The convection blower on my CB1200 did not come on after an hour last night and the top of the unit was obviously quite hot. The unit is two years old and kept relatively clean. I noticed last season that it took an excessive amount of time for the convection blower to come on but this year it apparently will not come on at all. Just a while ago I shorted the two wires to the snap disc, powered on the unit, but the blower still did not come on. Before I order a replacement, can I assume the blower has gone bad or is there something else I should check? Thanks in advance.
Quadrafire Classic Bay 1200 Convection Blower
- Thread starter ahough
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check the wires it also maybe the control board if you put power to the blower and it runs then you will know if the blower is bad or not
Welcome ahough to this frendly forum..... 
.... if all else is working, check that there is voltage between the white and the red (or black) wires..... if voltage is present but no go then problem is with the blower.... carefull there is 'voltage' that will make you look like this.... :wow: ..... if your not comfortable, get a tech to check it first..... hpe this helps........ cc
.... if all else is working, check that there is voltage between the white and the red (or black) wires..... if voltage is present but no go then problem is with the blower.... carefull there is 'voltage' that will make you look like this.... :wow: ..... if your not comfortable, get a tech to check it first..... hpe this helps........ cc Attachments
![[Hearth.com] Quadrafire Classic Bay 1200 Convection Blower](/talk/data/attachments/22/22226-8a897ab369b68997e1dc8dffc631a64c.jpg?hash=70cdUD3gOF)
great job. if people want to help this is the correct way to explain things.CanadaClinker said:Welcome ahough to this frendly forum.....
hearthtools said:great job. if people want to help this is the correct way to explain things.CanadaClinker said:Welcome ahough to this frendly forum.....
.... thats Rod..... yes... too close to Christmas to become a 'fried' turkey.... or to get hair like this..or worse .... cc :lol:
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![[Hearth.com] Quadrafire Classic Bay 1200 Convection Blower](/talk/data/attachments/22/22229-7839c6bef5653dcc8e2e6197ca29a289.jpg?hash=eTkHGBJC6m)
The safest way to test voltage on most HOT circuits of a pellet stove is used a non contract voltage tester
(broken link removed to http://www.greenlee.com/product/gt-11/start.html)
Some are adjustable. some of the expensive ones are way to sensitive and will read power from wires next to the wire you are testing and give you a false reading.
the best one to get is an adjustable one that will only read when you are touching the wire.
a few years ago I was looking at sears.com clearance page and they had a bunch of what they called Christmas tree light testers.
I guess they did not sell to well because they had them on clearance for 99 cents each I bought 25 of them.
I still have a few. just need to change the watch batteries in them. they work great because you have to touch the wire to read the voltage
But be warned some stoves like the older Breckewells Use the neutral wire to connect to limit switches to kill a blower so this kind of tester will not work.
(broken link removed to http://www.greenlee.com/product/gt-11/start.html)
Some are adjustable. some of the expensive ones are way to sensitive and will read power from wires next to the wire you are testing and give you a false reading.
the best one to get is an adjustable one that will only read when you are touching the wire.
a few years ago I was looking at sears.com clearance page and they had a bunch of what they called Christmas tree light testers.
I guess they did not sell to well because they had them on clearance for 99 cents each I bought 25 of them.
I still have a few. just need to change the watch batteries in them. they work great because you have to touch the wire to read the voltage
But be warned some stoves like the older Breckewells Use the neutral wire to connect to limit switches to kill a blower so this kind of tester will not work.
hearthtools said:
.......thanks again...... gotta get me one of them.......greenlee makes great solid stuff...... Xmas is coming..cc
![[Hearth.com] Quadrafire Classic Bay 1200 Convection Blower](/talk/data/attachments/22/22242-d01348e8d338d8dfef05f9e49e29998f.jpg?hash=iyWE15R3P4)
......... just to get this straight in my mind..... are you asking about the 'convection blower' that blows warm air into your room or the 'exhaust blower' that pushes the smoke out the chimney..... the convection blower looks like the one in the previous wiring diagram I posted for you earlier...... cc ....... Edit..... Convection blower - 812-3370 .......Exhaust blower - 812-3381 .
....... Edit..... Convection blower - 812-3370 .......Exhaust blower - 812-3381 .Attachments
![[Hearth.com] Quadrafire Classic Bay 1200 Convection Blower](/talk/data/attachments/22/22243-1da984644a475116c2f24d384f49ec71.jpg?hash=5UHwqnUYzg)
![[Hearth.com] Quadrafire Classic Bay 1200 Convection Blower](/talk/data/attachments/22/22244-0b80dd7c80ce34b35e4b1cb23baf5169.jpg?hash=UB-Y3nRMCq)
The first thing I'd check is the snap switch controlling the blower. That is what failed for us with this stove.
To check, this is from the service manual:
1) CHECK FOR POWER AT THE PURPLE WIRE FROM THE #11 PIN AT THE SNAP DISC.
A. IF POWER IS PRESENT ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DISC: CHECK THE WIRE HARNESS OR REPLACE
THE CONVECTION BLOWER.
B. IF POWER IS PRESENT ON JUST ONE SIDE: REPLACE THE SNAP DISC
C. IF NO POWER IS PRESENT: CHECK THE FUSES & WIRE HARNESS OR REPLACE CONTROL BOX
To check, this is from the service manual:
1) CHECK FOR POWER AT THE PURPLE WIRE FROM THE #11 PIN AT THE SNAP DISC.
A. IF POWER IS PRESENT ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DISC: CHECK THE WIRE HARNESS OR REPLACE
THE CONVECTION BLOWER.
B. IF POWER IS PRESENT ON JUST ONE SIDE: REPLACE THE SNAP DISC
C. IF NO POWER IS PRESENT: CHECK THE FUSES & WIRE HARNESS OR REPLACE CONTROL BOX
Well, I'm quite embarrassed. My stove is not a Quadrafire CB 1200 but instead a Lennox PS40 Windslow. To me they look very similar but the dealer where I purchased the unit confirmed this for me just a moment ago. From the PDF manual, it looks as though I need to clean a few things including the convection fan before I rule anything out. Sorry to have bothered everyone with bogus information.
(broken link removed to http://woodheatstoves.com/country-pellet-stove-parts-c-292_90_221_371.html)
if its a bad fan, let us know, they are in stock
if its a bad fan, let us know, they are in stock
I just removed the fan and it looks very clean. I am wondering about the snap switch. I removed it and checked it with a multimeter. There is continuity across the terminals unless I depress the reset button which then opens it. Is this normal operation for this switch?
I just removed the fan and it looks very clean. I am wondering about the snap switch. I removed it and checked it with a multimeter. There is continuity across the terminals unless I depress the reset button which then causes an open circuit. Once I release the reset button, there is continuity again. Is this a Normally Closed relay? Normally-closed (NC) contacts disconnect the circuit when the relay is activated; the circuit is connected when the relay is inactive. It is also called a Form B contact or "break" contact.
Where'd all the assistance go? We're expecting snow today and it would be nice to get the stove running.
Lots of help aboveahough said:
Kind of hard to help with out being at the stove to do it our self.
Did you try connecting the blower to power to see if it works and or used some kind a meter to see if power is going to it?
CanadaClinker said:
.......Rod....... guess what is going to be in my 'stocking', this Christmas..... I picked up a GT-11 at a local electrical place yesterday ($21) and Mrs. Santa is wrapping it up for me....like that it takes AAA batteries rather than watch type....... thanks for the tip..... cc :cheese:
CanadaClinker said:
I have one of the Fluke versions at work.
(broken link removed to http://us.fluke.com/usen/Products/Fluke+1AC+II.htm)
I like it and it has saved my can a few times. Always test the curcuit before performing any work! Or you will like the "sparky" guy above.
jtakeman said:
.......hey Jay.....how U doin?? ......... hey that one looks like a 'good' one too...... you can switch off the beep if you want and uses AAA batteries too...... small diff is it is 90V and up where as the Greenlee is 50V and up.... nothing to worry about cause 50V is just as bad as 90V..... I use a Fluke 77 at work...... thanks Jay............ cc
........ so u like the hat???? :lol:
IMO the higher voltage is better so you dont get false reading thinging you have 120V when your board is giving low voltage.CanadaClinker said:jtakeman said:
.......hey Jay.....how U doin?? ......... hey that one looks like a 'good' one too...... you can switch off the beep if you want and uses AAA batteries too...... small diff is it is 90V and up where as the Greenlee is 50V and up.... nothing to worry about cause 50V is just as bad as 90V..... I use a Fluke 77 at work...... thanks Jay............ cc
........ so u like the hat???? :lol:
and I had a fluke that was not adjustable for sensitivity and it was a PIA because it read wires I did not want to check.
As usual, I had my head up and locked. Really need to get back on the Prozac /sarc. I was looking at the wrong switch and someone else got me steered in the right direction. Once I started looking at the correct switch, I bypassed it and the convection blower fan came on. Thanks to all for the assistance.
CanadaClinker said:jtakeman said:
.......hey Jay.....how U doin?? ......... hey that one looks like a 'good' one too...... you can switch off the beep if you want and uses AAA batteries too...... small diff is it is 90V and up where as the Greenlee is 50V and up.... nothing to worry about cause 50V is just as bad as 90V..... I use a Fluke 77 at work...... thanks Jay............ cc
........ so u like the hat???? :lol:
Yes that hat has class!
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