Greetings.
My name is Jim, and I recently purchased a Buck FS-21 for my ranch home. I have no basement, so it is being placed in the "open area" end of the house, near the side door. This is pretty much the middle of the house, offset 4'. The plan is to go straight up thru the attic with the pipe. On this end of the house there are scissor trusts, so there is approx 32" between the ceiling and roof. The ceiling is cathedral as well.
I supplied the local dealer with all the info in order to purchase the correct lengths of whatever pipe I needed. I was supplied with -
1) - 6" stove adapter - part # 6DCC-SA-BK
1) - 36" pipe section - part # 6DCC-36-BK
1) - 48" pipe section - part # 6DCC-48-BK
1) - 6TLCSPA - Stove Pipe Adapter
1) - 6TLCCSS - Cathedral Ceiling Box
1) - 6TLC48
1) - 6TLC24
1) - 6TLC6
Raincap and Flashing
I have asked the dealer questions, and I have also spoke to the technical support person at Hart and Cooley. My first question was in regard to the stove adapter. When I have this in place with the 24" and 48" pipe on top, the top section is within one inch on the lower side from touching the ceiling. I suppose this is ok, and still low enough for the cathedral box to hang down below the ceiling, not sure yet. However, if I don't use the Stove Adapter, then the top of the pipe has about 6" clearence from the ceiling, which to me looks like the cathedral box would hang down more below the ceiling.
The tech rep at Hart & Cooley tells me the Stove Adapter MUST be installed onto the collar of the stove, because this is what it is made for. Supplied instuctions say that it can be eliminated from installation if the pipe section will fit onto the stove collar. The difference between the Stove Adapter (SA) and 6DCC Pipe Sections is that the SA has a reinforcement (?) ring between the inner and outer wall at both ends, and the 6DCC Pipe Section just has the reinforcement ring at the top of each section. This ring that's between the inner and outer walls of the pipe has holes in it for allowing the heat to vent up through each section of pipe.
- Should I use the Stove Adapter or just install the 6DCC pipe section directly to the stove collar?
Something else I noticed is that there are three holes on the stove collar for fastening the pipe to. I can get one hole to line up with the pipe, and it is the front hole. The other two holes are either off left to right, or too high. In order to get a screw in them, I have to lift or tweak the pipe, depending on which hole, and this doesn't allow the pipe to sit flush on the stove, or it alters the round shape of the pipe.
- Do I grind a little bit of material off the end of the pipe in the back, to allow it to sit flush on top of the stove, or is one screw enough? Drilling new holes would be a challenge since the holes are close enough to the holes in the pipe. I'm afraid the bit would jump into the holes that are already in the stove collar.
With the pipe just resting on the stove now, it is not plumb. Grinding material off the back edge would help this, but I want to make sure this is the correct action to take.
These are the only issues I'm concerned with at this time. I plan on installing sometime in the next few days, depending on the weather. I work for the county road department, and the weather is not cooperating as of the last couple weeks. It's either frigid cold, or I'm working overtime pushing snow or treating the roads. Any help is grately appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
- Jim
My name is Jim, and I recently purchased a Buck FS-21 for my ranch home. I have no basement, so it is being placed in the "open area" end of the house, near the side door. This is pretty much the middle of the house, offset 4'. The plan is to go straight up thru the attic with the pipe. On this end of the house there are scissor trusts, so there is approx 32" between the ceiling and roof. The ceiling is cathedral as well.
I supplied the local dealer with all the info in order to purchase the correct lengths of whatever pipe I needed. I was supplied with -
1) - 6" stove adapter - part # 6DCC-SA-BK
1) - 36" pipe section - part # 6DCC-36-BK
1) - 48" pipe section - part # 6DCC-48-BK
1) - 6TLCSPA - Stove Pipe Adapter
1) - 6TLCCSS - Cathedral Ceiling Box
1) - 6TLC48
1) - 6TLC24
1) - 6TLC6
Raincap and Flashing
I have asked the dealer questions, and I have also spoke to the technical support person at Hart and Cooley. My first question was in regard to the stove adapter. When I have this in place with the 24" and 48" pipe on top, the top section is within one inch on the lower side from touching the ceiling. I suppose this is ok, and still low enough for the cathedral box to hang down below the ceiling, not sure yet. However, if I don't use the Stove Adapter, then the top of the pipe has about 6" clearence from the ceiling, which to me looks like the cathedral box would hang down more below the ceiling.
The tech rep at Hart & Cooley tells me the Stove Adapter MUST be installed onto the collar of the stove, because this is what it is made for. Supplied instuctions say that it can be eliminated from installation if the pipe section will fit onto the stove collar. The difference between the Stove Adapter (SA) and 6DCC Pipe Sections is that the SA has a reinforcement (?) ring between the inner and outer wall at both ends, and the 6DCC Pipe Section just has the reinforcement ring at the top of each section. This ring that's between the inner and outer walls of the pipe has holes in it for allowing the heat to vent up through each section of pipe.
- Should I use the Stove Adapter or just install the 6DCC pipe section directly to the stove collar?
Something else I noticed is that there are three holes on the stove collar for fastening the pipe to. I can get one hole to line up with the pipe, and it is the front hole. The other two holes are either off left to right, or too high. In order to get a screw in them, I have to lift or tweak the pipe, depending on which hole, and this doesn't allow the pipe to sit flush on the stove, or it alters the round shape of the pipe.
- Do I grind a little bit of material off the end of the pipe in the back, to allow it to sit flush on top of the stove, or is one screw enough? Drilling new holes would be a challenge since the holes are close enough to the holes in the pipe. I'm afraid the bit would jump into the holes that are already in the stove collar.
With the pipe just resting on the stove now, it is not plumb. Grinding material off the back edge would help this, but I want to make sure this is the correct action to take.
These are the only issues I'm concerned with at this time. I plan on installing sometime in the next few days, depending on the weather. I work for the county road department, and the weather is not cooperating as of the last couple weeks. It's either frigid cold, or I'm working overtime pushing snow or treating the roads. Any help is grately appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
- Jim
