Should I buy this used F500 Oslo?

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This is my first post here but have lurked for some time as I'm also shopping for a wood stove. I am not able to post in the classified forum where you put your WTB post, but writing to let you know there is (or was about a month ago) a showroom model (i.e. likely some imperfections) majolica brown F500 at a dealer in Fairfield County CT, for less than 1K. I realize that's a long haul, but just FYI.
Which dealer was that? Preston Trading Post?
 
On to the next one...
Does anyone see anything glaringly wrong with this thing?
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It's looking pretty good to me. Obviously can't know for sure until I see it in person. It's about a 2 hour drive from me, which I don't mind. Basically a one-owner, as the people who are selling it said it came with their house which they bought 3 years ago and they have only used it a handful of times. Comes with the paperwork from original purchase in 2005. They're asking 1800 which I think is decent because includes the heat shield and a bunch of class A pipe, some seemingly single wall pipe, the steamer, screen and fireplace tools. Probably won't use a lot of it but I can sell some of it in that case. Might try to talk them down a couple hundred bucks when we show up but I'm feeling like this might be the one.

Install question - if I'm installing it in front of a brick chimney with a thimble, can I go minimum clearance even with single wall pipe, or do you still need double wall in front of a non-combustible surface?
 
Looks like a blue-black enamel version which is a personal favorite. FWIW, the stove sold for about that price in 2005. I think a bit of a discount is worth discussing first. The class A pipe is a gamble depending on the condition and brand. The steamer is a visual, worth $100 used. See if they will take $1500 considering the drive and all.
 
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Also let me know if there are other specific photos that I should request!
Overall is appears to be in good condition with low miles in spite of its age. It would have been nice for them to completely clean out the firebox to see all the grate's corners. A straight-on, inside view that shows the whole baffle would be good so that you can look for warping.
 
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Overall is appears to be in good condition with low miles in spite of its age. It would have been nice for them to completely clean out the firebox to see all the grate's corners. A straight-on, inside view that shows the whole baffle would be good so that you can look for warping.
I'll get those!
 
Nothing jumps out at me. 1800 seems fair. Clearances are just to the nearest combustible. So if you are certain there are none near within listed specs you are good if it meets single wall it Will also meet double wall distances. I’d use double wall if at all possible.
 
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Nothing jumps out at me. 1800 seems fair. Clearances are just to the nearest combustible. So if you are certain there are none near within listed specs you are good if it meets single wall it Will also meet double wall distances. I’d use double wall if at all possible.

I was thinking of using single wall just to the thimble (4' or so) just for the extra radiant heat. Is double better for draft? Chimney will have new insulated liner (about 16-20'). It's been a loooooong time since I installed a stove, and probably didn't do it exactly right that time...
Also, I've read a ton, including all the manuals, and it seems like the F500 just needs ember protection on the floor. Is that true? I'm planning on ripping out about 1.5" of flooring (currently a few layers of wood) and making a tiled pad that is flush with the surrounding floor.
 
Is this going to be a fireplace install or freestanding with a new chimney system? If a fireplace hearth installion, double-check the lintel height to make sure there is clearance for the flue exit at 28.5".

If it's to be installed on the hearth of a fireplace, I would buy it without the steamer or piping and offer $1500.
 
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Well, it's kinda neither. My house is very old (1890) and thus has many layers of changes. Currently the place where the fireplace used to be is covered in drywall (which I am going to remove). The gas appliances have been using the chimney but we are switching to a direct vent boiler and water heater. I cut a hole and looked behind the drywall and the old fireplace opening has been enclosed with concrete. My plan is to put a thimble into the brick chimney a little ways up the wall and then tile below that, to cover up the ugly concrete patch, and then inset a tiled hearth pad flush with the surrounding wood floor. I will post pics and ask more questions when I get to this point-- I'm planning WAY ahead, as I'm not even starting this project until the spring.
 
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Planning is good. Does the chimney have a clay liner currently or just raw brick?

Good luck with the stove.
 
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Planning is good. Does the chimney have a clay liner currently or just raw brick?

Good luck with the stove.

Honestly, I'm not sure yet. I did have an inspector look at the chimney when I bought the house 10 years ago, just to say that it was okay, and it currently has some kind of a metal liner that the boiler and water heater are venting through. I will be able to answer every question you could possibly have once I start ripping things apart! I'm trying very hard not to start ripping things up until after the heating season is over, so I don't open up unnecessary drafts...

I'm probably going to do most (if not all) of the work myself, but I'll at least get a legitimate chimney inspection before I start anything. That being said, I am definitely going to do everything to the letter of the code. I don't mess around with fire safety stuff.

I'm very excited to have a stove back in my life, and I appreciate having this community as my guide!
 
Welp, hard part (getting it in the truck in the drizzle) is over!

Next question -
I was planning to store it in the house because I'm worried about moisture . Is that silly? Is it fine to store a stove in the garage for 6-8 months? It would be out of the elements but I just worry about humidity.

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Enamel or regular
 
Get it good and dry and I’d probably keep it well wrapped with a bucket damp rid wrapped with it in the garage. But it’s highly likely (like all the dogs that I have brought home) it would end up in my bedroom with a sad face want want to sleep in bed with me and who can say no;)

Chances maybe higher you drop something on it a. Chip it while working on the install than in the garage.
 
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I decided to keep it in the house after all, but it was more to do with ease of unloading and less moving overall.
Gave it a little wipe down and I'm pretty happy about its condition overall. Gaskets seem good, did the dollar bill test. I think all it needs is the little wooden knob for the handle of the side door.

Can't wait to crank this baby up next year!
Thanks everyone for all your feedback.

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I decided to keep it in the house after all, but it was more to do with ease of unloading and less moving overall.
Gave it a little wipe down and I'm pretty happy about its condition overall. Gaskets seem good, did the dollar bill test. I think all it needs is the little wooden knob for the handle of the side door.

Can't wait to crank this baby up next year!
Thanks everyone for all your feedback.

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I’m jealous. Looks nice! You have a woodshed? If not out that higher on The list than you think it should be!
 
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I’m jealous. Looks nice! You have a woodshed? If not out that higher on The list than you think it should be!
Yes! A very good point.
The woodshed is the first immediate task. My partner and I have both heated with wood before, so we know the importance of dry wood!
He is also an arborist, so we don't have to worry about supply. We're waiting on delivery of a new splitter, and we should have the woodshed up in the next couple of weeks so we can start stacking for next fall. We do have some already dry wood under tarps that we use for backyard fires, but we're prepping to ramp it up!
 
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