Removing old window motor on a chev truck?

[begreen]

Got a 1994 Chevrolet G30 van with a dead driver's side window motor. I have the door panels off and have confirmed that the switch is ok and voltage is getting to the motor. Currently the window is in the fully up position. Has anyone replaced one of these? Any tricks or special techniques for removal?

 

[DougA]

I did that on a Blazer and it was pretty easy once you got everything off. I picked up a used one at a wreckers.
There are lots of youtubes but I did it without back then since it was before youtube times.
You may have to drill out a rivet and replace it, not sure.

 

[begreen]

My truck is a bit older than what is covered in the youtube videos so I didn't find one specific. I am not close to a wrecker so probably will replace with new. The motor is not expensive. The main thing that would be helpful to understand is how to remove the regulator/motor assembly once it is free. Did you tape the window in the up position?

 

[DougA]

It's been awhile (20 yrs) so I really can't remember much. I would think most of the chevy parts are very similar in design. They seemed to stick with the same stuff, whether it was good or bad. I seem to remember that the motor was riveted onto the door frame and once that was drilled, you unhook and it pops out with some wrist twisting. I do not recall taping the window up but you could do that by putting a strap over the door frame, then taping the strap to the glass on both sides. That way, you won't have tape guck on the paint, just the glass.

I would unhook the connector and plug in the new one first to make sure it works. Lots of times I have put the meter on something (like power seats) and the power is there and the motor is fine but the computers prevent stuff from working.

 

[rustynut]

they have a couple of different regulator styles that have been used. I suspect you have the unit with the large sector gear?
If so you can probably just swap out the motor if you can find one. If you have the newer style with the aircraft cables you
would be best to replace the entire regulator as these cables only last so long..... Not sure when they switched to the cable style
but i'm thinking somewhere in that time frame. If you have the gear style you may be able to replace the motor w/o removing the
entire regulator. good luck with finding the motor, or maybe rebuilding the original ?
rn

 

[begreen]

It's been awhile (20 yrs) so I really can't remember much. I would think most of the chevy parts are very similar in design. They seemed to stick with the same stuff, whether it was good or bad. I seem to remember that the motor was riveted onto the door frame and once that was drilled, you unhook and it pops out with some wrist twisting. I do not recall taping the window up but you could do that by putting a strap over the door frame, then taping the strap to the glass on both sides. That way, you won't have tape guck on the paint, just the glass.

I would unhook the connector and plug in the new one first to make sure it works. Lots of times I have put the meter on something (like power seats) and the power is there and the motor is fine but the computers prevent stuff from working.

Thanks for the tips Doug. No worry about computers on this old dogger.

 

[begreen]

they have a couple of different regulator styles that have been used. I suspect you have the unit with the large sector gear?
If so you can probably just swap out the motor if you can find one. If you have the newer style with the aircraft cables you
would be best to replace the entire regulator as these cables only last so long..... Not sure when they switched to the cable style
but i'm thinking somewhere in that time frame. If you have the gear style you may be able to replace the motor w/o removing the
entire regulator. good luck with finding the motor, or maybe rebuilding the original ?
rn

I suspect this is old-school gear-based on the parts picture. You can buy the motor alone. I have thought of checking the motor out. Often it's just a case of brushes.

 

[DougA]

Mine used to jam in the up position and worked great for a few weeks if you gave it a whack with a hammer.

 

[Jags]

Can't comment on the motor/regulator part, but for holding a window up, I have found that shims work quite well. A couple of shims on the outside tapped into place makes for a pretty sturdy stop.

 

[semipro]

I recall what Doug recalls. You have some rivets you need to drill out that hold the regulator to the door and you need to hold the window up. I believe you remove the regulator and motor as an assembly and then replace the motor. I seem to recall two bolts that held the motor to the regulator. You also need to watch out for the counterbalance spring when you remove the motor from the regulator so it doesn't recoil and snag you.

Before you do any of this though I would tap on the brush end of the motor while energizing it with the switch. The motors are infamous for poor brush contact if left sitting for some time. In 15 years as a mechanic I "fixed" many simply by beating on the indoor door panel while energizing the motor.

Edit: I always held the window up by inserting an object through the inside door skiin so that the metal edge at the bottom of the glass sat on top of it.

 

[begreen]

Good tips folks. Yes, the vehicle has sat for a long period of time. I tapped a lot with a hammer and it would click with the switch activation, but no movement.
I decided to bite the bullet and try to remove it. An hour and a lot of choice words later I had it out. There is a damn vertical brace in there that you can only detach the bottom bolt. The top appears to be welded in. This brace makes it hell to remove the motor/regulator assembly. Also, no rivets, but at the top there are two studs that snag on everything coming out. The brace makes this worse. I can see why they eliminated those studs. I may too if possible and just bolt it through.

PS: this motor appears to have been used on every GM product from Cadillac to Cavalier at some point in the 80-90s.

 

[Dr.Faustus]

get the new part first, and have a look at it. It is often (at least for me) easier to see how to get the old part out by looking at the new one.

 

[begreen]

OK, job done after a couple scrapes, cuts and a proliferation of profanity. The brace is the window channel. There is a hidden bolt at the top on the side. New motor works great.