New Wood Stove Insert Install cw2900

[TnVolFan]

Hi, I'm absolutely new to wood burning. I've been reading threads on this site for almost a year. Gathering as much info as possible to help me make a decision on which direction to go. But to offset my extremely high propane bills to heat my house, I've decided to install a wood burning insert in my masonry fireplace. The wife has said no to a free standing wood stove out in front of the fireplace. I used this fireplace last year and burned wood, obviously it did very little to actually heat the house (although it was nice to watch a burning fire in the fireplace). After reading online and visiting a local fireplace shop. I decide to buy the SBI Century cw2900. For the money, it's a tuff one to beat. It's on back order everywhere, but I managed to pick one up at a Menard's last week. After reading several articles on insulating the firebox (it's an exterior fireplace), I decided to go that direction too. Durock cement board with Roxul insulation behind that. I have a pretty good size fire box, so I can insulate back, sides, bottom and top. Trying to get as much out of this insert as possible. My house is 3000+ sq ft. I know this wood insert is only rated for 2000 sq ft or so, but if it will heat the great room (vaulted), kitchen and dining room I'll be tickled. Going to cut out the damper to fit the liner, instead of ovalizing the liner, and thinking I will go with a pre-insulated one.

So I guess my first question is this, here is the liner I'm wanting to install. http://www.firesidechimneysupply.co...-316ti-stainless-steel-chimney-liner-458.html Has anyone had any experience with this company or this liner? Is it better to buy the liner and install the insulation myself? I do like the idea of it already being insulated.

Think I'll try to post some pics of the install as I go

Thanks so much

 

[begreen]

Preinsulated liner is nice. It will be stiffer than a basic liner but that may not be a big deal if the chimney throat has lots of wiggle room.

 

[TnVolFan]

I should have plenty of room after cutting out he damper. Should give me 7 - 7.5 inches of clearance for the liner.
hopefully with out having to take out any bricks. Appears to be enough room for the liner. Should have all the insulation installed in the firebox by 2moro evening, then i'll be waiting n the liner and I'll try to post some pics as i go. Should I paint the ends of the roxul to keep it from sending fibers around the room when the fan is blowing


Thanks

 

[TnVolFan]

I've been working on this for the last few weeks, waiting on my liner to arrive. It did come in last week. This is the progress I've made on it so far. Firebox insulated with Durock on the outside and Roxul insulation behind that on the back, sides, top and a piece of Durock on the bottom to cover up the ash catch door in the masonry firebox. I've also painted the durock and the visible Roxul insulation. Here are some pics.

 

[TnVolFan]

2moro i will look everything over real good and be sure i feel that i have all parts that i need. One of my biggest concerns is that my chimney liner may not be lining up with my wood stove insert output as well as I'd like it to. I don't want to use the Century offset adapter, so if i can't bend my pre-insulated liner into the position i need it to be in, I'm leaning towards buying some kind of 45 degree offset appliance adapter. Anyone know where I might find such and item? Is it a common piece used?

 

[bholler]

every insert install we do we always have a 15 and a 30 degree fixed stainless elbow there in-case we need it and i would say more often than not we do. I would just get some there before you start

 

[Timberwolf530]

I bought my SS liner from them. I bought the liner & insulation, but I had to attach the insulation myself. It was easy. Spray glue and metal tape was all it took. You can bend the liner easily to 45 degrees. I built a box on my stove (it had a square hole in the top., so I had to) with a 45 on it, and it hooked right up. If yours is on the top, I would definitely get a 45.

 

[TnVolFan]

Found a local place with the black pipe. It's an adjustable elbow. Think it adjusts from 30 to 90. Will that work since it's inside the masonry fireplace or does in need to be stainless steel?
Found one I need online (from the place I got the liner from) and I can order it if needed, just trying to go ahead with the installation instead of waiting another week

Thanks

 

[bholler]

Found a local place with the black pipe. It's an adjustable elbow. Think it adjusts from 30 to 90. Will that work since it's inside the masonry fireplace or does in need to be stainless steel?

no it needs to be ss and dont get an adjustable one they are no where near as good

 

[TnVolFan]

Ok I got the stainless steel fixed 30 degree elbow stove adapter (thanks bholler). I do have a question about the silicones to seal the chimney liner to elbow and elbow to the insert. The 2 choices I have here is Meeco Mfg black Furnace Cement and Fireplace Mortar like THIS or Meeco Mfg
MEECO'S RED DEVIL 613 Silicone Sealant, Red like THIS. The furnace cement says up to 2000 degrees and the red sealant says 550-600 degrees. It seems to me that the stove adapter would get hotter than 550-600 at the stove connection and at the adapter to liner connection. But everything I've read says the Red stuff is good to go, but I do like to "overkill a project" so the 2000 degree furnace cement is very appealing. So does anyone have any suggestions on which one would be better?

 

[Woody Stover]

If the fit seems reasonably tight, I don't bother sealing the joints. Any slight gap, the draft will pull air in, smoke doesn't come out. It won't hurt to seal, but that silicone will definitely burn up and crumble out. They make some higher-temp silicones, like 1100, but it's harder to find. You can always use the furnace cement, but it usually cracks and falls out in a couple of places from expansion and contraction. I wouldn't mess with it unless I had a short chimney and wanted to maximize draft, however small the gain.

 

[PWash]

I didn't use any sealant on my insert either, the SS liner fit snug and I used 3 SS screws (had to buy a few ~1" screws that were longer than the 1/2" included ones) to secure it. Even though I bought a tube of furnace cement, I read that it dries into a hard mortar-like substance, and just left it out: I thought if I needed to pull the stove in the future, it might make it harder to disassemble with the extra gunk stuffed in there.

 

[TnVolFan]

Thanks for the responses, the chimney is 20+ feet high, and I can't find any 900 degree+ silicone anywhere locally, and my window for installing the insert was small, so I went ahead and used the furnace cement and got the install done. The fit was reasonably snug, and I did use screws to hold the adapter in place. But being a novice at this, I didn't want to take any chances. I'll order the super high temp stuff online and put it on after the season. Although I hate the idea of having to pull the insert out. Would be really easy to reach up through the insert door to the adapter elbow and I wouldn't have to pull the insert out or have to worry about getting the furnace cement off (now that I already used it). Maybe I can just apply it on the inside joints of the adapter? Not sure even 1100 degree stuff would hold up to that.

Really appreciate everyone's input