Questions about axe splitting gnarly rounds

[warno]

I haven't got them yet but I plan to get a Fiskars X27, some wedges, and a 10 pound sledge.

My question is what's the best approach to hand splitting the twisty grained, knotty, horrible to split wood that's out there?

I've watched YouTube videos on hand splitting but they all seem to be on straight grained wood that simply flies apart. I know it's not all like that.

 

[AmbDrvr253]

HYDRAULICS

 

[Craig S.]

Usually, you can get some of the wood off some the twisted/forked pieces without breaking your back. Beyond that, without a splitter, IMHO, its not worth the effort.

I don't have a splitter, so what I do is pay them forward. I put the twisted hard to split pieces to the curb, and post them to craigslist in the free section and specify that someone is going to need a splitter to process them. Always disappears in a day or so. I've got enough wood without breaking my back with these.

 

[Little Digger]

When I split some elm and residential ash recently (some really twisted, stringy, heavily knotted wood) I worked my way around the edges splitting off slabs until I was down to the heart wood or smaller where I could just split it into the traditional pie pieces.

My first splitting axe of choice is the Fiskars X27. If that one won't do the job, then I'd move on to an Ames splitting axe with a wavy red fiberglass handle which by the way I broke (must have been defective even though I had used it for several years) and had to purchase a new one. If that one still doesn't do the job, then I move on to a Collins 6# splitting maul. If that one fails, then I have a 20# sledge with a couple of sharpened wedges. If all of those fail, then there is the last option! The chainsaw to rip or noodle, whatever anyone calls it, to firewood size. I'll save the round, or in most cases the portion of a round I wasn't able to completely split to size, and put it on the side so that when I have enough I can put the chainsaw to work.

I use the Fiskars X27 for the majority of my splitting though. I also have the Fiskars X7 hatchet to help cut the string

 

[jatoxico]

After sizing up a round I take a shot at even the nastiest looking rounds. You can sometimes be surprised at the pieces that split pretty easy. If not give a turn and try again. I rarely take an all out swing. If it won't split or at least start to split I probably didn't correctly figure how the round wants to split.

It's a matter of experience but I will say one of my favorite moves is to lay rounds on end and cut straight through a tough knot or crotch that's holding up progress with the Fiskars. Fiskars is sharp and I usually can cut through the branch/knot/crotch and split the round lengthwise. Very effective.

 

[David.Ervin]

I'll usually try to hit the round from the end furthest from the knot so the wood starts splitting and gets some leverage to break the tough fibers around that knot. It also seems to help to aim for a little to the left or right of the knot, so your split follows the straighter grain around it, rather than trying to break the wood thats running perpendicular to the rest of your log.

It also helps to have a few different tools, which you do. Take a shot with the x27, grab the big maul once it opens up a little.

 

[Applesister]

Wood has a natural inclination to split radially and along the growth rings. Just look at your dried splits to see its direction. It gives you small hints where its weaknesses are.
Mind over matter.

 

[ElmBurner]

I think the species has more to do with splitting ease than knots. You can still bust apart cherry or oak with knots, as long as you cut the rounds into small size and attack it correctly.

If all else fails, I noodle them. With a sharp chain and good saw, it doesn't take that long.