Oak wood burners, post your opinion

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How long do you wait to burn Oak species firewood for optimal burn & heat?

  • 6 Months

    Votes: 1 1.9%
  • 1 Year

    Votes: 2 3.7%
  • 2 Years

    Votes: 27 50.0%
  • 3 Years

    Votes: 18 33.3%
  • over 3 years+

    Votes: 6 11.1%

  • Total voters
    54
2 years and I'm at 15-16%. Uncovered, not much wind (stacked against a wall on one side), not much sun. It doesn't go much below that in 3 or 3+ years. Don't know if I've had any 4 year oak. Splits are generally 4-6" and 14-15" long.
 
I mostly burn Red Oak, since that's what dies or falls most frequently. When I first got dry-wood religion (thanks, Dennis,) I stacked 10+ cords, five years' worth for me. I scrounged small trees with the bark off, and just let the Oak go a couple years. With my stacks in the woods (trees kill wind,) three rows together on pallets, I saw the best burning after three years stacked, with 4-6" splits. I have a stack crash I'm picking up now, I think that part is three years, part is two. It's hard for me to keep track..once I was years ahead, I didn't make an effort to remember when I had stacked a particular section.
My supply is dwindling so I'm about to start stacking more Oak. It will be interesting to see how fast the White Ash I recently stacked for my SIL will dry. It was dead-standing for a few years, but still metered about 30%. She gets a little more wind, but three-wide rows on that stuff also. Maybe just the windward side might be ready in one year? I believe weather is a factor, as some have mentioned..
 
this season I’m burning ash and maple in our OWB that I cut over the summer and I’ve been happy with the change. The rounds started out lighter and split faster/easier than oak and it all dried to about 25-28% in 6 months. Is that White Ash and Sugar Maple? I think other varieties of those two woods (Green or Black Ash, Red or Silver Maple) dry much faster..
2.5-3 years here...pretty much all I burn is oak ...white,red,black,and pin oak..
What? No Shingle Oak? ==c It's just another Red, basically..
 
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I mostly burn Red Oak, since that's what dies or falls most frequently. When I first got dry-wood religion (thanks, Dennis,) I stacked 10+ cords, five years' worth for me. I scrounged small trees with the bark off, and just let the Oak go a couple years. With my stacks in the woods (trees kill wind,) three rows together on pallets, I saw the best burning after three years stacked, with 4-6" splits. I have a stack crash I'm picking up now, I think that part is three years, part is two. It's hard for me to keep track..once I was years ahead, I didn't make an effort to remember when I had stacked a particular section.
My supply is dwindling so I'm about to start stacking more Oak. It will be interesting to see how fast the White Ash I recently stacked for my SIL will dry. It was dead-standing for a few years, but still metered about 30%. She gets a little more wind, but three-wide rows on that stuff also. Maybe just the windward side might be ready in one year? I believe weather is a factor, as some have mentioned..
I've stacked splits 3 rows deep with space between them, and all dried fairly much the same. I have stuff stacked in the barn that does get air flow through the barn, that is about 7 cord all stacked together on pallets that is all pretty much the same dryness after 3+ years. It's fairly windy here much of the time, and there is no closed doors on the barn with two large openings.

I had wet ash that for me, was not ready in a year. At this point, I am far enough ahead that all is dry.
 
I've stacked splits 3 rows deep with space between them, and all dried fairly much the same. I have stuff stacked in the barn that does get air flow through the barn, that is about 7 cord all stacked together on pallets that is all pretty much the same dryness after 3+ years. It's fairly windy here much of the time, and there is no closed doors on the barn with two large openings.
I had wet ash that for me, was not ready in a year. At this point, I am far enough ahead that all is dry.
I'm trying to recall if you posted a couple shots of your place, several years back, and if I remember right, wasn't a ton of trees around your stacks. And I'll bet that barn warms up with the sun beating on the roof in the summer. My stacks, in the woods, are in a cooler, more humid environment; After a good rain, it takes a while for the soil in there to dry out.
I'm hoping the Ash at my SIL's can dry quick, even though it was at 30% when cut. I have this crazy notion that since it was dead-standing for several years, maybe that is just some kind of moisture that will dissipate quicker. I'm probably wrong, but dammit, I don't want to have to haul my wood down there to give her for next year.. <>
 
i did not cast my vote because my answer is not listed. I would cast my vote for 18 months. I CSS my wood over the winter.. i start in Feb and done in March, most of the wood being split and stacked in march. my wood is ready to burn the following fall. It takes 2 summers and ready to go. If were talking a kiln, again my wood is stacked my march, the kiln is started the first week in july. The wood is ready the end of August.. so 6 months fo the kiln would be my vote.. both ways get me to sub 18% wood... as a side note my wood is stacked in a shed for drying, so once split it go right in there and stays there untill im ready to burn.. the wood for the kiln goes right on racks top covered untill im ready to start the kiln
 
I don't burn a lot of oak, but I got into a little bit of red oak this year that was 2 summer seasoned and did ok in my stove, but i had it mixed with other stuff. After this year, everything I will burn from here on out will be 3 year (or 3 summer) seasoned as long as I keep up with replacing what gets burned...Which at this point isn't too hard to do.
 
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I don't burn a lot of oak, but I got into a little bit of red oak this year that was 2 summer seasoned and did ok in my stove
Hear any hissing, or see any wet spots on the ends of the splits? Any difference in the burn?
We had a couple small Red Elm rounds, unsplit, in the T5 when we first started burning it a couple months ago, but I couldn't really say if they slowed down the time it took to get the stove up to temp and the air cut..didn't have enough burns under our belt at that point to compare to.
 
I'm trying to recall if you posted a couple shots of your place, several years back, and if I remember right, wasn't a ton of trees around your stacks. And I'll bet that barn warms up with the sun beating on the roof in the summer. My stacks, in the woods, are in a cooler, more humid environment; After a good rain, it takes a while for the soil in there to dry out.
I'm hoping the Ash at my SIL's can dry quick, even though it was at 30% when cut. I have this crazy notion that since it was dead-standing for several years, maybe that is just some kind of moisture that will dissipate quicker. I'm probably wrong, but dammit, I don't want to have to haul my wood down there to give her for next year.. <>
I used to stack out in the open along the driveway on pallets 4 stacks deep on one end, and 2 stacks deep on the other.
For about 5 or 6 yrs I'm guessing, I have been stacking it in the barn, which gets good air flow as one large door is always left open, and the other large double doors are rotted and falling off.

In the barn, I have stacked two pallets worth deep 2 rows per pallet , so 4 rows deep. And last stacking I stacked about the same, but 6' to 7' high.

1st couple pics drive stacked.
Last 2 pics are in the barn.
 

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I used to stack out in the open along the driveway on pallets 4 stacks deep on one end, and 2 stacks deep on the other.
For about 5 or 6 yrs I'm guessing, I have been stacking it in the barn, which gets good air flow as one large door is always left open, and the other large double doors are rotted and falling off.

In the barn, I have stacked two pallets worth deep 2 rows per pallet , so 4 rows deep. And last stacking I stacked about the same, but 6' to 7' high.

1st couple pics drive stacked.
Last 2 pics are in the barn.

i like the stacks in the barn.. floor to roof.. the way your stacking will help the process.. looks good.. im sure some here will have some stack envy.....
 
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I used to stack out in the open along the driveway on pallets 4 stacks deep on one end, and 2 stacks deep on the other.
For about 5 or 6 yrs I'm guessing, I have been stacking it in the barn, which gets good air flow as one large door is always left open, and the other large double doors are rotted and falling off.

In the barn, I have stacked two pallets worth deep 2 rows per pallet , so 4 rows deep. And last stacking I stacked about the same, but 6' to 7' high.

1st couple pics drive stacked.
Last 2 pics are in the barn.
Looking at your wood it does look a little bigger than mine but not by that much. But along the driveway you are stacking deep and no cover and in the barn no sun and limited airflow. If I stacked that way I am sure it would take me 3 years as well. Not that I am saying there is anything wrong with the way you do it at all. But there are clear reasons it takes your wood 3x as long to dry.
 
Looking at your wood it does look a little bigger than mine but not by that much. But along the driveway you are stacking deep and no cover and in the barn no sun and limited airflow. If I stacked that way I am sure it would take me 3 years as well. Not that I am saying there is anything wrong with the way you do it at all. But there are clear reasons it takes your wood 3x as long to dry.
I used to top cover the wood on the side of the drive before winter rolled around, but found that only the top few splits would really be affected much by the weather. Plus, what gets burned for the season gets moved to my back porch which is covered by a deck.

The wood in the barn , while it does not get aged looking or dark like the wood exposed outside, does dry nearly the same, maybe a bit longer, as the barn truly has as much airflow as any breeze or wind going on outside. Tow big open "drive through" doors and open planked loft with another garage door opening size opening on the side, along with several window opening below, with no windows in them, lets a lot of air flow. I do think it will take a bit longer to dry in the barn. I have the room and time for being ahead, so it works for me. Teaches me patience too.
 
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I used to top cover the wood on the side of the drive before winter rolled around, but found that only the top few splits would really be affected much by the weather. Plus, what gets burned for the season gets moved to my back porch which is covered by a deck.

The wood in the barn , while it does not get aged looking or dark like the wood exposed outside, does dry nearly the same, as the barn truly has as much airflow as any breeze or wind going on outside. Tow big open "drive through" doors and open planked loft with another garage door opening size opening on the side, along with several window opening below, with no windows in them, lets a lot of air flow. I do tink it will take a bit loner to dry in the barn. I have the room and time for being ahead, so it works for me. Teaches me patience too.
I find when trying to dry things generally keeping water off of them is benificial. One year I had more wood split than I had metal to cover. That wood at the end of the year was about 6% higher than the stuff that was covered. Allot of that depends upon climate but yours is just about the same as mine so I would expect similar results
 
I used to top cover the wood on the side of the drive before winter rolled around, but found that only the top few splits would really be affected much by the weather.
In the woods, I have to cover or the leaves will pack in and hold a lot of moisture which can be a problem with woods that don't hold up as well, like Hickory. I was covering with long runner mats but they would sag between the rows or get blown off by the wind. I just lucked into about twenty 3x10' sheets of metal siding, a couple 12-footers and some shorter pieces that I can cobble together. The effectiveness of my stack covering just took a huge leap. :cool:
I've also started putting my pallets the other way, with the 2x4s going across, perpendicular to the stack rows. With that full 48" and less sagging in the pallets, I can get three 16" rows on there, hopefully without the stack crashes I've had in the past.
 
Better question is does oak EVER dry! I like larger splits for overnites but dang some of them refuse to burn without sizzle and smoke. Weird part is others in the same pile are just fine, I always wait at least two seasons before burning and top cover but all cut green. I think I need a barn. :)
 
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I chose the 2 year option, but I believe 3 years is even better, especially
for White Oak. Most of the Oak I burn is Red Oak. I do a mix with about
1/3 Oak and 2/3 other mostly hardwoods- mixed in the firebox. Also
use a fair amount of Cherry, Tulip (Yellow) Poplar, occasionally a little
Bradford Pear and Dogwood. I'm even burning a little of the dreaded
White Pine this year. Got some free from a tree crew working in the
neighborhood. I'm burning a little right now. It split easily and seasoned
pretty fast- 6 months. I'm pretty omnivorous when it comes to stove
chow. Oh, soft Maple, too, I get that fairly often. Occasionally Black
Locust and Black Gum. It's great, the variety of woods that grow
around here.

Clutter
 
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I chose the 2 year option, but I believe 3 years is even better, especially
for White Oak. Most of the Oak I burn is Red Oak. I do a mix with about
1/3 Oak and 2/3 other mostly hardwoods- mixed in the firebox. Also
use a fair amount of Cherry, Tulip (Yellow) Poplar...soft Maple, too, I get that fairly often. Occasionally Black
Locust and Black Gum. It's great, the variety of woods that grow
around here.
.
So you find that White dries slower than Red? It would make sense from a density standpoint, but I thought I read some folks here that said they thought White dried a little faster..
What about Tulip, does it dry faster than Red Maple (which was pretty good after about six months, as I recall?) That will be my backup plan for the in-laws if this ends up being a cold winter and they use more wood than normal. They have some live-cut Sweetgum and Elm stacked, but I doubt that will get dry over one summer..
I know what you mean about the variety; Really interesting to have a bunch of species to pick from. It's mostly the Red Oaks that die here, so that's mainly what I burn.
 
Hear any hissing, or see any wet spots on the ends of the splits? Any difference in the burn?
We had a couple small Red Elm rounds, unsplit, in the T5 when we first started burning it a couple months ago, but I couldn't really say if they slowed down the time it took to get the stove up to temp and the air cut..didn't have enough burns under our belt at that point to compare to.

Nope, no hissing or water boiling out. It started fairly easy, in fact easier than the Siberian elm of the same 2 year stack.
 
So, my neighbor has 3 80+ oak trees down on his property. All 3 are straight with minimal branches and are accessible with my tractor. We're just waiting for safe conditions to start harvesting them.
 
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We just had a good one.....24+ hours of freezing rain crap followed by a 3 day arctic spell here in SE CT. Nightly temps in the low teens, wind in the teens, gusts in the 20's, and day time temps of 20 couple and cloudy.

The stove went nuclear on me with 6.5 year old oak. That was with the air control shut (which is actually still about 25% open) and both key dampers in the flue shut. I wound up mixing 1/3 good oak with 2/3 crap (9 month old lightening strike un-split 6" limb wood that was covered in 1/4" of ice) just to keep things under control.

6.5 year oak burns quite HOT.
 
I'm an all oak burner. As a newbe I burned 1 year old oak, and blackened the glass ever fire, and a plugged cap screen. Even though they were hot fires. 2ed year was better. Then around the 3 or 4 years it turned around. Clean glass. The chimney was never horrible, but better today, almost 20 winters.
 
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I burn at least 8 cords of oak every year, among other stuff. But I have no horse in this race, voting is less fun than watching Hogz argue with bholler about how many months it takes oak to dry.
 
So you find that White dries slower than Red? It would make sense from a density standpoint, but I thought I read some folks here that said they thought White dried a little faster..
What about Tulip, does it dry faster than Red Maple (which was pretty good after about six months, as I recall?) That will be my backup plan for the in-laws if this ends up being a cold winter and they use more wood than normal. They have some live-cut Sweetgum and Elm stacked, but I doubt that will get dry over one summer..
I know what you mean about the variety; Really interesting to have a bunch of species to pick from. It's mostly the Red Oaks that die here, so that's mainly what I burn.

Well, it's more like I've been *told* White Oak seasons slower than Red Oak. But probably
true...

I'm not sure I have payed close enough attention to know whether Tulip Poplar dries any
slower or faster than the local Maples. (Not sure if it's Red maple or some other, but our
local Maples are certainly a 'soft' hardwood like Poplar) Anyway, I'd say the dry times are
probably comparable on the two. I definitely like that these two, plus Cherry, are generally
seasoned enough to burn the same year. (In a pinch- I'd prefer to give 'em a year if possible)

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