Positioning large rounds on the splitter.

[sirlight]

This question somewhat fits into the currently active "moving large rounds around the yard", but not exactly so I thought I would start a new thread.

I finally have my splitter and it is pretty much able to split anything I throw at it. What I am running into now is dealing with such large rounds. My rounds are oak and some upto 30" in diameter. I have pallet forks on my tractor and can easily lift the rounds into position for the first split. This is with the splitter in the vertical position. After making that first split, I need to reposition the log for the next split, but the logs are too heavy to move by hand. It seems unrealistic to hop back on the tractor and use the pallet forks to move the log between each split. I have a 60" peavey, but it is not of much help. I tried putting a sheet of plywood in front of the splitter to reduce friction between the log and the ground but did not help much.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how to easily rotate large rounds between splits?

 

[bigealta]

This question somewhat fits into the currently active "moving large rounds around the yard", but not exactly so I thought I would start a new thread.

I finally have my splitter and it is pretty much able to split anything I throw at it. What I am running into now is dealing with such large rounds. My rounds are oak and some upto 30" in diameter. I have pallet forks on my tractor and can easily lift the rounds into position for the first split. This is with the splitter in the vertical position. After making that first split, I need to reposition the log for the next split, but the logs are too heavy to move by hand. It seems unrealistic to hop back on the tractor and use the pallet forks to move the log between each split. I have a 60" peavey, but it is not of much help. I tried putting a sheet of plywood in front of the splitter to reduce friction between the log and the ground but did not help much.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how to easily rotate large rounds between splits?

Hand split with a maul around the edges, sounds crazy but it is easier than lugging around super heavy logs onto splitter .

 

[stoveliker]

Don't slide them but slightly tilt them so they stand on one point and the rotate one into position.

And yes, a hard surface below the splitter works better.

 

[sirlight]

Don't slide them but slightly tilt them so they stand on one point and the rotate one into position.

And yes, a hard surface below the splitter works better.

That is what I am trying to do, but it is not going well. Is there a better tool to use than a peavey? I have not had much luck trying to break down the large logs with wedges or splitting mauls.

 

[stoveliker]

I don't know; the times I used a (vertical) splitter was with oak, 30-40" dia. I sat on one round while I handled the rounds I was working on with my (gloved) hands in the way I described. My elbows on my legs to give more leverage.

I hope others have other techniques that might help; this is the only way I have done it and it worked well for me (I normally split by hand).

 

[Sawset]

The only tool I use is a the cant-hook/peavey. It's fairly easy to roll logs around. But difficult to slide them around.
So I roll into place, flop it down on the vertical splitter base, and run the wedge through.
If it needs more, then tilt it back up, roll it around till it's lined up, then flop it down again.

 

[ericm979]

Use the chainsaw and a splitting axe or maul to halve or quarter the rounds so you can pick them up and put them on the splitter in horizontal mode. If you cut along the grain ("noodling") the cut is much faster than the usual cross cut. Cut enough so its one well placed blow with the maul to make the split.

I find this a lot easier than wrestling with big rounds on their flat faces with the splitter vertical. That takes a lot of upper body strength while lifting is mostly legs if you do it right.

 

[sirlight]

Use the chainsaw and a splitting axe or maul to halve or quarter the rounds so you can pick them up and put them on the splitter in horizontal mode. If you cut along the grain ("noodling") the cut is much faster than the usual cross cut. Cut enough so its one well placed blow with the maul to make the split.

I find this a lot easier than wrestling with big rounds on their flat faces with the splitter vertical. That takes a lot of upper body strength while lifting is mostly legs if you do it right.

Great advise from everyone. Will try this and the other methods suggested. I am guessing that the rounds I am dealing with are between 300 and 400 pounds. Quite an effort to move them. Quartered logs are a easier to move, but still pretty heavy.

 

[bigealta]

That is what I am trying to do, but it is not going well. Is there a better tool to use than a peavey? I have not had much luck trying to break down the large logs with wedges or splitting mauls.

Try the very straightest pieces with no knots, then with a maul hit about 2-3 inches from the edges just trying to crack a piece a bit further in then the bark. If you find any natural cracks hit them dead on. You can do it. Once u see how the oak pops you will know what all us hand splitters are talking about. And forget the wedges.

 

[stoveliker]

Manually, I do as above. Specifically, I first slice off pieces off of the edges about where the sapwood ends and the heartwood starts with the x27.

 

[sirlight]

Try the very straightest pieces with no knots, then with a maul hit about 2-3 inches from the edges just trying to crack a piece a bit further in then the bark. If you find any natural cracks hit them dead on. You can do it. Once u see how the oak pops you will know what all us hand splitters are talking about. And forget the wedges.

An suggestion on a maul to purchase? I have been using a Fiskars 27 inch splitting axe with good results on fir logs, but no dice on oak. Will give it a shot aiming closer to the edges.

 

[stoveliker]

Fiskars 8 lbs maul. Can also whack it with a sledge hammer if you have to.

 

[bigealta]

I prefer the light mauls. I use an old craftsman with curved Axe handle. It's the speed of swing that works best for me. I think it's 6 lbs but might be even less. Wish i knew where to get one.

 

[sirlight]

I love Fiskars quality and warranty. I have used their slitting axe on small fir logs for years. It works well. I ended up with a small crack on the handle and Fiskars sent me a new one even without having to send back the cracked one. No idea how I managed to crack the handle. For all I know, I might have even driven over it with my tractor. Great company. I will pick up one of their mauls and give it a try.

 

[bigealta]

Wow crazy what they want for this old craftsman with bashed up handle.

 

[bigealta]

If not a Fiskers which i have not tried, then this and an axe handle from depot or lowes.

M2 6 lb Splitting Maul Axe Head Firewood Cutting Log Cabin Tool Woodsman | eBay

This is a M2 6 splitting maul axe head that is free of wood and in good to great condition with a great stamp mark. The head is 8 1/8" end to end and 3 3/4" across the axe bit with a weight of 5 lbs 9.5 ozs marked 6.

www.ebay.com

 

[sirlight]

Speaking of splitting large logs on a horizontal log splitter, what tool works best for lifting heavy logs onto the splitter? I have been using a pickaroon. It gives good leverage, but it is hard to keep the log balance while hefting it onto the splitter. Sees a but awkward. Would log tongs work better?

 

[bigealta]

A heavy (8lb) maul is for guys that swing high and slow and let the weight of the maul do the work. That's how my buddy does it. For me it's to heavy. For lighter mauls (6lbs or less), a fast swing is used. This works much better for me. Everyone has a preference. Both will crack open at least some of your oak. In the pics you definitely have some knotty pieces that will be a big hassle. Chainsaw best for those.

 

[sirlight]

A heavy (8lb) maul is for guys that swing high and slow and let the weight of the maul do the work. That's how my buddy does it. For me it's to heavy. For lighter mauls (6lbs or less), a fast swing is used. This works much better for me. Everyone has a preference. Both will crack open at least some of your oak. In the pics you definitely have some knotty pieces that will be a big hassle. Chainsaw best for those.

Yes, chainsaw might make the most sense for some of the logs. The arborist keeps dropping off logs. He brought more oak a few days ago (from a very sick tree) and some fir today. I am hustling to get this wood bucked, split and stacked before I run out of space. One thing is for sure, I will have some great firewood in a couple years when it is done seasoning.

 

[bigealta]

Those hollows are perfect to start getting your hand splitting game going on.

 

[sirlight]

Those hollows are perfect to start getting your hand splitting game going on.

Those wood donuts are a snap to split with an axe. Drop them on the ground and they will bust apart. This was one sick tree. Hey, beggars can't be choosers. I will take any wood I can get.

 

[bigealta]

Those wood donuts are a snap to split with an axe. Drop them on the ground and they will bust apart. This was one sick tree. Hey, beggars can't be choosers. I will take any wood I can get.

Easy splitting is 85% of the game.

 

[blades]

horizontal mode for splitter slide forks tigether to support rounds roll on to spliter . repeat to get to liftable size. I made a plate that sits on the forks and holds several rounds at a time. pull right up to splitter- big movable table if you will, and work them right down. way back when i tried the verticle mode, i had 5' dia rounds even noodling them down was a lot of work. By the time I would get to something I could move around in vertical it was easier to go horizontal. I have some 4' honey locust outside right now, got fire up the 084 and the 42" bar to make those more friendly to my poor old body. ( got 56" bar as well)

 

[sirlight]

horizontal mode for splitter slide forks tigether to support rounds roll on to spliter . repeat to get to liftable size. I made a plate that sits on the forks and holds several rounds at a time. pull right up to splitter- big movable table if you will, and work them right down.

That is an interesting thought. You have any pictures of your contraption? My rounds are pretty heavy, so it might be dangerous lifting them onto the splitter in horizontal mode. Once that first split is made, I will have two 150 pound logs falling off the splitter. With something to catch them, it might work.

 

[salecker]

On vertical you should be able to tilt the round on edge and roll it.
I move full 45 gallon drums by myself using the tilt and roll.When you find the balance point weight is no longer the issue.