old jotul f118 vs. new jotul black bear

[begreen]

Moved this to the classic stove section as that seems to be where it's heading unless we find a new EPA stove for morso 1bo.

 

[Morso1bo]

Thanks, I do think that I am heading towards another classic stove. There just don't seem to to be any new box stoves that are big enough to suit my needs. I finally took a photo of my current 1B0 placement to post for you all to see why I really want another box stove. As I said earlier I had considered a Jotul Oslo 500 but was worried it would not fit the space well and that it might be hard to get all of it's heat out of the kitchen (more heat would be good).
Since I have posted last I have found and old green jotul f118 for $700 that is said to be in excellent shape, and another morso 1BO for 4-5 hundred that has had the seems cemented from the outside (and occasionally puffs smoke from one corner). Also wondering will a porcelin finish hide any cracks?

Thanks again for everyones input, it has been most helpful!

 

[begreen]

If the color isn't dark, usually enamel will reveal cracks pretty quickly. Did the picture get posted to another thread?

 

[Morso1bo]

Thanks for the answer to my enamel question. I took the pic today but then the camera from work died so I will try to get it posted tomorrow. One more quick question. Do you think the 1B0 and the f118 are relatively comparable in their heat output?

 

[begreen]

I would estimate them being close in heat output for the same wood load, but haven't owned either. It would be best to defer that answer to someone that has.

 

[Morso1bo]

After speaking to a woman selling a 1B0 in the next town over, she mentiond getting more heat from her 1B0 by using a damper on the flue pipe. Does this cause the stove to run hotter then it should? I really do not know what temp my actual stove runs at, I just keep a thermometer on the stove pipe. If it does not damage the stove it would be great to wring some more heat from the stove.
Thanks for your insight on heat output between the jotul and morso, I would guess that they have similiar out put too. The f118 has more cooking surface than the 1B0 which is good. I make maple syrup on the 1B0 1 pot at a time, I could fit at least two pots on a f118.

 

[begreen]

We used a key damper with the Jotul 602. It helps to have a pipe and a stove thermometer in that case. The stove didn't overheat when the damper was closed, it just stayed warmer and extended the burn a bit more.

 

[5 Furnace]

Hi- few years late to join this discussion- but as far as the Jotul 118 B cracking- mine is heating my backside right now and it (the stove I am referring to) has no cracks.

I shut off my oil burner 5 years ago- ever since I installed the 1978 stove, that my brother found at the dump. I checked it out thoroughly- no cracks then and now. That is a long and still continuing lifespan for a stove "prone to cracks". I do have a friend with one as well- his is cracked though- don't know what the circumstances were when it cracked- he inherited it that way.

I keep a close eye on it and shut down the air when I leave it unattended- it settles down to a clean, reliable burn around 300 degrees measured at the pipe right off the stove. Wood is sesoned oak, maple or locust I cut locally and season. Always more vigilant with locust, as it burns so much hotter.

I love never paying for fossil fuels!