Paint vs ceramic coatings

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What should I do to the stove

  • Sand blast and Powder coat with ceramic coating

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Sand blast/ stove bright

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Hand sand and clean and stove bright touch up if I can match color

    Votes: 3 75.0%
  • Nothing

    Votes: 1 25.0%

  • Total voters
    4

MNTIM

New Member
Oct 7, 2018
39
Minnesota
Hey guys so I ended up getting my 400$ lopi freedom. But before I install it I’m choosing to refinish it since I still have 2 working stoves.

My neighbor had his Avalon olympic sand blasted and powder coated with ceramic coating which “technically” holds heat inside but he still easily has 750+ stove top temps so I’m not sure he lost any radiant ability and if any how much do you guys think? .

Im debating either that or have it sand blasted and spraying it myself with a stove bright or similar. What experience do you guys have with starting from scratch.

I should be able to use my works washbay thats heated and ventilated to coat the stove if I choose to do it myself before summer comes. Or if anybody has any contacts in the Midwest I would appreciate it. I’m willing to pay if somebody can do it soon and right.
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I think it is in pretty good shape. I would just wire brush it on the spots where needed, use sand paper and then spray it with Stove Bright.

My Avalon Rainier looked similar when I got it. I used the method above and it looks like new now.
 
I think it is in pretty good shape. I would just wire brush it on the spots where needed, use sand paper and then spray it with Stove Bright.

My Avalon Rainier looked similar when I got it. I used the method above and it looks like new now.
Jan I agree the face looks great. My one concern would be if I did the entire stove top it wouldn’t match the stove unless the charcoal color matches lopi pretty well.. i know Avalon and lopi are both Travis stoves so I imagine it matched well or did you cover the whole stove? Thanks
 
Jan I agree the face looks great. My one concern would be if I did the entire stove top it wouldn’t match the stove unless the charcoal color matches lopi pretty well.. i know Avalon and lopi are both Travis stoves so I imagine it matched well or did you cover the whole stove? Thanks

I spray painted the entire stove, to make sure I had no color differences and because I did an extended install without a surround.
 
That won't take much to fix up. I did an Avalon a couple years ago and painted it with Stove Bright satin black. It came out great. Just use steel wool to clean up before painting. Then wipe down with alcohol and paint. Do this in a well ventilated space that is over 50ºF and use a proper respirator. The fumes from the paint are toxic. It will probably take about 1.5-2 cans and a few coats if the surround is getting recoated too.

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That won't take much to fix up. I did an Avalon a couple years ago and painted it with Stove Bright satin black. It came out great. Just use steel wool to clean up before painting. Then wipe down with alcohol and paint. Do this in a well ventilated space that is over 50ºF and use a proper respirator. The fumes from the paint are toxic. It will probably take about 1.5-2 cans and a few coats if the surround is getting recoated too.
Yeah I will recoat those also. Then I read to leave it for a week and it’ll “cure” and make it more durable while installing- then it’ll cure your first few fires.. I have a garage heated by a propane burner so I’ll have to find either an electric heater for the weekend i do it or find another location or wait till summer but that’s not a preferred option.
Thanks allot
 
Stove Brite paint fires off pretty quickly. If you preheat the garage up to 55-60 and then completely shut off the propane heater (and pilot if there is one) it should be ok for painting. Wait about an hour between recoats.
 
I'd just sand off the rust and stove brite the whole thing.

The stove brite will look funny and patchy if you try to just hit the spots that you sanded.

Take it outside and burn it hot after you paint it to spare yourself all the fumes. That stuff reeks when it cures.
 
I'd just sand off the rust and stove brite the whole thing.

The stove brite will look funny and patchy if you try to just hit the spots that you sanded.

Take it outside and burn it hot after you paint it to spare yourself all the fumes. That stuff reeks when it cures.
A nice chemical smell.;)
 
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I'd just sand off the rust and stove brite the whole thing.

The stove brite will look funny and patchy if you try to just hit the spots that you sanded.

Take it outside and burn it hot after you paint it to spare yourself all the fumes. That stuff reeks when it cures.
Thanks. I have read that it’s pretty bad
 
Correct. It contains a lot of Benzene and Toluene which are carcinogenic.
Yeah I knew that from my HAZMAT license. We dig up benzene from time
To Time. My favorite.
Well I think it’s oretty obvious that most people recommend keeping it
Simple and just using stove bright after rust removal and scuffing up the remaining paint. And a good acetone cleaning. The question will remain if I do it this winter with some Ingenuity for heat in the garage
 
Yeah I knew that from my HAZMAT license. We dig up benzene from time
To Time. My favorite.
Well I think it’s oretty obvious that most people recommend keeping it
Simple and just using stove bright after rust removal and scuffing up the remaining paint. And a good acetone cleaning. The question will remain if I do it this winter with some Ingenuity for heat in the garage
If you use acetone, not near a heating device. Extremely flammable. Heater must be off and cold when using these solvents.
 
Yeah i read you can do coats back to back with 20 minutes inbetween so I can get the garage which is insulated up to 75-80 then do my coats overs a hour or 2 with good ventilation and let sit for a week but during that week do I need to maintain a higher temp? Or can it go back down to 30-35 untill I install and do the curing.
 
To paint, 55F is the minimum.
What about between the painting and the curing. I imagine if it was painted at 55+ with the stove also at that temp it could then cool down untill I got it installed. Almost sounds easier to prep then install and set up a small paint booth in the basement. I did read the paint drys extremely quickly which makes indoor spraying easier
 
What about between the painting and the curing. I imagine if it was painted at 55+ with the stove also at that temp it could then cool down untill I got it installed. Almost sounds easier to prep then install and set up a small paint booth in the basement. I did read the paint drys extremely quickly which makes indoor spraying easier
After the 1st layer, a lower temp won't hurt. 2nd layer, 55 again.
 
Yeah i read you can do coats back to back with 20 minutes inbetween so I can get the garage which is insulated up to 75-80 then do my coats overs a hour or 2 with good ventilation and let sit for a week but during that week do I need to maintain a higher temp? Or can it go back down to 30-35 untill I install and do the curing.

You can paint it in the warm garage, let it sit at least 4 hours, then take it outdoors and burn it in the driveway. They want you to do that in 3 steps (kindling fire, 450° stovetop, then 600° stovetop). Ready to rock after that.

http://forrestpaint.com/stove-bright/stove-bright-user-guide/
 
You can paint it in the warm garage, let it sit at least 4 hours, then take it outdoors and burn it in the driveway. They want you to do that in 3 steps (kindling fire, 450° stovetop, then 600° stovetop). Ready to rock after that.
Yeah I read that. I just assumed may be easier to do that indoors after I paint it since it’s typically 0-15 degrees here in the winter.
http://forrestpaint.com/stove-bright/stove-bright-user-guide/
 
After the 1st layer, a lower temp won't hurt. 2nd layer, 55 again.
I will Be doing my coats of paint back to back in one day so only after it has been painted 100% will it cool down until I heat cure either outside or installed. I’m going to start getting the stove ready this next week. Thanks allot
 
I just assumed may be easier to do that indoors after I paint it since it’s typically 0-15 degrees here in the winter.

Hmm yeah, may be better for the paint to do it indoors, but I'd do it outside anyway. You are going to wind up with all your windows open in the 0-15° weather otherwise.

Too cold to have 'em open and too fumey to have 'em closed!
 
Hmm yeah, may be better for the paint to do it indoors, but I'd do it outside anyway. You are going to wind up with all your windows open in the 0-15° weather otherwise.

Too cold to have 'em open and too fumey to have 'em closed!

Yeah good point. And I have a 6ft chunk of flu I could add stick in the top for a little draft assistance.. then during install I shouldn’t have to worry about soft uncured paint!

The other option I had in mind was setting up negative air in the basement like I had during my basement floor removal and complete demo to not allow any dust back into the rest of the house
Some well placed poly and a few box fans sealed completely in 2-3 windows worked exceptionally well for the concrete dust I had along with drywall dust. And I could control which windows allowed air in and out depending on wind direction for that day
 
The one other thing I was concerned with was painting my surround to match but that would never get Hot enough to cure so I’ll be leaving that for now since it’s in good shape