PE Alderlea T5 Rusting / Pitting inside firebox

[Rustyball]

Haven't been on this site in a couple years. New issue found during annual cleaning, Heavy rust pitting on stove floor rear area by air intake that goes up to secondary air burner. Can I braze or weld this then high temp paint ? My dealer is out of business. Rather do this repair myself. Stove is about 6 yrs old now. Thanks for any advice. Anyone else having these issues? Rustyball

 

[begreen]

Is this on the firebox side or the bottom of the stove. If bottom, scrape, wire brush and paint.

 

[Rustyball]

Is this on the firebox side or the bottom of the stove. If bottom, scrape, wire brush and paint.

Thanks for your reply begreen, Sorry I wasn't clear on location, Its on the firebox side right below the fire bricks I will try to put up pictures. Rustyball

 

[Rustyball]

Thanks for your reply begreen, Sorry I wasn't clear on location, Its on the firebox side right below the fire bricks I will try to put up picture. Rustyball

 

[Rustyball]

View attachment 139053 View attachment 139054

Braze, Weld, Ospho and Hi Temp Paint,hi temp epoxy any ideas? base is 3/16 .187 thick pitts are .040-.050 deep. Thanks for any help or ideas, Rustyball

 

[BrotherBart]

You probably have, but I have to ask. Have you taken a scraper and scraped it down to make sure that isn't crud on the floor of the stove, not pits in the steel?

 

[Rustyball]

Brother Bart for a staff member with lots of experience I am surprised that you didn't read the full thread before commenting. You would have read how thick the steel is and how deep the pits are. Begreen any ideas on this pitting?Thanks

 

[BrotherBart]

Since it is on top of the manifold weld too, it still looks like crud hard caked.

 

[bholler]

First you need to stop the water from coming in from where ever its getting in. Then you might be able to braze it or weld it no reason to paint it that paint will be gone after the first fire. And to my knowledge there is no epoxy that will stand up to the heat in a firebox.

 

[bholler]

That looks like some hard caked stuff and some pitting from the pics but its hardto say either way there is obviously to much moisture getting in there

 

[begreen]

Since it is on top of the manifold weld too, it still looks like crud hard caked.

Easy to find out. Take a broad screwdriver and scrape it. If crud it will be brownish and dusty. That is what it looks like. If not and the screwdriver is against metal then it will probably need welding.

Does seem odd to be occurring in just this area. I'll be cleaning my stove soon and will take a look at the same are to see if the same crud and pitting is showing up in that location in our stove after 6 seasons of burning.

 

[Rustyball]

OK got in there and chopped and scraped hard very hard no crud at all just heavy rusting and pitting. I use the stove blower 24/7 during the heating season. This bottom/backwall area has cooler room air entering has got to be the coolest area inside the stove. Couple this with some moisture in the wood it must be condensation droplets and the caustic nature of the firebrick residue causing this rusting, sound good? Wood be nice to know if anyone else has this problem. Thanks embers! m

 

[begreen]

If that is rusting I would think it would be happening when the stove is idle. More like in the summertime if damp humid air is coming into the stove via the flue or OAK and hitting a cooler air conditioned interior.

 

[bholler]

If that is rusting I would think it would be happening when the stove is idle. More like in the summertime if damp humid air is coming into the stove via the flue or OAK and hitting a cooler air conditioned interior.

I agree or condensation in the liner coming down into the box

 

[Hogwildz]

Is the liner insulated?
That should not be happening, nor should it be sweating/condensing enough to cause all that. Neither of my Summits have that issue.
Matter of fact, both floors of my Summits are like new. Welding is fine, but you're seeing the symptoms of a larger issue.

 

[Rustyball]

Thanks for your reply Hogwildz, No liner just 6" SS chimney straight up 25' from outside Tee, no dripping or signs of dripping anywhere. Only very mild creosote build over the burning season.

 

[pma1123]

Isn't this part of the firebox floor stainless steel? Not to say stainless steel can't rust, but pitting like this is pretty deep...far more than just surface rust. I know the back air manifold passage is just mild steel.
Attached a 'new' shot of myT5 firebox for reference.

 

[bholler]

The moisture is coming from somewhere is it in a basement? Is it damp?

 

[Rustyball]

Isn't this part of the firebox floor stainless steel? Not to say stainless steel can't rust, but pitting like this is pretty deep...far more than just surface rust. I know the back air manifold passage is just mild steel.
Attached a 'new' shot of myT5 firebox for reference.

Thanks for your reply, pms1123 I took a magnet to every piece in my 2008/2009 T5 Fire box all are magnetic except the Baffle and 2 side pieces that hold up the baffle and fire brick. Yours looks like SS from here! SS is not cheap I bet PE made this upgrade for a good reason. thanks for posting the picture.

 

[Rustyball]

The moisture is coming from somewhere is it in a basement? Is it damp?

No basement, its in a dry dining room, thanks

 

[bholler]

There has to be moisture to cause that rust after you fix it you might want to try a light in there during the off season or some descant of some sort And pma is that box magnetic? I cant find anything from pe saying they went to a stainless box. Not saying you are wrong at all just curious

 

[Hogwildz]

The only S.S. on a PE is the baffle, baffle rails, and upper interior heat shield.
The firebox and floor are not S.S.

I'm betting the uninsulated liner is sweating and dripping when not in use/ summer.