Question on tricky install

[jhinky1986]

Ok gang,
I am installing a radiant stove downstairs. It will be sitting 20 inches away from wall. Its going to have a wall behind it that looks like a old fireplace with stone mental.
-I got everything figured out from stove to the wall, But at the wall I get lost. My wall to masonry chimney is 12 inches apart. So basic wall thimbles would not work cuz gas in pipe would cool down from back of wall thimble to chimney. Cuz that would be exposed to temp changes using a basic wall thimble. (as I was told) (that sound right to you all')
-- does anyone know of a wall thimble that extends 12 inches on back side of wall to chimney?

Other option I am looking into, is using class A chimney section, cement it in the hole on existing masonry chimney. Then run that into the stove pipe. By doing this I would need to have a indent in the wall (cubby) that at least 9 inches away from pipe on all sides.
- only thing I am confused about on this part is what are they talking about by using sheet steel supports. something about supporting class A chimney on both side using sheet metal? menards or homedepot are my box stores. I see wall bands, loop with metal for fastening or this big Supervent 6" Adjustable Intermediate Wall Support.

 

[begreen]

Take a look at this article and read up on Saf-T-Thimble (heat fab) and Insul Flue (Dalsin)options.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/chimney-passing-a-chimney-through-the-wall.147754/
http://www.dalsinmfg.com/insulflue.html

 

[jhinky1986]

talked to Selkirk customer service few days ago and he did not sound to sure with the saf-t-thimble. He did not make it sound like it was going to work with the 12 inch gap from combust wall to chimney. have not had a chat or emailed insul flue. I was looking and leaning towards the Insulated Chimney Section Method - NFPA --- if I can't find a wall pass through that insulated all way to chimney. I don't feel to safe with fabricating a heat shield extender.

 

[begreen]

Dalsin's Insul-Flue might be a solution. They have several variations including one that will pass DuraVent's double-wall connector pipe to the chimney. Or you could open up the wall with 9" clearance above a double-wall connector. For extra safety you could put a vented metal heat shield on 1" spacers underneath the top stud, similar to a mantel shield.

 

[jhinky1986]

ya that what I was leaning to. open the wall out. Insul can get spendy fast with extras.
I was told to use a double wall stove pipe adaptor to Class A chimney and cement that class A chimney in to my clay liner/cement block. Insulated Chimney Section Method - NFPA
like attached image

 

[begreen]

Class A has 2" clearance, but it is heavy. I would support it with a bracket and not rely on just the cement. What is in the 12" gap between the chimney and building? Is the chimney indoors or exterior?

 

[jhinky1986]

there is nothing in the gap. Its just dead air. Chimney in middle of house. on one side I might build a closet, But I will leave the 2 inch gap that is needed by a chimeny. Other side would just be dead air.

I know I thought about just not doing a cubby and cement board flush with the sheetrock on front, and back side of wall has all the air vented out. ONLY issue is I want to build a closet one of these days.

ya I know Class A has 2 inch clearance but the NFPA booklet say to use 9 inch clearance all directions from outerwall of chimney.
Following the book. so insurance guy's are happy!

 

[begreen]

OK, the picture helps a lot. You are right, must meet or exceed NFPA guidelines. Odd setup, you could almost take a wide section of the wall and move 12" back to the chimney for a shallow alcove, but that would be more costly. Is the wall behind the stove designed for clearance reduction? What stove?

 

[jhinky1986]

the wall has cement pored curb for the first 4 inches. lol so moving it is pain in the but.

yes I will have a NFSP-211 wall behind it. US stove BEC95 stove calls for 26" from combust I will have stove 20 inches from combust, Plus a NFSP-211 wall. cement block wall 72 inch wide 56 high, with durrock cement board on face. Then tiled on slate. ALL are 1" or greater from the wall. Trying for most safe way possible. Went with BEC95 because you can touch the outside of unit with out burning all your skin off. Good for pets/kids.

here a good question... if I where to have a gap of 4 inches in the middle and 1 inch on the outside (basically make a U shape with cement blocks is that ok too? or does it have to be 1" gap flat across back of wall shield? I ask cuz could save money on 4" block vr 8"

 

[begreen]

I would go for a modern stove that is much more efficient, closer clearances (without the wall shield) and has a nice fire view. The Ashley will no longer be for sale as of Jan 2016. Kids and pets understand hot, though the pets will gravitate to the heat for sure. Our kids grew up with the wood stove and always respected it. If the kids are young a kid gate can be put around the stove for better peace of mind.

NFPA 211 lists several different wall shield options depending on the degree of clearance reduction desired or allowed by the stove mfg..
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/nfpa-wall-clearance-reductions/

 

[jhinky1986]

Whats the recommended stove for 3000 sq feet house (but really I don't heat all 3000 feet) 2 level rambler. wood stove in basement. Don't need it supper hot, I like 70. price range is probably $1000 or less. My box stores are menards/home depot. Also have a some fleet stores too!
Northern Minnesota house. well insulated! 1980's

thanks.

 

[begreen]

The Englander 30NC, Drolet Legend (Austral or Myriad) II or Drolet HT2000 are all big stoves that show up at the big box stoves or are available online, often with free shipping. There are many threads on these popular models.

 

[jhinky1986]

i will have to look into them. thanks you.

 

[jhinky1986]

The Englander 30NC, Drolet Legend (Austral or Myriad) II or Drolet HT2000 are all big stoves that show up at the big box stoves or are available online, often with free shipping. There are many threads on these popular models.

is Grams per hour just for epa. or is that efficiency rating. I have always seen ratings in % not grams.
Basically trying to figure out which stove you recommended is most efficient. found the HT200 and Myriad at menards and englander -30nch at home depot.

 

[BrotherBart]

Grams per hour are purely for particulate emissions. The EPA doesn't care if you freeze to death. Just that your neighbor isn't coughing when you do.

 

[begreen]

All of those stoves are quite efficient. Particulate emission is just one test. Like EPA auto testing this is just one indicator of how the stove performs. Put a lead footed driver behind the wheel and EPA mileage figures are meaningless. Put poor fuel in a car and its mileage will also plummet. Same with a wood stove and in particular with modern stoves. They need good draft, fully seasoned fuel and proper operation to get the best out of them.

 

[kennyp2339]

Grams per hour are purely for particulate emissions. The EPA doesn't care if you freeze to death. Just that your neighbor isn't coughing when you do.

Yes- this, I was board the other day so I googled NJ woodstove ban, there was a article of a single mother in Southern NJ who went to court over a neighbors complaint from woodstove smoke, the judge ruled in favor of the neighbor and put restrictions on when the single mom could have the stove burning.
I almost want to find out some how what the lady's current setup is to see if its a new or older stove, and what the wood supply looks like.

 

[jhinky1986]

hey guys are Century FW3000 High Efficiency Wood Stove model cb00004 any good.
They are 200-300 dollars cheaper then the drolet HT2000.

 

[begreen]

The Drolet line and Century line are both made by SBI. Century is their bargain line. The FW3000 is a good value and has a nice big firebox.