Pipe connection?

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unitcrane

New Member
Nov 15, 2019
4
NC
Just registered on this site but have been a reader for a while. I totally heated with wood thru the 70's, 80's and 90's before getting too busy for the time it takes but have recently start heating with wood again. I am enclosing a couple of photos to help with a posible answer to something I need. I have a masonary chimney with an 8" flue, the stove is a FISHER Grandma and as you can see in the photos I built the heater box just for a wood stove. You can also see that I built the top rounded to assist the heat in a natural flow out with the help of a ceiling fan. I purchased selkirk double wall pipe because they have the long pipe that slips into the angled bottom thimble and it works fine the the finish ring removed. It lights and burns well but I need to put a damper on top of the stove: PROBLEM: the only slip pipe selkirk makes that I can find is the 12"-18" and there is no room for it all to fit together. I am considering changing the pipe to duravent because they have 3 different slip joint pipes that would make everything fit but I don't see where they have a long pipe for the flue.

Is there anyway to hook duravent to the selkirk thimble adapter or do you know how a better way?

Before the threads start; I don't need to discuss whether I need a damper or not, that I need a better stove than my old fisher, or that I need a ss liner in the chimney.
I am 68 years old an pretty much set on how I do things; I still run a clearing and grading business that gives me all the oak I need so effiency is not my quest.

I would like to have the stove out just a bit and have considered a 45 on each end if I have room, but I only have about 15 inches to work with.
Thanks for any help you can give.

heater 3.jpg heater 2.jpg
 
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Why double-wall pipe for that short run? What happens to the stove pipe after it passes through the brick?
 
Thats it; it ends in the thimble and the flue goes straight up. Double wall; just being double safe and longevity.
All the wood heating I have done has been with an insert in an existing fireplace so even with the experience I have, none of it involved using stove pipe. I am open to all suggestion. What do you think about the 45 at each end to set the stove out another 10"?
 
All the wood heating I have done has been with an insert in an existing fireplace so even with the experience I have, none of it involved using stove pipe. I am open to all suggestion. What do you think about the 45 at each end to set the stove out another 10"?
It looks like you have the hearth depth for it. That will put more heat out into the room and if this change permits inserting the key damper section, it sounds like a solution.
 
Dura vent has a stove top adapter with a damper in it. Personally if I was going to switch pipe, I’d just go with some quality 22ga single wall. The slip can be cut down to whatever length works best.