Stove gasket failed. Need to pick up a new one and get it installed. This time I am thinking of using red RTV. Have not used it before. What is the minimum setup time for the RTV before the stove can be put back into action?
RTV setup time
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Should say on the package, but it typically has a 24 hour cure time under appropriate temperatures. This stuff is usually only rated up to like 650 or so though. Seems kinda low for a stove. But I'm more of a mechanic, and less of a stove-smith
(broken link removed to https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-high-temp-red-rtv-silicone-gasket/)
Heat makes it setup. I have used black RTV on mine, built a fire & closed the door -- let it set up w/ a low fire. This is the 3rd yr. on the gasket, though I do have one spot on the bottom that needs a re-glue. Next summer my door is getting "majored".
New gasket, new glass & gasket, hinge re-worked.
Using as an adhesive is a bit different than automotive uses where the RTV gasket needs to set-up before having oil etc. attack it. As to temperature, the stove door really does not get as hot as you'd think behind the gasket in particular. The glass gets way hotter than the outside perimeter of the door.
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jetsam
Minister of Fire
Never used it on a stove, but I've used Honda FIPG and various brands of RTV silicone to gasket various things and put them to work after 24 hours.
I once, in a pinch, gasketed a snowblower transaxle with RTV silocone and put it to work within 1 hour, but the gasket failed more or less immediately.
(My "gasket" means "the silicone is the gasket", not "the silicone is holding on a gasket".)
I once, in a pinch, gasketed a snowblower transaxle with RTV silocone and put it to work within 1 hour, but the gasket failed more or less immediately.
(My "gasket" means "the silicone is the gasket", not "the silicone is holding on a gasket".)
I usually tell people to give it about 6 hours. I also don't like to leave the door closed when the silicon is wet I have seen to many doors glued shut that way it doesn't take much ooze out to cause a problem
Those temps don't necessarily hold true through all silicone I know we have some black that goes up to 600 and we have gotten some red that was only 500
24 hours
I always close the door to let it set. If your not that sloppy with it, you should not have a problem with closing the door to let it set.
I always close the door to let it set. If your not that sloppy with it, you should not have a problem with closing the door to let it set.
The black Permatex "Silicone Adhesive" that I used (because I had a tube open) is only rated @ 450F. Even though it has served me well, I would recommend getting the higher rated RTV (& will next time).
Yeah I think I would go higher than that for on the door. We usually use 800 degree red.
Shouldnt no but I have had it happen even after closing it then opening to check for any oozing out. So I dont do it that way anymore. I really hate using a pry bar on a customers stove to open the door because of something I did.
Thank you sir. I recall you using this. I will get going on it. Of course it has to happen on the coldest day so far this winter, but I will give it at least 12 hrs.. Time to burn some electrons in a hurry.
If you do get some ooze out from under the gasket, it will burn off. Don't worry. Anything under the gasket will be protected and hold just fine. I messed with so many gaskets & adhesives on the old Summit, it ended up being a good learning experience.
unless it glues the door to the stove you will be fine yes. It can and does happen sometimes.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
I used copper RTV and the little bit of spooged RTV is not offensively RED and the copper rtv is still squishy after lots of use. The NC30 came with black RTV from the factory and it has hardened up but still works as an adhesive. I don't recall the higher heat copper costing much or any more than black.
When you push the gasket into the bed of RTV you can't possibly do as even a job by hand as you could with the door. If that RTV cures with high or low spots then the gasket will have high and low spots. Soooooo, it seems wise to close the door on wet RTV to set the gasket at least.
It is cold but the big problem is the wind. Really makes a difference. We are doing 12 hour top offs with the BK and three hour reloads with the NC30 when I'm home. Have to be sure to pick up the chicken eggs every day or they freeze and break the shells!
Yes absolutly close the door to push the gasket into the silicone. I just dont like to let it closed as the silicone dries.
Go to the parts store and look at what they have. I think the copper stuff might say something like "use for exhaust systems." If you're like me, you will have to go to every parts store, just to make sure you are not missing out on a superior product. Then you will find that the best product was at the first store, and by the time you get home it will be 12 hrs. later. If you'd have bought at the first store, you would be firing up already! 
12 hrs. should be plenty...it gets tacky in an hour or less. I would close the door on it for the tightest seal against the door channel, with wax paper as insurance. Shouldn't need it though...you don't need a ton of sealant in that groove.
Never fails!
12 hrs. should be plenty...it gets tacky in an hour or less. I would close the door on it for the tightest seal against the door channel, with wax paper as insurance. Shouldn't need it though...you don't need a ton of sealant in that groove.
My only experience with RTV on a stove gasket was with blue Permatex. I got it for its high te.p rating. Big mistake. It set up like stone and was near impossible to remove. I checked and Permatex red is rated at 650F. If that works well for holding AND removal then that is what I'll use. Heading into Seattle for the proper gasket material now.
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Wow...............when my stove gasket pulls loose in the winter, I just put a little RTV under the rope, close the door on it & keep 'er cooking 'til next summer. Works for me. You might be better off buying a new tube of higher rated 750-800F silicone, even though I got away with using some lower temp stuff. (I think some of you all are getting a little carried away with that RTV application if you are having "spillage" -- does not take much to adhere well).
Always used Rutland Gasket Cement for our stoves for decades.
Is Red RTV better: does it harden ? Difficult to scrape off when dry ? Will it hold the gasket well ? Cleanup easier ? Fast dry ?
The black gasket cement is a serious PITA to use; need to to be warmed below 50 F, it always gets in my nose ( why when I'm using it, do I have to scratch the nose ? ), and it dries in the tubes ( yes, cap on tight, and in a sealed plastic bag ).
Suggestions from experienced ones welcome.
Is Red RTV better: does it harden ? Difficult to scrape off when dry ? Will it hold the gasket well ? Cleanup easier ? Fast dry ?
The black gasket cement is a serious PITA to use; need to to be warmed below 50 F, it always gets in my nose ( why when I'm using it, do I have to scratch the nose ? ), and it dries in the tubes ( yes, cap on tight, and in a sealed plastic bag ).
Suggestions from experienced ones welcome.
Not that it's super relevant, but the door gasket material in the oil boiler refractory replacement kit I installed this Fall had adhesive already on the gasket-you just peeled it off.
One thing is not to go by the color of the RTV but go by the specs. Different manufacturers do different colors and some different colors in various formulations. I have always been fascinated by the various heat ranges on 100% silicone. It all vaporizes between six and eight hundred degrees.
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