing dead, wood split this spring doesn't have much chance of being ready to burn.
Is it feasible to add 4-5' to your chimney? You will likely need a roof brace.
I love it when salesmen say stupid stuff like that.
The outdoor temp will make a big difference with a marginal stack. If the modular is fairly new it also may be too tight. I have seen some newer units that have a vent fan installed to keep the air changes high enough. Most owners disconnect them and that impacts the draft.
Definitely find a source of good dry wood and see how it runs.
The only good news is as the weather gets colder the stack may be a bit more effective.
Definitely find a source of good dry wood and see how it runs.
The only good news is as the weather gets colder the stack may be a bit more effective.
Yes can add more to my chimney, the way it is now the chimney doesn't go above the peak of the roof. My house faces the south, my roof runs east and west and the chimney is on the north side of my roof, prevailing winds in my area are from the south southwest, but at my house the topography of the land tends to make the wind swirle and change directions.
The house is about ten years old, when they installed the stove they put an outside air kit in, had to it's code in my area
I have a modular house as well, i have to open up my basement door when i start my stove because my house is so air tight it does not want to start the draft. Also, if i light my stove to heat my house by itself, it takes a good 2 hours before i start to get comfy from the heat. But once it's rolling, it's just a matter of throwing 2-3 peices in one in awhile and trying to keep the temp steady. Hope this helps. On another note, your chimney top should be above your roof peak or taller than anything around it within 10-15 feet. That will help your draft incredibly.
Pick up cheap moisture meter and split a few pieces of your wood again and take a reading on the freshly cut face, that will tell you what your dealing with. In any case, adding a few feet to your chimney will be beneficial to your draft and certainly help you burn unseasoned wood better.
It's my first burning season, so my experience doesn't match the old salts here. My thoughts, if you want them anyway:
To help rule out your wood being an issue, can you pickup a package of firewood from a store in your area? Usually that stuff is kiln dried and ready to blaze.
Re-read your manual, can't hurt.
I'd leave the door open a crack until the fire was really going well, but never leave the stove with the door unsecured (if you get distracted and forget about it, it can lead to over firing and damage...).
If you have a load of kiln dried wood going very well and can't get it to burn well when you close the door, and outside temps are in/near the 30s, then I'd suspect the chimney being too short. Maybe you can add a temporary extension to test that?
To test for the house being too tight, which could be fixed with an outside air kit, open a nearby window an inch or two.
Good luck!
To help rule out your wood being an issue, can you pickup a package of firewood from a store in your area? Usually that stuff is kiln dried and ready to blaze.
Re-read your manual, can't hurt.
I'd leave the door open a crack until the fire was really going well, but never leave the stove with the door unsecured (if you get distracted and forget about it, it can lead to over firing and damage...).
If you have a load of kiln dried wood going very well and can't get it to burn well when you close the door, and outside temps are in/near the 30s, then I'd suspect the chimney being too short. Maybe you can add a temporary extension to test that?
To test for the house being too tight, which could be fixed with an outside air kit, open a nearby window an inch or two.
Good luck!
Your stove manual has a more extensive "do and don't" list for chimney location requirements than I am used to seeing, makes me wonder if the stove's draft is very sensitive. They even put minimum draft requirements
B. Draft
Draft is the pressure difference needed to vent appliances successfully. When a appliance is drafting successfully, all combustion byproducts are exiting the home through the chimney.
Considerations for successful draft include:
- - -
Recessed lighting Attic hatch Duct leaks
•
•
Preventing negative pressure Location of appliance and chimney
To minimize the effects of negative air pressure:
• Install the outside air kit with the intake facing prevailing winds during the heating season
• Ensure adequate outdoor air for all combustion appliances and exhaust equipment
• Ensure furnace and air conditioning return vents are not located in the immediate vicinity of the fireplace
• Avoid installing the fireplace near doors, walkways or small isolated spaces
• Recessed lighting should be a “sealed can” design • Attic hatches weather stripped or sealed • Attic mounted duct work and air handler joints and seams
taped or sealed • Basement installations should be avoided
To be sure that your appliance burns properly:
• During a low burn, the chimney draft (static pressure) should
be approximately -.04 inch water column (W.C.)
• During a high burn the chimney draft should be approximately -.10 inch (W.C.)
• Measure the W.C at 6 inches (152mm) above the top of the appliance after one hour of operation at each burn setting.
NOTICE: Hearth & Home Technologies assumes no responsibility for the improper performance of the appliance system caused by:
• Inadequate draft due to environmental conditions • Downdrafts • Tight sealing construction of the structure • Mechanical exhausting devices
B. Draft
Draft is the pressure difference needed to vent appliances successfully. When a appliance is drafting successfully, all combustion byproducts are exiting the home through the chimney.
Considerations for successful draft include:
- - -
Recessed lighting Attic hatch Duct leaks
•
•
Preventing negative pressure Location of appliance and chimney
To minimize the effects of negative air pressure:
• Install the outside air kit with the intake facing prevailing winds during the heating season
• Ensure adequate outdoor air for all combustion appliances and exhaust equipment
• Ensure furnace and air conditioning return vents are not located in the immediate vicinity of the fireplace
• Avoid installing the fireplace near doors, walkways or small isolated spaces
• Recessed lighting should be a “sealed can” design • Attic hatches weather stripped or sealed • Attic mounted duct work and air handler joints and seams
taped or sealed • Basement installations should be avoided
To be sure that your appliance burns properly:
• During a low burn, the chimney draft (static pressure) should
be approximately -.04 inch water column (W.C.)
• During a high burn the chimney draft should be approximately -.10 inch (W.C.)
• Measure the W.C at 6 inches (152mm) above the top of the appliance after one hour of operation at each burn setting.
NOTICE: Hearth & Home Technologies assumes no responsibility for the improper performance of the appliance system caused by:
• Inadequate draft due to environmental conditions • Downdrafts • Tight sealing construction of the structure • Mechanical exhausting devices
Yea, after about a month of being frustrated i got mine out and read all the trouble shooting stuff and that helped the most. I have an Englander 2200 from home depot. I found out the new stoves with the emissions are alot more sensitive to issues like moister in the wood, air intake in the stove, and draft.
The OP's stove manual even had a special disclaimer for improper draft - almost like they had a bunch of complaints and found the need to put in the disclaimer. In any case, 10 feet is way too short for almost any stove.
Exactly right. That is why I have Dad's quote in my signature. Add at least 3 ft to the chimney.
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Besides a taller chimney, I would want the top of the chimney to be above the roof peak by at least three feet or so. And, it can take a while to learn the personality of a new stove. You will need to experiment with how you load the stove, so forth, and eventually become adept at running it. But yours should be working better than you describe. First thing, extend the chimney. It will help, regardless.
Welcome to the forums, Brandon !
Sounds like a draft/ chimney issue, as well as less than primo fire wood.
You've got 2 month's more of seasoning (roughly) before it slows down. Keep that in mind with your moisture readings.
Sounds like a draft/ chimney issue, as well as less than primo fire wood.
You've got 2 month's more of seasoning (roughly) before it slows down. Keep that in mind with your moisture readings.
First fires without an established coal bed ain't all that great anyway. Add to that the fact that the weather is just "cool" and that may be your only problem. You should get to know your stove in a 24 hour burn situation before you try to assess the problem
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