Regency I2400: high pitched noise at half draft or less?

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BobNorman

Member
Oct 8, 2008
17
NE Canada
Hi all,

Just wondering of others here have found this problem with the Regency I2400. When the damper is set to half or less, and the blower fan is off, the unit produces a whine, or hum. It's a high-pitched noise that is really annoying, sounds likes like its caused by a very rapid and slight metal vibration from air movement. I've heard from my installer that there have been a few complaints of this.

Anyone here have a similar experience? Anyone know what to do about it? Or if Regency has addressed this?

All advice is welcome, the retailer so far has denied hearing of any problems of this nature with this unit.
 
yes i have experienced the noise. your unit is not heated up enought/reached operating temp.

dont close the damper down too quickly, let it heat up a bit.

not that its a good thing to hear, but when you do you know that the stove hasnt reached it operating temp yet.

dont know why your blower would be off. it should be set to automatic all the time or if you get the firebox too hot with out the blower on it could damage the blower.
 
Hi...

I haven't had that experience. This past weekend I ran the stove all weekend for the 1st time. Sat night the stove did a lot of ticking...but nothing like you describe...i just chalked it up to the stove really being used for an extended period and getting as hot as it's been. If I notice it I'll post back. I love that stove! For the 1st time using it more like i plan to over the winter - i was really impressed with the output. Our house was very warm all weekend and had to open the windows a couple times on sunday just cause it was a bit much...if opening the windows from time to time this winter is going to be my biggest issue - i'm going to be very happy!
 
Try removing the top panel and look at the connection between the stove and the liner pipe. If it is not lined up properly and seated, you can get air pulling in that can cause a harmonic noise.
 
My Hampton is basically the same stove...if its not to operating temp I get the same noise...leave it open a lil bit longer
 
Thanks everone for responding. It doesn't seem to be a problem with it not being heated up enough, as it happens even when its been going for a few hours. I'm trying to reach the wholesaler here now to see if he knows anything more. The noise is harmonic, like when you wet your finger and run it around the rim of a wine glass.
 
BobNorman said:
Thanks everone for responding. It doesn't seem to be a problem with it not being heated up enough, as it happens even when its been going for a few hours. I'm trying to reach the wholesaler here now to see if he knows anything more. The noise is harmonic, like when you wet your finger and run it around the rim of a wine glass.

I have the same stove and have had this noise since it was installed in Sept. I have described it just as you have and beleive it to be an internal stove problem but to date have not found a solution. Please let me know what you find and I will do the same!
 
Well its two years on, the stove was replaced in the Fall of 2009 (due to a weld failure inside), and I still get this noise. A friend's father has the same stove, and got the noise for the first year or so, then it went away... mine however has not. Any new suggestions??
 
I'd be using a mechanic's stethoscope to see if I could find the part that is vibrating. Depending on what is vibrating and where in the stove you may have different options. If it's one piece against another, then you could try lubricating where they touch with graphite. If it is a solid piece vibrating on it's own you may be able to use a piece of firebrick or similar to set on it, against it, wedge it, etc to stop it from moving at it's fundemental frequency.

Is this in a fireplace or a free stander? If it's a free stander this will be easier and I'd also be checking for air leaks around stove piping, an outside air kit, a secondary or tertiary air opening, etc that may be able to be slightly manipulated to prevent it from whistling when air gets pulled through it.

pen
 
I have that same stove and experienced a howl when I closed the air down. What I found was there is an EPA hole that allows air to be sucked in. (to maintain a minimum burn I would guess) I have a tall chimney and a strong draft. When I blocked that hole my problem went away. This is a known and common problem with these stoves, I don't know why Regency doesn't address it.
Slide out your fan assembly, get down low and you will see a hole on the right side. Block this hole with whatever (some have used a refrigerator magnet) and your problem should be solved.
 
The problem with Diesel's suggestion is that you are altering the way the stove behaves so I'd suggest you proceed cautiously there.

If it is a square "hole" and it is whisteling I'd perhaps try taking a piece of metal flashing and making it into a circular shape and sticking in it. Maybe changing the shape would reduce the whistle w/out changing the burn characteristics.

pen
 
Great tip Diesel. First answer that I've seen that explains it, and I'm glad to hear I'm not alone! But why was the hole there in the first place? Is it needed? What does it do?

I sort of agree with Pen, I'd be a little reluctant to change things, however the sound is REALLY irritating. Maybe I'll take pen's suggestion and try modifying the shape of the hole. If I knew that there was no problem with covering it , that would be my preference though.. Is there a way to get some info on it from Regency?

Bob
 
BobNorman said:
Great tip Diesel. First answer that I've seen that explains it, and I'm glad to hear I'm not alone! But why was the hole there in the first place? Is it needed? What does it do?

I wondered about that too. But after taking care of the problem (2 years ago) I have had no adverse affects. I would suggest you try a temporary fix (such as a magnet) and see how it goes.
 
You're hearing a harmonic that's crated by the sharp metal edge
on the inside surface where the EPA hole has punched thru the stove body.
I've had some success with a small fine-toothed rattail file.
You need to be able to remove the burr from the drilling operation.
Either the machine operator didn't deburr the hole or didn't deburr
it properly.
If you know somebody who works as a machinist, maybe he has what's
known in the trade as a "peeler" for deburring holes...
It's basically a three-sided file with the teeth ground off
leaving a concave surface & VERY sharp edges that are used
to "peel" the burrs left over from machining operations...
 
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I forgot that my stove did this at one time. I pulled the fan housing off and put a small magnet over the hole. It most definitely did not change how the stove burned.
 
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