Pro-Rib Metal Roofing - Wood Stove Install - Need advice/exp.

[IthinkI'mgettinOld]

Hello -

Getting ready to put a US Stove 2460 E in the shop/garage. It's a pole barn with a metal roof, no wood decking, just the trusses 2x6 supports in btwn and a layer of bubble wrap insulation. The order of that from the outside going in is....metal roof>bubble wrap>wood frame. Have thought about going out the wall, however it would be a lengthy 90 degree turn in the chimney or I would end up needing to go through the soffit anyway as the overhang is several feet. I'm not that into either of those scenarios, but I could be convinced otherwise, from experience. Straight flue is good though imo.

Have located good instructions from Selkirk on the chimney install for metal roof, looking to hear on people's experience, lessons learned, do's & don'ts, all the like...

Much appreciated!

 

[Dobish]

i don't think you should have a chimney anywhere near bubble wrap.

 

[rwhite]

I watched a you tube video of a solar tube installation that was very informative. Although its not a chimey the concept is the same with exception of needing additional clearance to the sheathing.

 

[IthinkI'mgettinOld]

i don't think you should have a chimney anywhere near bubble wrap.

Good call! I did not the bubble wrap is so flammable!! not good, kind of wish I didn't have it now...was in there when I bought the place. Probably maintain the 2 ft to combustible protocol and be safe, but may give it an extra foot or two with that stuff...

 

[mcdougy]

Your going to want some extra strapping under the tin above and below the chimney pipe. Remove the roof metal sheets to expose the trusses you will be passing between with the pipe. Remove the bubble wrap (as much as you feel comfortable with) nail extra 2x4 or 6 between the trusses. I reccomend going solid 2x material for 15" above and below your pipe diameter. This extra strapping is for supporting the steel but more importantly giving you something to screw into when putting the flashing on. I reccomend using a masterflash style flashing. There are some that are rated for woodstove pipes. I am assuming you are using insulated pipe. These flashing fit well around the rib of the steel. Apply lots of silicone under the flashing on top of the metal. If you use the galvanized storm collar type flashing around the penetration chances are it will leak when using it on metal. The master flash is a awesome seal and will not leak.

 

[Chas0218]

I would rather the roof leak in the overhang than in my garage or house. The less holes in my roof the less likely it is to leak. I am installing a wood stove in my house with a metal roof and bubble wrap. I am using the thru wall duravent triple wall with 2" clearance. I would rather my chimney be outside than in my house in the event of a chimney fire. I can easily access the flue and cap the fire if need be. Also much easier to inspect everything when it isn't enclosed in a wall or attic. By the sounds of it you will be using a rubber boot either way. I'm not sold on them but they do work when properly installed. At my cottage I installed a wood stove using the rubber boot thru my metal roof and no issues of it leaking. I get water from the hard north winds and rain down my chimney.

 

[begreen]

Hello -

Getting ready to put a US Stove 2460 E in the shop/garage. It's a pole barn with a metal roof, no wood decking, just the trusses 2x6 supports in btwn and a layer of bubble wrap insulation. The order of that from the outside going in is....metal roof>bubble wrap>wood frame. Have thought about going out the wall, however it would be a lengthy 90 degree turn in the chimney or I would end up needing to go through the soffit anyway as the overhang is several feet. I'm not that into either of those scenarios, but I could be convinced otherwise, from experience. Straight flue is good though imo.

Have located good instructions from Selkirk on the chimney install for metal roof, looking to hear on people's experience, lessons learned, do's & don'ts, all the like...

Much appreciated!

Long horizontal runs of stovepipe are to be avoided. They decrease draft and can become creosote traps. You will need to frame in a support structure for the chimney. I'm not sure what would work best for your situation, but one option might a good metal roof flashing. Don't go with a rubber boot. Excel makes a good one. The second shot is of the flashing, tucked under the ridge cap. Note the storm collar has not been installed yet in this picture. Also note that it doesn't get caulked on the bottom edge. If installed properly it will not leak.

 

[webby3650]

Do not remove the roofing as someone else suggested...
All you need is the flashing that was suggested above. A 2x4 block below and above the flashing will help stabilize the whole set up. Just make sure to maintain the 2” clearance. As for the bubble wrap: there’s no need to remove it any further than any other combustible material, wether that’s a 2x4 or oil soaked wraps!