Scored some free wood after the storm!

[Jonathco]

Well, I am just starting to get into wood processing for my wood stove, but off to a good start! We had storms roll through Michigan and it took out some trees in town. Some guys from church and I help folks in the community clean up down trees, and I got several trailer loads of free wood!

Wild cherry, locust, popular, and a bit of box elder. Time to start processing it for 2024/2025.

 

[mpaul]

Knowing you are just getting into wood processing, I’ll tell you it’s not easy to get ahead. The pile you have there is definitely an awesome start though. Depending on species and if the tree was dead standing will dictate whether the wood can be burned in years 24/25. If that’s a photo of your front yard I encourage you to get that split and build a solar kiln around it if you want to use it that soon.

 

[Jonathco]

Excellent advice, thank you. Yes, that's my yard. I've got seasoned slab hardwood that I bought for this winter, and I am currently working toward the goal of getting 2-3 years worth of wood built up. The cherry was dead standing; the rest was not.

Everyone keep's telling me the beauty of heating with wood is that it heats you twice! 😂

 

[thewoodlands]

Well, I am just starting to get into wood processing for my wood stove, but off to a good start! We had storms roll through Michigan and it took out some trees in town. Some guys from church and I help folks in the community clean up down trees, and I got several trailer loads of free wood!

Wild cherry, locust, popular, and a bit of box elder. Time to start processing it for 2024/2025.View attachment 314812

That will keep you busy. Do what you can when you can, sooner or later you'll be at that 2 to 3 years ahead.

 

[NickW]

The cherry, box elder and poplar should be ready for 24/25. Locust probably not. Stack them separately if possible.

I personally segregate wood in 3 categories when stacking - "crap" wood (low BTU), "everyday" hardwood, and premium hardwood. Locust is a premium, cherry an everyday and the others low BTU (for me). There are BTU charts out there with drying times (approximate).

That looks like a good start, nice score!

 

[bigealta]

Great start, i'll suggest next time you go out with the clean up gang bring a couple pieces of sidewalk chalk, or the like, and a tape measure. Mark everything to be cut at the length you want for your stove. Mine takes 18". Make marks down each branch (branches big enough for good size splits) and log and ask the guys to cut on the marks. This will save you a ton of time back home. Goal is to have the pile ready to split and right next to where you are stacking it.

 

[Ashful]

Once word gets around (work, church, your kids' sports teams) that you will take down and haul away trees, you'll have more free wood coming at you than you'll want or need. At least that's how it's been here.

I will take down trees for friends and haul away the trunk, but I always have some conditions:

1. Must be good wood, not rotten infested trash
2. Aside from the odd shed (with owner's consent), it cannot be in a location where it could hit a structure while dropping it. Even pro's make mistakes, and that's why they carry insurance for this. I don't have that insurance.
3. I will haul away the trunk, and maybe even help you cut up the larger branch wood, but disposing of branch wood is your responsibility. Most here can burn it in their yard, or haul it to a local mulching facility.

 

[Jonathco]

The cherry, box elder and poplar should be ready for 24/25. Locust probably not. Stack them separately if possible.

I personally segregate wood in 3 categories when stacking - "crap" wood (low BTU), "everyday" hardwood, and premium hardwood. Locust is a premium, cherry an everyday and the others low BTU (for me). There are BTU charts out there with drying times (approximate).

That looks like a good start, nice score!

@NickW , This is really helpful to know. I didn't relize there was such a different in hardwoods. Also, I have access to a lot more locust through a family member, so this was super helpful to learn!

Great start, i'll suggest next time you go out with the clean up gang bring a couple pieces of sidewalk chalk, or the like, and a tape measure. Mark everything to be cut at the length you want for your stove. Mine takes 18". Make marks down each branch (branches big enough for good size splits) and log and ask the guys to cut on the marks. This will save you a ton of time back home. Goal is to have the pile ready to split and right next to where you are stacking it.

@bigealta, Excellent suggestion!

Once word gets around (work, church, your kids' sports teams) that you will take down and haul away trees, you'll have more free wood coming at you than you'll want or need. At least that's how it's been here.

I will take down trees for friends and haul away the trunk, but I always have some conditions:

1. Must be good wood, not rotten infested trash
2. Aside from the odd shed (with owner's consent), it cannot be in a location where it could hit a structure while dropping it. Even pro's make mistakes, and that's why they carry insurance for this. I don't have that insurance.
3. I will haul away the trunk, and maybe even help you cut up the larger branch wood, but disposing of branch wood is your responsibility. Most here can burn it in their yard, or haul it to a local mulching facility.

Wise words, @Ashful. Sounds like a good plan for not doing needless work and keeping the main thing, the main thing.

 

[Jonathco]

I have 10 big bundles of mixed hardwood slabs that I need to cut down and stack. Built a simple, folding sawbuck that should help speed things up.

 

[Ashful]

Nice! Yeah, an hour or three on setup can save tens of hours on processing, over the next few seasons. Somewhere in this forum is a jig I had built for cutting something like 30 cords of split and stacked wood down from 22” lengths to 18”. I could do a single pass on something like 1/4 cord at a time, in that simple rig.

 

[thewoodlands]

Nice! Yeah, an hour or three on setup can save tens of hours on processing, over the next few seasons. Somewhere in this forum is a jig I had built for cutting something like 30 cords of split and stacked wood down from 22” lengths to 18”. I could do a single pass on something like 1/4 cord at a time, in that simple rig.

Is this the one?

Splits too long

Get the battery powered. These batteries last a long time. Now that you will be a Chain Saw Man, you might find a tree in the woods, or on the side of the road, that you want to cut up for firewood.

www.hearth.com

 

[bigealta]

Nice load there. Not sure how i'd process that though. I'd be inclined to mark lengths and cut right on those piles but that of course can be dangerous.

 

[Jonathco]

Nice load there. Not sure how i'd process that though. I'd be inclined to mark lengths and cut right on those piles but that of course can be dangerous.

I considered this, but it's metal strapped in several spots and I'd hate to hit that with my chain. If I can pull the straps out, I may try this.

 

[bigealta]

I considered this, but it's metal strapped in several spots and I'd hate to hit that with my chain. If I can pull the straps out, I may try this.

Yeah that should be straight forward, the big risk though is kickback from the tip of the bar. That can be very very dangerous indeed!
I've "tested" a few "controlled" kickbacks with the top of the bar tip and it's incredible how hard and fast the kickback is.

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[Ashful]

Is this the one?

Splits too long

Get the battery powered. These batteries last a long time. Now that you will be a Chain Saw Man, you might find a tree in the woods, or on the side of the road, that you want to cut up for firewood.

www.hearth.com

Yes, that's the initial prototype. There was a much improved and slightly enlarged version that followed the one in that photo, but following the same basic principle.

I considered this, but it's metal strapped in several spots and I'd hate to hit that with my chain. If I can pull the straps out, I may try this.

Bigealta has the right idea. This could be done, but just like my saw rig in that link above, you'd want a bar long enough to keep the nose out of the bundle. With multiple pieces bundled together, they will tend to want to pinch on the bar, due to non-uniformity and pressure applied by the strapping. This is no problem, if the bar is long enough to keep the nose out of the bundle.

We all have varying budgets and priorities, but I can tell you now, that I'd be using this as an excuse to buy a bigger saw and bar. Start practicing now, "honey, I need an MS660 and a 32-inch bar for cutting those bundles, but look at all the money we're saving!"

 

[Jonathco]

We all have varying budgets and priorities, but I can tell you now, that I'd be using this as an excuse to buy a bigger saw and bar. Start practicing now, "honey, I need an MS660 and a 32-inch bar for cutting those bundles, but look at all the money we're saving!"

I have no issues with my Echo Timber Wolf, but I am already working toward excuses to buy a Stihl Pro series saw.

 

[jackpine savage63]

I have cut a lot of smaller wood like those slabs over the years on a table with a chop saw.

Easier on your back, and saves the chainsaw for larger stuff... just a thought...

 

[joop]

guess i'll have to start going to church.can't find any free wood what so ever lol

 

[Ashful]

guess i'll have to start going to church.can't find any free wood what so ever lol

My prior church had a very large wood lot. It became my primary source of firewood for a few years.

 

[Jonathco]

I have cut a lot of smaller wood like those slabs over the years on a table with a chop saw.

Easier on your back, and saves the chainsaw for larger stuff... just a thought...

View attachment 315118

This is a good idea! I may try this on some of the smaller slabwood.

 

[Jsjac1]

I used to get slabs dropped off by a sawmill. I would just cut them up in the bundles.
At one point we had about 20-25 cords of slabs cut and stacked.
We had an outdoor wood boiler at that time.
Now we have a wood stove in the house.
We went for 12-14 cords of wood per year to 3-4 cords and 140 gallons of oil for heat and hot water per year.

 

[Jonathco]

I put my two young sons to work today splitting some older mullbery and apple I've had laying around for a few years. It's not the greatest quality, but it'll do for a shoulder season. One son is 6 and the other 12. I gave them a few splitting wedges and a 3 lb and 8 lb sledge hammer respectively, and they worked together and did this in an afternoon, all by themselves! Pretty impressed to be honest. Good kids.

 

[bigealta]

The Apple is good wood to burn, mulberry is pretty good too. That is nice work from your kids. I think the 12 year old could be ready for a splitting maul. Get him a light one, like a 4lb one. You may also enjoy a light maul. That's what i've used for 40+ years. it's actually the same maul head i used as a kid. (just a bunch of new handles)

 

[Jonathco]

The Apple is good wood to burn, mulberry is pretty good too. That is nice work from your kids. I think the 12 year old could be ready for a splitting maul. Get him a light one, like a 4lb one. You may also enjoy a light maul. That's what i've used for 40+ years. it's actually the same maul head i used as a kid. (just a bunch of new handles)

I need to get a maul actually. Any brand/model recomendations?

 

[Ashful]

I need to get a maul actually. Any brand/model recomendations?

A lot of people have switched from mauls to splitting axes, with the X25 and X27 from Fiskars being the most popular in that class. I never did, but I did switch from a classic 8 lb. maul with sledge handle to a slimmer 6 lb. maul with recurve axe handle, and kept the thing sharper than most. Usually best to have a few options, since the tool that works for one wood is often not ideal for another. If you don't have hydraulics, having a sledge and a few wedges can also be key, for busting up anything too gnarly and tough for the maul.