Next chain saw?

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Fredman said:
My old man used a grinding wheel saw sharpener to sharpen the neighbors and his chains, but I wouldn't let him touch mine. If you want to use a dremel, go right a head. The problem with that is that you are heating up the chain and you are taking the temper out of it. You will have to sharpen it more often than if you would do it by hand. A dull knife will do more injuries and that goes along with a dull saw too.

Nope, don't heat nothing. 2 or3 steady quick passes and done. It ain't on there long enough to hit nothing.
I am guessing you are either guessing and assuming it heats & take the temper out, or made the mistake personally.
I haven't had that problem, and it last damn near as long as a new chain.
There is more than one way for things to be done. Just because folks find a faster, easier way, doesn't make it a worse way.
Have a nice day.
 
Jerry_NJ said:
I agree with johnsopi, why does a home owner/user need to have a dealer so close by? From what I read on this thread many may not be in the tree trimming business, but their saw has no way of knowing that. For that crowd, the professional saw, and I suppose given the investment, a deal/shop near by (especially with the price of gas, don't want to drive an unnecessary miles) may be a good idea.

I hear this dealer comment on lots of forums, especially on the yard/garden forums, tractors, lawn mowers, tillers, that sort of stuff. I've had tons of those tools, and a few chain saws too, and I've never wanted to take one (not once) back to a "dealer" or to another repair shop.

I guess my question is why would you NOT want a dealer around to stand behind the product, assist you when you need it, service it if you want them to, sharpen your chains if you do not do it yourself, purchase your oil and misc stuff from???? I do not see it as a need but why would you not want it? Should everyone buy them from a big box and then ship them to get repaired or serviced?? That makes no sense. There are many folks who do not/cannot service their own equipment.
 
Jerry_NJ said:
The point? Good thing you have a dealer near by. Most of us sharpen our chains ourselves, and in less time than it takes to get in the car, never mind driving somewhere...that's the point I got, could just be me. Then too my chains could be sharper and better balanced, I'm sure, but I'll DIY anyway.

Some of us are busy enough where they cannot do everything. What do I do - I purchase a few chains for each saw (4 for each currently) and then when 2 or 3 are dull, I drop them off when running errands. My local shop is one 3 miles away, so it easy.

1 - They appreciate the business and adds to the work pile when they are slow
2 - Keeps my face in there so that I am a customer and not just a once through. I have got some good deals on used equipment because they know me or like me or something - but showing my face as a customer counts to that.
3 - The cost is minimal and I have enough to do than try and find time to sharpen chains. Something has to be farmed out at home b/c i cannot do it all by myself. Id rather do my brakes on my car and not pay someone to do it as opposed to paying someone while I sit home sharpening chains...
 
It takes me maybe 10-15 mins to sharpen a chain from dull. Probably take me at least 5 to change a chain anyway. Honestly- I have a tendency to overwork myself, so sharpening is a built-in break. I have to remember to get a glass of water every tank of gas in the summer as well.

Plus- I'm really bad about remembering errands or being around when places are open.
 
I think there are two different topics being intertwined & argued here:

-Sharpening a rocked chain, or one that has cut over a pickup load of wood. This is a DULL chain, not just dull. To me, that is grind time, and I drop them off at the store. That makes sense, or using a dremel if you wish (I don't).

-Continuous maintenance to keep a truly sharp chain. Every tank or two, two or three strokes with a file. Takes maybe 5-10 minutes max even on 20 to 24 inch bar. That is the difference between a chain that still cuts, vs. one the is sharp and fast and safer.

Try freshening the chain long before taking it in for grinding. Huge difference in production and speed.

Many prior threads on that topic on this BB.

k
 
Some people are just plan lazy or just don't or can't learn how to sharpen a chain and they should just go back to burning fossil fuel. I know many loggers that is I suggested about sending out their chains to be sharpened, I better run fast. I have been in the saw shop when someone dropped off a chain and the comment has been why do they even own one after they leave.
 
Shame on you lazy people.
Yeah just order your wood cut split & stacked, or better yet, just buy fossil fuel to heat with, cause ya don't have the added time or knowledge or time to learn the knowledge to sharpen your own chains.
And also, call a taxi if your transmission goes and you can't fix your own car yourself. And fix your own boiler if it breaks.
Oh and don't forget to do you own electrical, HVAC, plumbing etc. etc etc. or else your lazy.
A real man can fix everything and knows everything, otherwise hes lazy.
All I can suggest is take what info is useful to each here, and take the rest with a grain of salt.
Its getting sooooo macho in here.
 
yes, this thread turned into something I wasn't expecting.

On a brighter note, I just scored and huge ass Ash tree!! It it is a uprooted blown down in perfect condition. No rot or nothing. I was wondering how in the world I was gonna get it out of the woods but I am cutting it into 5-8 foot length and them dragging them with my 4-wheeler.

I didn't think it was gonna pull those logs but it does with ease. Not bad for a 500cc.

I love Polaris quads!
 
skinnykid said:
yes, this thread turned into something I wasn't expecting.

On a brighter note, I just scored and huge ass Ash tree!! It it is a uprooted blown down in perfect condition. No rot or nothing. I was wondering how in the world I was gonna get it out of the woods but I am cutting it into 5-8 foot length and them dragging them with my 4-wheeler.

I didn't think it was gonna pull those logs but it does with ease. Not bad for a 500cc.

I love Polaris quads!

Nice score. Free wood rocks!!!!!!!!
Sorry for the semi hijack of your thread. My tolerance for morons is low these days.
 
Hard Woods said:
My poulan wild thing is the biggest, baddest saw availible today. :)

AhhhhhHaaaa, ha, ha!

Oh, and by the way, using a quad to skid logs is lazy. You should wear a harness and pull them out like a sled dog. :coolsmirk:
 
What's a Polaris Quad, a ATV?

Do you also use it for other yard work, e.g., mowing with a tow mower? I've been thinking about replacing my old garden tractor, and an ATV seems a good possibility. I'd never be able to skid logs with my garden tractor, it doesn't even have a locking differential. As long as I like this to log skid, I haven't hijacked this thread, right?
 
Jerry_NJ said:
What's a Polaris Quad, a ATV?

Do you also use it for other yard work, e.g., mowing with a tow mower? I've been thinking about replacing my old garden tractor, and an ATV seems a good possibility. I'd never be able to skid logs with my garden tractor, it doesn't even have a locking differential. As long as I like this to log skid, I haven't hijacked this thread, right?

I do not use it for yard work because I just bought a house with a big yard but I already have a mower. But as I said, I found out it will skid logs of reasonable size and I am also getting a plow for this coming winter.
 
here ya go

IMGP0804.jpg
 
I had read earlier in the thread that the MS290 was called a pro level saw by a dealer. It is not. It is one of their midrange saws and a nice saw but not a pro saw. Price and plastic case reflects this.

I am one of the lazy guys who keeps 3-4 chains for my saw. When I put the last sharp one on I take the dull ones to the local saw shop and let him sharpen all of them for a minimal cost. I would rather be doing something else and I don't mind supporting the local saw shop. As it turns out I have spent as much money on chains and sharpening over the years as I have for my saw. No regrets though, I also buy premade (and sliced!!!!) bread from the store. You've got only so much time on this planet.
 
well, I'll jump in on this topic also, since I am getting back into the wood burning. My old Husqy is getting tired,. Sooo, I am leaning toward the MS290, but changing out the 20" bar for an 18". And thoughts on this set up? ( I like the 270 also)
 
"leaning toward the MS290, but changing out the 20” bar for an 18”. And thoughts on this set up?"

I have pretty much concluded on the same saw but leave the 20" bar and be sure that it has the somewhat optional 3/8" chain. Dolmar 5100s would be great too if they had better availability.
 
Highbeam said:
I had read earlier in the thread that the MS290 was called a pro level saw by a dealer. It is not. It is one of their midrange saws and a nice saw but not a pro saw. Price and plastic case reflects this.
.

They have a MS290 and MS290 Pro.
 
There is no MS290 Pro. There used to be a 029 Super. The MS290 is basically the 029 Super with flip caps. If you are thinking of the MS290, spend the extra $40 and buy a MS310. It will be right at $400 w/18" bar. Then you will have a full 3/8 chain setup and a more powerful saw at the same weight. Get a loop of RSC, it will have a yellow tie strap in the loop. The dealer will probably have the saw setup with RSC3 chain. See if you can swap that chain for the RSC.
 
your right, my bad, I meant the 260 and the 260 pro. I got my numbers confused. Sorry
 
If you can find a close by Dolmar dealer, they are well worth a look... I got a 7900 on-line just before Dolmar got stupid and shot themselves in the foot by cutting off on-line sales... You can get the smaller version of the same saw as the Makita 6400 from Baileys and other on-line shops, it's the same saw with a smaller piston & cylinder and blue covers instead of red. If the 6400 turns out to be to small the big engine is just a parts swap away...

The neat thing about the Dolmar 7900 is that it's an 80cc 6.5hp saw, in the same weight class as the Stihl / Husky 65 - 70 cc saws - best hp/weight ratio in the business, will go through Oak like it wasn't there... I use a 20" bar most of the time (effective length is really closer to 18" because of the agressive bucking teeth) and have a 28" bar that I mount for the really big stuff - I've run the 28" buried full length in maple and the engine didn't even slow down...

I've also heard great things about the 5100.

Gooserider
 
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