New Yukon-Eagle Husky Wood/coal/propane furnace on the way.....

[Motor7]

My old Hearthstone H1 can heat my house with no problems. However, with wood as a sole source of heat, leaving for any length of time during sub zero weather can be a huge issue. Besides, I really don't trust my wife to feed it when I am not home...her nickname is "Sidetrack Sally".

So I ordered a Husky with these options:

Plenum
fresh air intake vent for the basement wall
Hot Rod water heater
extra set of wood furnace grates
upgraded the blower from 1/3 hp to 1/2

Yukon said it will be here sometime next week....will post pic's of the install along with the ducting to my floor vents.

 

[brenndatomu]

Wow, I'm surprised they can get one out to you that quick, I would think they'd be backed up past the new year.
I bought my Yukon used and it came with the gas burner. I removed the gas burner and installed a fairly new Beckett oil burner that I kept from my old coal-converted-to-oil furnace. Oh, and my Yukon had the optional coal grates in it too. So I think I should be able to stay warm because I can burn wood, coal, oil, or with a simple burner change, NG. Aaand, with the gas burner installed, a further the flip of a switch allows propane!

Do you have easy install access? (walkout basement or?) I have a basement garage but due to a narrow door way to the "furnace room" I hauled it in piece by piece, firebox being the biggest single piece. Did it by myself and it was pretty easy to take apart and reassemble. Good thing about doing this was getting to know this 900 lb.monster inside and out.
Definitely get us some install pics! Doesn't seem to be too many Husky owners on these wood burner forums. That may be due to this unit appealing more to the set-it-and-forget-it crowd...

 

[artmos]

Have a Husky wood oil furnace here in N.ky .Am in the process of having it gone over for increased efficiency. enlarging one main duct. Adding a new duct in the great room .Put a new high-capacity blower in it.Just with the new blower we notice a huge increase in heat delivered. The old belt drive unit just wouldn't cut it anymore.Overall a good unit. Ours is about 32 years old and still burnin the wood! Haven't used any oil to fire it in years.Just break a compressed wood/wax fire starter in half and put it between the logs and in 15 minutes we have a roaring fire in the box. cost about 0-50 bux a year instead of 3.50 a gallon for oil. A real no-brainer! Good luck with your new Husky! I think you will love it! Yukon makes a solid product. Art

 

[Motor7]

Well, it arrived yesterday. I could have had it long before Thanksgiving except for Yukon's outsourced Finance Company....I give them two thumbs down. They offer a zero percent for 6 months...great, I'll take it,......... immediately approved. A day to three go by before they send me the paperwork that requires signatures...I'm ok with this even though they don't require them to be notarized(Mickey Mouse could have signed them). They email me forms that I later found out had to be re-sized to print correctly, so I was missing part of the document. But they wanted them mailed back..."what the ....". Then, I had typed in our names on the line that says, "Print Here"...you know the ones below where you actually sign? So I mail them back signed and they reject them, wanted me to actually print my name in that line and not type.....good grief!

By this time 10 days had gone by so after some very interesting conversation with the finance person I canceled their deal. Called Yukon and just put the darn thing on my credit card(which I should have done in the first place). Anyway it's here and I brought into my basement with my tractor & forks:

I'm reading the installation manual now. I need to drop another 120v circuit, and just realized I need another Duravent DVL "T" for the barometric draft control. I'll start taking pic's as I put this beast together.

Bren, yes walkout with a 9' wide garage door right next to my wood burner. Current set up looks like this:

Art...32 years?? WOW!

 

[newyorker]

nice looking furnace

 

[Motor7]

Getting it off the pallet by myself was interesting...the thing weighs 800 lbs. I ended up using a Dolly to lift one end, shove a 1" x3' section of pvc pipe under, repeat at other end, then I just rolled it off onto two small furniture dolly's. Now I can maneuver it around with ease.

I got most of the bit's and pieces on it:

Firebox is impressive, all SS with SS re-burn tubes on three sides:

Ash bin(really looking forward to using this)

Propane burner installed:

 

[Motor7]

Secondary air intake for wood burning:

Massive SS firebox view from the top:

And this is where it's going:

 

[Motor7]

Question:

Should I set this right on the floor, or raise it up, say on some 2x3 steel square tube? or even better, build a frame/stand for it?

 

[laynes69]

When did they start making fireboxes from stainless? I think that's for the tubes and heat exchanger only.

 

[Jags]

Question:

Should I set this right on the floor, or raise it up, say on some 2x3 steel square tube? or even better, build a frame/stand for it?

I would think a couple inches of elevation would be a good thing. Don't even give condensation a chance.

 

[Motor7]

When did they start making fireboxes from stainless? I think that's for the tubes and heat exchanger only.

Hmmm, I'll have to stick my head back in there...I could be wrong.

I would think a couple inches of elevation would be a good thing. Don't even give condensation a chance.

At 6'4 the only thing I don't like about it is how low the firebox is, so raising it would have a few benefits, condensation is one of them for sure.

 

[Motor7]

Also, does anyone here know much about Tempering Tanks? I ordered the Hot Rod water heater option, and looking at the instructions it recommends a Temper tank, then on to the Hot Water Tank. I don't have a hot water tank, I am tankless propane, so I need to figure out if I can go straight from a Temper tank to the Tankless, or if I also have to install a hot water heater or maybe just a insulated storage tank.

 

[brenndatomu]

Question:
Should I set this right on the floor, or raise it up, say on some 2x3 steel square tube? or even better, build a frame/stand for it?

I set mine on (6) 1" thick solid steel blocks, (4) under the firebox area and (2) under the far end. I would have used six regular bricks but I needed all the room I could get above the furnace.

When did they start making fireboxes from stainless? I think that's for the tubes and heat exchanger only.

You are correct, steel firebox with SS tubes and heat exchanger. The brick holders may be SS too...

Also, does anyone here know much about Tempering Tanks? I ordered the Hot Rod water heater option, and looking at the instructions it recommends a Temper tank, then on to the Hot Water Tank. I don't have a hot water tank, I am tankless propane, so I need to figure out if I can go straight from a Temper tank to the Tankless, or if I also have to install a hot water heater or maybe just a insulated storage tank.

I'd start a separate thread on this. If you can get the attention of the boiler guys they will fix ya right up.

 

[Motor7]

Good idea on the new thread on the water.

Bren, how do you get the door open to clean the burner tubes?...Just remove the flue pipe? I am thinking of a steel cart with casters under the furnace, then I could just disconnect and roll it back a couple of feet as long as I left enough play in the flex gas & electric lines.

 

[brenndatomu]

Good idea on the new thread on the water.

Bren, how do you get the door open to clean the burner tubes?...Just remove the flue pipe? I am thinking of a steel cart with casters under the furnace, then I could just disconnect and roll it back a couple of feet as long as I left enough play in the flex gas & electric lines.

You mean to clean the heat exchanger? Move the furnace...what about the duct work? Looks like you are going straight up with the flue pipe? Does it 90 at the top? On mine I have a tee on the furnace (easy to take the cap off the tee to look in with a light and mirror, see if you need to clean or not) then my pipe goes up at about a 30* angle back toward the wall where there is a adjustable 90* (reconfigured to be a 30*) where it ties into the chimney. I can pull the tee off at the furnace and rotate the pipe out enough to open the door because the adjustable "90" back at the wall allows it to rotate. I hang the pipe from a piece of wire while cleaning.
Can you use a piece of telescoping pipe?
Even with regular stove pipe, most of the time you can get enough free play in the pipe connections to wiggle things apart if you remove the (3) screws at each connection, no moving anything then.
A couple tips for you.
1. Use SS pipe if you can for the flue, or at the very least the tee at the furnace. My steel tee rotted out after 3 years, it has a SS one on it now. I found a lil amish shop locally that makes SS stove pipe parts for about 10-20% more than what regular steel stuff costs in the stores!
2. Put a key damper between the tee for the baro, and the wall/ceiling, (or in other words, downstream from the baro) When it is cold and windy out, if you have a decent chimney, the baro will be wide open and the draft is still too high! With a key damper in there you can throttle the chimney off a bit and keep that baro from dumping so much cool air in there. NOW, attention here... when I have that key damper throttled, the oil burner thermostat is turned OFF! If the burner kicked on and the key damper was closed it could dump fumes out of the baro into the house! (I only use the oil burner when we are gone for a couple days)

 

[Motor7]

The section of pipe above the Hearthstone is a 48" telescoping section. Yes, going straight out of the Furnace right into a Baro "T", then right into the existing "T" you see above the stove

Crap...I already ordered a Duravent dbl wall Black T....oh well. I think I have a 8" key damper laying around somewhere and I do have a real strong draft now...mine is 26' straight up with no turns.

 

[Motor7]

Like this:

 

[brenndatomu]

Yeah, you could put it like that. If you have enough room to squeeze between the wall and the pipe I'd put the side connection of the tee straight up onto the pipe and the cap on the end of the tee toward the wall. By doing that you could run the brush through the middle two heat exchanger tunnels, maybe all of them, without taking anything besides the tee cap off. I would have done mine like this except for where my chimney connection was I had to put the side tee connection on the furnace to keep things lined up as best possible. So now I have to use a mirror and light to look at things instead of being able to look straight into the HE.
Just tryin to give you some things to consider, maybe you can bypass some of the "oh, DUH!" moments that I had along the way.

EDIT: I think after rereading what you wrote that you were planning a baro in that tee on the furnace? Look in the Yukon manual, I think that is maybe one of the no-no spots to put it?

 

[Motor7]

Ok, yes I see what you are saying on the T. According to the manual that location is correct...unless I am reading it wrong. It is kind of confusing, they show a picture on one page exactly how I have it drawn in red. Then on the next page it says you need 1"" rise per foot minimum from furnace to Flue. Even at that, with the draft I have, I don't think being 18-20" away in a straight line will make any difference in draft over a stupid elbow that is a restriction point.

 

[brenndatomu]

OK, yeah, your are right. I had to look it up again, I guess I was thinking of when the BD is on the end of the tee at the furnace, that is a no-no. You will have no draft issues at all, that chimney should suck like Hoover!

 

[Motor7]

Ok, thanks...the only issue I might have with turning the "T" your way would be when I am cleaning the flue with my Sooteater...kinda make a hard turn there at the get go.

 

[Motor7]

another thing, I am having a hard time figuring out the wiring...the instructions are really lacking or my pea brain is really overloaded......

 

[brenndatomu]

I am having a hard time figuring out the wiring..

What part?

 

[JustWood]

At 6'4 the only thing I don't like about it is how low the firebox is, so raising it would have a few benefits, condensation is one of them for sure.

I'm 6'5"
I raised my Woodchuck 526furnace up 10".
Sure made loading and raking the coals easier

 

[Motor7]

Sorry it has been so long, but we drove to MB Canada for Christmas and my heat & air guy was unable to get my duct work done before we left. Anyway, he was here today and ....ta da...I have it up and running. Trying to get rid of that "new car smell" and it's associated smoke. It's been 3 hours and it is finally dissipating somewhat. Set off all the smoke alarms after the first fire.

None of my H&A guys have ever seen a Yukon. All of us were heavily discussing the barometric damper.....it's kinda un-nerving seeing the inside of your 8" flue while the system is running and not getting smoke pouring out of it. I have it set at .2, and the flue temp was reading 180 on the vertical pipe above the T and this is what it looked like:

So, I hope another Yukon owner will chime in and tell me if I am running it correctly. I do not have a manometer, so setting the damper is just guesswork. Also, it is apparent that my old flue temps on my stove will have nothing in common with the flue temps on the furnace? I am getting really good heat out of all my registers, so it is at least doing it's job. I am just not sure how to optimally adjust my intake and damper. Zero smoke is coming out of the chimney.

Here are some more pic's of the install and duct work: