Question about Upper Auger Quitting on Englander 25PDVC - Mike you around?

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pakrazee

Member
Aug 15, 2008
26
NE PA
Hey All,

Last night my stove stopped unexpectedly after I filled the hopper. So I took all the pellets out, and vacuumed all the fines out. Took the back cover off and wiggled the auger. Turned it on, and it worked all night, I figured I had a jammed auger.

Woke up this morning, and topped off the hopper, about 15 minutes later, no flame again. So I repeat procedure from last night, thinking its a jam. After I cleaned out all the pellets out I turned it on to see if the auger would move. It didn't. So I took off the auger motor, yes it was hot, and pulled the auger, cleaned and greased the bearing and reinstalled it. The big nut that holds the motor to the auger was at the bottom, so I figured I would plug in the unit turn it on and when the nut was at the top shut it down to reconnect it to the auger. Well when I started the unit, nothing happened, it was getting power but wasn't turning.

I tried to call Englander but they are closed due to the storm.

So my question is, just to make sure, if I am holding the auger motor and turn the stove on, shouldn't the spindle move?

Thanks for any help.
 
The bottom auger will always be moving, the top one is dependent on the heat setting, controlled by the control board. Were there any error codes in the display? Some people have said a blocked hose or port to the vacuum switch may cause this, but I believe it sets a code. I have never seen a code on my stove,ever. Do you have a test meter or a couple of clip leads and a 110 volt lamp? If you don't. and if you feel comfortable with it, see if your bottom motor is turning. If it is, mark your wires and hook the bottom wires to the top motor for a moment, turn the power on briefly, and see if it turns then. You should learn to use a simple meter, or test lights. They will save you time and money! Dario Shack clip leads and a cheap 110 volt pilot lamp, about 5 bucks.
 
Thanks Brek,

I do know how use a meter, I wrote this before my morning coffee ;)

I just did move the bottom auger wires to the top and it moved, I didnt see any codes, so I do a search for vacuum switch.
 
Pak,

On the right hand side of the firepot there is a small hole on the back of the wall...make sure it isn't clogged. Not sure what year yours is but attached to that hole on the back is a hose that goes to a vacuum switch...you could try jumping out the switch once you verify that the auger motor is good.
 
slvrblkk,

Thats exactly what I did and its working now. I assume that its ok to run without the vacuum switch until I get a new one from Englander.

Thank you guys very much!!
 
pakrazee said:
slvrblkk,

Thats exactly what I did and its working now. I assume that its ok to run without the vacuum switch until I get a new one from Englander.

Thank you guys very much!!

The switch could still be good, you need to trace the tube and make certain that the end that goes into the exhaust path or where ever it goes is clear (not the switch end) . A little soot in that tube or where it attaches and it won't see what it needs to see.
 
My stove has a different setup, it is a bit older. The vacuum switch is pvc hosed to the inlet chamber of the combustion blower. It is just a little farther back in the air path. It does not look like it could be foulded by anything from where I can see, but that damn soot just gets into everything. Sorry about the meter thing. You don't know how often I hear, a meter of what?
Bill
 
pakrazee said:
slvrblkk,

Thats exactly what I did and its working now. I assume that its ok to run without the vacuum switch until I get a new one from Englander.

Thank you guys very much!!

Yes, it's fine to run without it....Englander sent me a new one but said I really didn't need to install it if I didn't want to...I believe the newer ones don't have that vacuum switch anymore.

Edit...should read before I post...It's ok to run the switch I talked about jumped out....as for the combustion blower switch, I would change as soon as possible if you have that jumped out.
 
Not a problem, Brek, you helped me down the right path.

And the switch I jumped was not the one for the combustion blower. I am gonna clean the tube itself next time I do a complete cleaning, it was cold, so as soon as it fired up it was stayin on!!

Also I think I'm gonna take the bottom auger out as well next cleaning, cause the grease I put in the upper auger sure did quiet it down.

its nice and cozy in here now, time for a beer :)
 
Do you have more than one vacuum switch? And, I hear the newer stoves have some door switches as well. The only things that connect to my control board (other than 4 motors and line cord) are the temp sensor, which I assume is for 2 things- 1) room air blower on/off and 2) overtemp.
 
breklaw said:
Do you have more than one vacuum switch? And, I hear the newer stoves have some door switches as well. The only things that connect to my control board (other than 4 motors and line cord) are the temp sensor, which I assume is for 2 things- 1) room air blower on/off and 2) overtemp.

If this question was directed at me then yes...one for the combustion blower and one to stop the upper auger when you open the hopper....the hopper one is the one tech support said I really didn't need....I believe it was replaced by a switch in the hopper itself.
 
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